1945-1969 Page 3 of 5

Click here for Official Homepage of Kunsan City Hall

Post-WWII Period (Allied Occupation):

Acknowledgement: Thanks to Dr. Fred Ottoboni of Reno, Nevada for providing the additional information of Kunsan Aerodrome. Thanks to Lt. Col. Robert Grenig , USA, Ret., of Scottsdale, Arizona for his reminiscences as to the disposition of some of these Japanese structures.

In A History of the Korean People by Andrew C. Hahn, South Korea is described as being "in economic chaos after the collapse of Japanese rule and partition of the country. Before the division of Korea, the south had been primarily an agricultural region, producing 63 percent of the nation's food grains, and containing most of the country's light industry and about 24 percent of heavy industry."

Almost all electric power had been generated by the hydroelectric plants on the Yalu and other rivers (with only 0.5 percent in the south) and the entire supply of chemical fertilizer came from the Japanese-established plant at Hungnam on the northeast coast. When the northern supply of chemical fertilizer stopped, farm production in south declined sharply, creating a serious food shortage. Because of the lack of power, many industrial plants were shut down.)

Basically, the country's money was worthless as the Japanese issued bank notes in enormous amounts before the end of their colonial rule...and the trend continued after they were gone. The "yen" was the monetary unit in 1946 as Korea transitioned to the "won".

Many factories in the south were closed due to the shortage of skilled workers, technicians, electric power, and raw materials, making the economic situation worse. Moreover, the influx of some 1.5 million refugees from China, Manchuria, Japan, and North Korea in 1945-1946 caused additional problems. The rapid population growth increased the housing shortage as well as shortages of essential commodities, resulting in many social problems. As a sense of frustration overwhelmed the people, moral and ethical standards declined.

In 1946, an eyewitness reported: the "situation is getting worse. There is rampant inflation. Consumer goods and coal are virtually nonexistent. Food distribution is inequitable. ... Transportation equipment is breaking down. Unemployment is rising to dangerous proportions. ... Hunger is rapidly spreading and will probably result in starvation in many areas by midsummer."

According to Dr. Fred Ottoboni's book, Korea Between the Wars: A Soldier's Story , the population of Kunsan in 1947 was about 40,000 with unpaved roads and few sidewalks. Most of the buildings were single story wood and mud structures with thatched roofs. There were a few two or three-story concrete buildings decorated with the art-deco style popular in the 1930s. The town had no sewage system and was serviced by "honey" wagons -- carts to haul human sewage for use as fertilizer.

Dr. Ottoboni goes on to comment that the "port area was relatively small and only deep enough to accommodate shallow-draft ships. The port consisted of two or three floating docks, about a dozen single story concrete warehouses, and a small railroad yard. This yard was served by a branch railroad line that connected to the north--south main line at Iri" (Iksan).

Camp Hillenmeyer was established on the site of the old Japanese Kunsan Aerodrome built in 1938. (This camp would later become Kunsan Air Base.) The 63rd Infantry Division was assigned this area to disarm the Japanese, repatriate the Japanese and Koreans, but its toughest job was to establish some semblance of local government -- at which most agree they didn't do a very good job.

During the Occupation years, the American Military Police unit was stationed in a building known as the "KCC" building. They were on permanent guard duty and billeted in a monastery in town. "KCC" stood for "Kunsan Commerce Committee" which dealt with trade and customs issues. This red-brick building is located across from the Kunsan Fire Station near Wolmyong Park. (Go to Kunsan City (1951) . The KCC building is in the center of the picture.)

In 1948, the Americans closed down their operations in Korea and turned Camp Hillenmeyer over to the Korean Constabulary forces (the South Korean Army). According to Dr. Ottoboni's book, Korea Between the Wars -- A Soldier's Story , in February 1948, "F & G Companies are being replaced with Korean Constabulary. About 400 Korean soldiers are going to move into F & G Co's Thursday. They are going to pull guard and other duties that will make it easier on the GI's. The camp is finally going to close up and the 63rd deactivated. In spite of everyting there aren't enough men to hold the camp... P.E. is building boxes like mad as everything has to be crated and shipped out. The place is supposed to be vacant by the end of March."

Kunsan returned to being a poor country town whose primary industries were subsistence farming and coastal fishing. The fertilizer from North Korea had been cut off and electricity from the North was sporadic to non-existent. Famine and pestilence was the norm...rather than the exception. (To learn more about the American presence in Kunsan during this period, click on How it was (1938-1951). )

Kunsan Street Scenes near Wolmyong Park Click to Enlarge	Kunsan Street Scenes Click to Enlarge
Kunsan Street Scenes Click to Enlarge	Camp Hillenmeyer Click to Enlarge

Korean War Period:

Fall of Kunsan City The outbreak of hostilities totally disrupted the lives of the Kunsan citizenry who were forced to flee southward from the North Korean invaders. Already a desperately poor town after WWII, the Korean Conflict would only increase the suffering of the people.

When the Korean War broke out on 25 June 1950, Kunsan Aerodrome had no U.S. unit assigned to it. After the initial onslaught by the North Koreans, the first elements of the 24th Infantry Division started arriving in Korea on June 29, 1950 from Japan. They were overrun and the survivors were progressively forced to retreat southward.

The Battle of the Kum River (Kumgang) was waged on 13-14 July 1950 (above Taejon) and many soldiers of the 24th ID were killed or captured. The North Koreans refused to fight a Western-style war, with units neatly connected. The Amerircans rarely knew where their enemy was. It was a new kind of war, with regular People's Army troops often fighting like guerrillas, changing into the white dress of farmers and striking from behind. There were atrocities committed on both sides.

Departing Yesan on 13 July, the N.K. 6th Division started south in two columns and crossed the lower Kum River. The larger force appeared before Kunsan about the time the 3d and 4th Divisions attacked Taejon. The port town fell to the enemy without resistance. The invading North Koreans captured Kunsan Aerodrome on 13 July 1950. The 6th Korean People's Division had swept to the southwest from Taejon toward Iri and Kunsan. The division's two columns united in front of Chonju, thirty miles to the southeast, and quickly reduced that town, which was defended by ROK police. Reports of atrocities and executions were reported in Chonju. At the missionary hospital in Chonju, some nurses were summarily executed.

Taejon fell on 20 July 1950. The outnumbered U.S. forces retreated into the defensive line called the "Pusan Perimeter". The Battle of the Naktong River was fought between August 14-23. In three weeks, the North Koreans had occupied two-thirds of South Korea. The North Koreans attack was stopped at Taegu and the Pusan Perimeter held. On 7 September the North Koreans were escaping over the Nam River near its junction with the Naktong leaving more than two thousand of their dead behind. The outnumbered, outgunned enemy had fought fiercely but to no avail. The Pusan Perimeter was intact. The crisis was over.

Recapture of Kunsan City On September 19, 1950 the US 1st Marine Division, ROK marines and army troops led the "surprise" attack at Inchon. US, ROK, and UN forces launched counterattacks against the North Korean forces from the Pusan Perimeter in order to link with the UN forces at Seoul and Inchon. The North Korean forces were completely shattered.

The 38th Infantry Regiment were in hot pursuit of the fleeing NKPA 6th Division. At Koch'ang the 38th captured a North Korean field hospital. They were advancing faster than the enemy could flee. Next they struck at Chonju, 72 miles away, on 28 September. The 2nd battalion leading, the 38th closed in on Chonju. There was a brief fight and 100 North Koreans were killed, and twice as many surrendered. However, at Chonju the 2d ID ran out of gas and had to wait for resupply. When Task Force Blair (3d Btn, 24th ID) under Maj Melvin R. Blair (Taro leaf), arrived, he unhappily asked permission for units of the 24th to pass through the 38th's lines.

That evening Task Force Blair secured Iri. There, with the bridge across the river destroyed, Blair stopped for the night and Task Force Matthews (1st Btn, 24th ID) under the command of Capt Charles M. Matthews joined it. Kunsan, the port city on the Kum River estuary, fell to the 1st Battalion, 24th Infantry, without opposition at 1300, 30 September. (Note: Other histories credit the 3d Battalion, 24th ID with freeing Kunsan.) (For details of the invasion and military action in the Cholla Province, click on How It Was (1949-1951) )

Fifth Air Force took over Kunsan Air Base in October 1950 and began modifying and rehabilitating existing buildings. By August, construction had progressed to the point that the Air Force assigned the 3rd Bombardment Wing to Kunsan. The 3rd BW moved to the base on August 22, 1951, as Kunsan's first assigned aircraft wing. To learn more of the Kunsan Air Base during the Korean War, click on How It Was (1951-1953)

The Communist Chinese intervention with 200,000 "volunteers" on November 27, 1950 failed to push far enough south to put Kunsan in jeopardy. Though the Chinese and North Koreans recaptured Seoul on January 4, 1951, the UN forces retook Seoul on March 12, 1951.

Life in Kunsan City The hard life of subsistence farming and fishing remained the primary occupations of the citizens. Though there was an American military presence in the Kunsan, the town was off-limits to the soldiers and very little direct monetary benefits flowed from the camp to the town. The times were hard and many refugees moved into the area. According to one report, the population of Kunsan had swelled to 100,000 people.

The Friends (Quaker) Service Unit staffed a clinic in Kunsan from 1953-1958. The humanitarian efforts to relieve the suffering of the refugees in Kunsan were noteworthy and Korea owes a deep debt of gratitude to the Religious Society of Friends (Quakers) who provided the support for the Friends Service Unit in Kunsan. Go to Friends Service Unit for photos of the Friends work. The following is excerpted from the Kunsan Friends Service Site written by (Dr.) John Cornes.

Between December 1950 and January 1951 six million people in South Korea were on the roads as refugees, i.e. one in three of the population. 300 War Orphanages contained 30,000 children. Between 20,000 and 40,000 children had no shelter. Mass starvation was prevented by relief supplies of food from UNCACK (United Nations Civil Assistance Command in Korea), and the spread of diseases was limited and prevented by mass immunisation against Typhus, Typhoid, Paratyphoid, and Small Pox. 66 million innoculations were given by staff attached to UNCACK. However there were a lot of people suffering from Tuberculosis, with over one million people affected, 300,000 with open tuberculosis, and 72,000 dying from this disease each year.

In December 1951 Friends were asked to provide humanitarian relief work and assistance in South Korea, but the United Nations decided all relief should come from the Military. As the situation in South Korea deteriorated the United Nations changed its policy, and in October 1952 they invited civilian organisations to help with their relief efforts.

In November 1952 Professor Jonathan Rhodes from AFSC Philadelphia and Lewis Waddilove from FSC London visited South Korea to see how Friends could help the relief effort. Government Officials took them to most parts of South Korea, and Cholla Pukto and Kunsan were identified as areas where Friends help would be welcome. UNKRA in Tokyo were planning Kunsan as their main port for relief supplies into Korea.

On 16 July 1953 Frank and Patricia Hunt arrived in Korea to start the Friends Service Unit. They were welcomed by Dr. Lee, the Governor of Cholla Pukto, and by the Mayor of Kunsan. The Mayor of Kunsan offered the use of a Korean house, 55 Tae Song Dong, opposite the fruit and vegetable market, as a centre for Friends work in Kunsan. The Kunsan Provincial Hospital offered two basement warehouses for medical and relief supplies, and a store room to sort out supplies of relief clothing and bedding for the refugees.

There were 200,000 refugees in Cholla Pukto, and 33,000 of these refugees were in Kunsan. There were 14 Refugee Camps in Kunsan. 11 recognised by the City Government, housing 5,000 people, were provided with some food. 20,000 other refugees lived in colonies or individually, and did not receive any food. They were mainly North Koreans, mostly Widows and Children. Hainong Camp contained 1,500 Refugees. Jo Chong Camp contained 986 Refugees. In one building 450 people lived in a space 50 feet x 40 feet. Yong Sin, a Japanese house behind City Hall, contained 177 refugees. The Refugee Colonies consisted of houses of mud bricks and straw thatch, and the largest contained over 2,000 people. Many of these people, men and women, worked in the port carrying loads off the ships, and picked up the sweepings of grain from the quays to carry home to eat. There were four other colonies housing 8,000 people in all.

The Hunts visited ten Orphanages. Most of them received grain, clothing, powdered milk, and some fuel. The children looked healthy and well cared for, and most of them attended school. But in the refugee camps and colonies there were many war widows and lots of children, and no school for them to go to.

The Kunsan Provincial Hospital had a partly built Wing left incomplete after the Japanese withdrawal from Korea. The back of the Hospital had been partly destroyed and damaged by American bombing. Unoccupied rooms were filled with sick Refugees, many suffering from severe malnutrition. A lot of the Hospital equipment had been removed by the retreating North Koreans, and a lot was damaged. There was no heating, and no running water. A water tap outside the hospital worked intermittently. Electricity supplies were frequently cut off. Drugs and X-Ray Film were severely limited, and often unavailable. Nearly all the hospital care was provided on an out-patient basis. Beds were only available for paying patients, and in-patient care was provided by the patient's family.

Relief Supplies of Penicillin, Streptomycin, Multivitamins, Drums of Powdered Milk, Soya Bean Flour, Clothing, and Bedding shipped out by The American Friends Service Committee arrived in Kunsan on October 22nd, 1953. On October 26 a small team of doctors, nurses, and a physiotherapist from the United States, Ireland, Sweden, Scotland and England started to work with and help the Korean doctors and nurses working in the Provincial Hospital. At the same time a team of social welfare workers from the United States and Norway working with officials from the City Hall and representatives from the refugee camps, orphanages, and local institutions began to assess welfare needs and work out the best way to provide help. With the onset of winter the first priority was to provide warm clothing and bedding, and these were sorted out into suitable bundles by Korean volunteers and distributed strictly according to need as assessed by local officials and our welfare workers. On November 6 we opened our first milk station in the Kuam refugee camp and served hot milk to 180 children. With the help of Korean women volunteers we quickly opened three more serving 1,500 children. Eventually we were providing hot milk and multivitamins to children up to the age of 14 and to pregnant women, a total of 6,800 people every day.

The priority in the Kunsan Provincial Hospital was to treat the sick refugees and their families who had settled into the rooms at the back of the hospital, resettle them in an empty warehouse with washing facilities, and clean up the hospital. Most of the sickness was related to malnutrition and lack of care. After a few weeks of feeding, multivitamins, and careful nursing most of the sick people were able to leave hospital and the few remaining patients with serious illnesses were cared for in a cleaned up medical ward with a nurses duty unit set up and run by the Friends medical team.

During the cold winter months of January and February 1954 the welfare team and the medical team drew up plans to help with the rehabilitation of the refugees and the restoration of medical services at the Kunsan Provincial Hospital. Supplies were requested from America, and essential medical equipment and up-to-date textbooks of medicine and surgery were purchased in Japan.

A building project was started on land provided by the City Hall using building materials supplied by KCAC, the Province of Cholla Pukto, and some provided by the Friends Service Unit. The refugees built their own houses with the materials provided, and the work was supervised by trained Korean builders paid for by the Friends Service Unit. Provision was made for 150 houses.

Schools were started in the refugee camps and the Friends Service Unit supplied educational materials and the money to pay the Korean teachers. Adult Literacy Classes were started for War Widows who could not read or write. A temporary neighbourhood centre was opened for girls and boys, with a small library and art materials provided by the Friends and sports equipment provided by the American Marines. Volley ball and baseball were played. The girls made coloured paperchains, handkerchiefs and school bags, and the boys made pencil cases.

Sewing machines were brought in for War Widows, and they opened sewing shops in the town, altering and mending clothes, and made surgical towels, face masks and gowns for the operating theatre in the Provincial Hospital. We also helped War Widows open a shop for Dry Cleaning, and another for making and selling bean curd. Widows were provided with goats, bees, bee hives, and seeds for planting. In cooperation with UNKRA Friends opened and ran a training school for Nurse Aides at the Provincial Hospital. There were two courses lasting 9 months each. 30 students entered the first course, and 20 entered the second course. 18 of these trainees worked for the hospital after completing their training. This Training School was run by Jean Cornes with the help of a Korean Schoolmaster from North Korea, Augustine J.R.Kang.

Friends restored and re-equipped the Pathology Laboratory in the Provincial Hospital. In cooperation with UNKRA Dr. Ingle Wright ran a training school for student laboratory technicians and provided a full range of laboratory tests for the hospital, including a blood transfusion service.

Dr. Andrew Wiley assisted by Nurse Trudi Wiley and Nurse Rakel Ask ran a T.B. OutPatient Clinic, and an In-Patient service for 50 patients with open tuberculosis. After Dr. Gordon Bancroft arrived in July 1956 family contacts were X-Rayed, and B.C.G. vaccinations were given.

Dr. A. F. MacDonald assisted by Nurse Irene Howard and Nurse Eve Gold ran a medical Out-Patient clinic, and a medical ward for In-Patients. Supplies of drugs, antibiotics, and multivitamins continued to arrive from AFSC in America, and were made available to the hospital pharmacy.

With the help of a Korean craftsman employed by the Friends Service Unit David Ward opened a Physiotherapy Department in the hospital and they made and fitted artificial limbs. There were a large number of people who had lost their arms and legs during and after the war, and it was difficult to meet their needs.

Friends provided an autoclave, sterilisers, surgical instruments, emergency lighting, a closed circuit anaesthetic machine, surgical clothing, towels, gloves, dressings, bandages, plaster of Paris, suture materials. and anaesthetic supplies for the hospital operating theatre. Dr. John Cornes and Nurse Ray Cordner ran a surgical in-patient ward, providing pre- and post-operative care. Dr. John Cornes provided an anaesthetic service for the Korean Surgeons and Gynaecologist, and trained Korean Graduate Nurses in General Anaesthesia.

Friends provided four training posts for young Korean doctors in the Provincial Hospital and set up a medical library for the Doctors and Nurses, with books and journals sent from America, and some bought from Japan. The American Friends Service Committee arranged three visits from senior American Specialists. Post-Graduate classes and surgical demonstrations were provided for Doctors in Kunsan and Kaejong.

Friends started an out-patient service in the hospital for sick children from the orphanages. To care for the really sick children we had to set up our own in-patient unit in the hospital, and employed a House-Mother to look after them. Some of the sick infants were black children who had been abandoned. When they got better our Welfare Staff arranged their adoption by Black families in America, and all were resettled.

Nurse Ann Sealey helped and encouraged the opening of a midwifery service in the Provincial Hospital, and with Dr. Jean Sullivan started ante-natal and post-natal clinics at two centres in the town, Shin Poon Dong and City Hall.

These brief statements conceal the difficulties faced by the Korean Provincial Administration in Chonju, and the Kunsan Officials in City Hall, namely lack of money to pay salaries, and the continuing shortages of grain, fuel, building materials, and medical supplies. In-patient services at the Kunsan Provincial Hospital could only be adequately maintained by the Friends Service Unit paying half of the salaries of the Korean staff, paying for food and fuel during the times of shortage, and by a continuous supply of drugs, dressings, and antibiotics supplied by the American Friends Service Committee through their offices in Philadelphia and Pasadena.

The Friends Service Unit, started in Kunsan by Frank and Pat Hunt, was led and managed by Geof Hemmingway from late 1953 until Autumn 1956, and then by Robert Gray until December 1957, when the work ended. Robert Gray left Kunsan on January 12, 1958.

Fishing continued in much the same fashion as before the war, except that the useage of the Kunsan Port facilities were restricted for military useage. Also key positions and beaches were mined limiting the areas that the boats could be beached at low tide. The fishing villages in Kunsan continued their daily lives much as before.

The floating pontoon docks were restricted to military and civilian relief cargo. The Japanese built-facilities at the port were all commandeered for American useage. The KCC building became the Headquarters building and officer billets for the 14th Trans Port Co. The old Japanese bank building became the MP headquarters. The Kunsan Customs House was used as an administrative building. All warehouses were commandeered for the war effort. (See 14th Trans Port Co. for more information on the unit.)

Customs House used by 14th Trans Port (1955) (Click on image to enlarge)	Customs House (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)
Travis Hughlett at Customs House (1955) (Click on image to enlarge)	Customs House used by 14th Trans Port (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)

Pontoon Dock (1954) (Click on image to enlarge)

Pontoon Dock (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)

Ferry Dock (1954) (Click on image to enlarge)

Harbor Changhang Ferry Dock (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)

Ship Loading at Dock (1954) (Click on image to enlarge)

Fishing boats at Dock (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)

Warehouse near HQ building At intersection of Railroad (Click on image to enlarge)

Area cleared in Spring 1999 Note Railroad switch in both pics (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)

Life was very hard. There appears to have been two refugee "camps" for the North Koreans. The "camps" basically were thrown together hovels or deserted warehouses. The area near Kaibo Tunnel was referred to as the "North Korean Village" as the refugees built hovels on both sides of the tunnels -- stretching up the side of Wolmyong Mountain. In 1951 the area was relatively open, but by 1953 the hovels were up to the mouth of the tunnel. There are also reports of people living in hollowed-out caves dug into the embankments near the railroad yards.

John Colburn wrote, "I keep trying to imagine what Kunsan looks like now. All I remember outside the port area were shacks with C-ration cartons for walls and split open beer cans for roofs. I saw a Korean with a little hand operated rolling mill that would make roof tiles from the beer cans. The tiles looked like this at the end: ^-^-----^-----^-^ The flat between the two Vs at the edge was used for nailing the tiles to the rafters, and the two Vs of the next tile overlapped the Vs of the nailed down tile. The beer cans were steel, not aluminum, and he cut the ends of and split the can down the seam so he could roll them. It was a rough time for the Korean people, but from pictures I've seen of Seoul they've made a remarkable recovery."

For some haunting photos of the faces of the children of Kunsan in 1952 go to Photos of Charles Bustion Photos (1952-1953).

Outside of the Air Base, the garbage dump was the scene of barefoot kids scavenging through the waste to find something sellable or edible. The scene was especially heart-wrenching for GIs who saw gangs of these kids in winter without shoes or proper clothing digging through the garbage trying to find something to eat to stay alive. (See Jack Boyer's photos below)

The ROK Army had a few camps throughout the area. Their duties were primarily to guard the port facilities and the Air Base, as well as protect against counter-insurgency. In the early days of the war, Communist guerrillas roamed freely throughout the area. The times were very harsh. If persons were caught in unauthorized areas, they were summarily executed.

Missionary efforts to relieve the suffering of the civilian populace was handled through the Kunsan YMCA. The base would hold collections of clothing sent from the states and take them to the missionary staff. The orphanage was built on the side of the hill near Kaibo Tunnel near the church. (See photos below) There was also a facility to handle abandoned babies.

The school system was very basic. Girls School was up on the bluff above the Kaibo Tunnel area the location of Jae-Il school today. Down the street was the Boys Kunsan Primary school across the street from where the old city hall was. (See photos below)

The Kunsan Open Market was in approximately the same location as today selling mainly fish, squid, and other seafood products. Sanitation was poor and "honey wagons" were on the streets. The "night soil" (human waste) was the primary fertilizer for crops. The smell to Americans could be overpowering.

Roy MacPherson, then a young gunner with the 90th Bomb Squadron, wrote of his eyewitness account of Kunsan City in 1953. He wrote, "Recently, my sister gave me some letters which I had written from Korea to my family and lo and behold I came across one depicting my trip to Kunsan. I thought you might find it interesting. It is far more detailed than that which my memory dictated. Keep in mind that it was written by a 19-year-old fresh from the suburbs of Boston. Excerpts from the letter read as follows:"

"( 24 March,1953)..." Dear Folks - How is everyone there? There's not much new here. I was down to the ball field watching some guys flying a model plane and saw a bunch of guys down by the chapel. So Rog and I went over and they were bringing clothes and food into Kunsan so we hopped on the truck and went with them. I happened to have my camera with me but I only had five pictures left but I took those and mailed it to Hawaii today.

I'll tell you a little about the trip. We left about 1 p.m. in two trucks piled liked sardines, officers and peons like myself plus two or three chaplains. We drove about half way to town and stopped at a refuge camp. Just little shacks a little bigger than a dog house. When we stopped we were mobbed by little kids. All they could say was "hello" and "chop chop". We threw them gum and candy. They were just like a bunch of dogs fighting over the stuff.

Then we went into town and stopped at the YMCA to leave the clothes and stuff and they gave us a half hour to walk around. It was quite a big town with thousands of people. We went up to a school and every time I tried to take a picture of the kids they would all run up close, but finally I got one. We went into a sort of bar-nightclub and the smell would almost drive you crazy. We didn't stay there long.

Then we piled into the truck and went to another refuge camp. There were about 100 people living in a room about as big as the downstairs of our house and it smelled like a cow barn.

Then we went up to the church and looked around and from there we went to an orphanage. About 100 little kids sang a song for us and a couple of kids sang solos and two girls did some kind of a dance. One of the kids who sang was about five, I guess, and he had on a pair of white overalls. What a hot-looking character he was standing there singing away.

We left there and went to a place where they take care of babies. (I guess they are babies whose folks cannot care for them). They had some soybean bread hanging up. They make it and leave it in the sun until it gets all moldy and then I guess they eat it.

From there we went to a girl's high school and went through that. When we came out there were about 1,000 ROK soldiers marching by with their pockets full of rocks. What a raunchy bunch they were.

Then we went to a place where they had a Buddha idol. They don't know how old it was but it was all gold and there were banners and ornaments of all colors there. I wish I had some flash bulbs so I could take a colored picture. I didn't have any film left then anyway.

From there we went down to the market. I almost got sick walking through there. They had all sorts of fish, squid, and snails. There were people making some kind of pancakes with green stuff in them. They had some black stuff, looked like tar paper or something, that they wrapped up their rice and fish and cooked it. The place really smelled badly. Then we came back to the base. It was pretty interesting. I am going to try to go next week and take some more pictures."

The temple that is mentioned in the Roy's letter is the old Japanese temple that existed near to Kaibo Tunnel. (See photo below) The temple building was constructed in the traditional Japanese method so it could be disassembled and moved. It has subsequently been relocated to about five blocks away and is still in operation. The original bell that was housed in an outdoor pavilion was also relocated to the new temple. An elementary school now stands in the old temple's place.

In his letter above, he referred to some "black stuff" that looks like "tar paper." This is a Korean staple called "kim" (seaweed laver or "nori" in Japanese). It is used in everything from "kimpap" (roll sushi) to soups. The pancakes he mentions could be "Pa Jon" (Green onion pancakes) or "Tallae Jon" (Wild onion pancakes) that are still popular today.

Kunsan City from Wolmyong Park (1951) Click to Enlarge	Kunsan Wolmyong Temple (1951) Click to Enlarge
Kunsan Wolmyong Temple (1951) Click to Enlarge	Wing Commander on Main Street (1951) Click to Enlarge
Wing Commander on Main Street (1951) Click to Enlarge	Kunsan street scene (1951) Click to Enlarge
Kunsan street scene (1951) Click to Enlarge	Kunsan street scene (1951) Click to Enlarge
Kunsan street scene (1951) Click to Enlarge	Kunsan Orphanage (1951) Click to Enlarge
Kunsan Orphanage (1951) Click to Enlarge	Kunsan Harbor (1951) Click to Enlarge
Jack Boyer and buddy (1951) Click to Enlarge	Kids at Garbage Dump (1951) Click to Enlarge

Kunsan Street scene (1953) Click to Enlarge	Mud wattle houses (1953) Click to Enlarge
Kunsan Street scene (1953) Click to Enlarge	Kunsan Street scene (1953) Click to Enlarge
Kunsan taxi (1953) Click to Enlarge	Coming Movie Attractions (1953) Click to Enlarge
Ricefield Irrigation (1953) Click to Enlarge	Chonju river scene (1953) Click to Enlarge
Chonju bridge (1953) Click to Enlarge	Chonju Gate (1953) Click to Enlarge

The picture was taken by Joe Smuts at a Korean wedding at Iri (Iksan) for Mr. Moon, a Korean who worked for the Marine MACS-1. The picture of the old man was taken at the Kunsan bus depot while heading to Iri. The old man was "paid" two cigarettes to pose for the picture.

Right: Woman spinning yarn; Left: Eunjaksa Korean shrine in Kunsan


Right: Fishing Port at Kunsan Harbor; Left: Capt Proudman at Kunsan Harbor


Right: Kunsan Harbor; Left: Japanese fishing boats seized by ROK navy


Left: Kum Gang River at Kunsan; Right: Kunsan City

Mrs. Pak's Orphanage -- Many GI babies

View of Harbor area (1954) Note HQ Bldg to far right. This area now all houses and small shops in 2000. (Click on image to enlarge)	Old Warehouses near Customs House Though most Korean War structures demolished, some warehouses survive. (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)
Warehouse area East Gate (Click on image to enlarge)	Now Haemang Road -- the main road. Old MP Bldg with red roof. (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)
HQ and MP Buildings. (Jeep in front of MP Building) (1954) (Click on image to enlarge)	Old MP Building now a Photo Reproduction shop. (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)
Warehouse near Inner Port (1954) Ration Breakdown Warehouse (Click on image to enlarge)	Warehouse falling apart, but still in use. (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)

Warehouse with oxen and cart (Click on image to enlarge)	Loading Boxcars (Click on image to enlarge)
Street vendor (Click on image to enlarge)	Children in the street (Click on image to enlarge)
Pagoda and shelter on Wolmyong Mt. (Click on image to enlarge)	Harbor View from Wolmyong Mt. (Click on image to enlarge)

The pagoda was constructed by the Japanese and filled with trash in 1955 when Joseph Smuts saw it. The shelter had a commanding view of Kunsan. When seen in 1987 by Kalani O'Sullivan, the pagoda was in a state of disrepair. By that time, the pagoda was hidden by trees that had been planted in the 1970s and the hillside of Wolmyong Park was completely different. Finally in the mid-1990s, it was demolished during the fervor to remove all traces of the Japanese occupation.

Pagoda and Shelter overlooking Harbor area (1955). (Click on image to enlarge)

Eunjeok-sa (temple) was discovered by Joe Smuts on one of his walks through the countryside as he walked past the reservoir (city water supply) and downhill in what is now Sambuk-dong. When Kalani O'Sullivan visited the temple in 1987, the buildings were still there and it was quite picturesque. However, in the mid-1990s, the buildings were demolished and new larger temples were built on the same location. In addition, the apartment buildings and various restaurants started to crowd in on the temple. Though the temples are beautiful, the garish fountain and brightly painted day-care center on the temple grounds detracts from its beauty. However, over the hill the old farm road along the reservoir has been transformed into a concrete walking path with street lamps and benches that stretches to Wolmyong Park. It is quite beautiful and makes for a pleasant walk.

The temple buildings clustered together on the side of the hill (1955) (Click on image to enlarge)	Temple buildings from below the steps (1955) The steps are uneven stone steps are still in the same location. (Click on image to enlarge)
The main temple building housing the large buddhas. The stone buddha figurine now stands in the new temple courtyard. (1955) (Click on image to enlarge)	The smaller temple housing the buddha figurines. (1955) (Click on image to enlarge)
Buddhas within the temple (1955) These buddha images have been moved into the new hall. (Click on image to enlarge)	The picture of the temple guardians (1955). (Click on image to enlarge)
Temple in Kunsan City brochure (1990) (Click on image to enlarge)	Temple in Kunsan City brochure (1990) (Click on image to enlarge)
Rebuilt Temple (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)	Pagoda at Temple (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)
Wolmyong Reservoir above temple (2000) (Click on image to enlarge)	Wolmyong Exercise Trail (2000) (NOTE: The main "trail" in the background is a macadamized road with street lampsleading up to Wolmyong park.) (Click on image to enlarge)

Period after the Korean Conflict (1960s) :

After 1954, the American presence in Kunsan slowly disappeared and the town once again returned to subsistence farming and fishing as the primary sources of income. Many refugees from North Korea had nowhere to go and remained in the area. However, the majority of the refugees departed the area and the population shrunk back to its pre-Korean conflict size of about 40,000 people.

One group that came in 1953 and remained was the Friends Service Unit, a charitable Quaker organization. On The Friends Service Unit in Korea it states, "In the summer of 1953, the American Friends Service Committee, the Quaker relief organization, was organizing a medical and social welfare team to go to Korea and my husband and I joined them. The Korean War had been going on for three years and it was hoped that a peace agreement would be signed shortly. The Quakers were sending this team in as they had often done following wars to help provide some relief to the people of that country."

It went on, "The cease-fire was signed in July 1953 and we arrived in September in Kunsan, Korea, a city-town of 30,000 located near the mouth of the Kum River in the southwestern part of the country. Overseas projects of the AFSC were very similar to the Peace Corps projects which came later. This was to be a short-term project of no longer than years, and individual members of the team were on two year assignments. We were provided food, housing and transportation and $2 allowance each week. Our doctors and nurses would be working in the local provincial hospital, teaching new medical techniques to the personnel and also treating patients. Because of the war, many of the Korean doctors had had no training in newer medical methods for several years. The social welfare member of the group would also work out the distribution of short-term relief aid and longer term employment projects to aid refugees who had fled to the south during the war." (NOTE: The site has some good photos of the refugees of Kunsan.) Pictures from the archives of Mr. Cheol-Kyun Shin , a noted photographer residing in Kunsan, show Kunsan as a poor country town and reflects the general condition of Korea as a whole. For an excellent pictorial spread of Korea from the 1960s-1990s, visit Mr. Shin's website at Cyber Gallery .

One picture says a thousand words. In Mr. Shin's panoramic views of Kunsan from the top of Wolmyong Mountain shows denuded hills, mud houses with thatch roofs and narrow streets. There was Taehak-Ro (University Road) of today -- in fact, there wasn't even a "University" (Kunsan National University) to name the road after.

To view his powerful black-and-white photos that capture the spirit of the people at work and children at play, click on Scenes from Cholla Province: 1960s - 1990s .

CLICK ON THE PHOTOS TO ENLARGE Slide 1 -- Panoramic view of Kunsan from Wolmyong Mountain looking towards Changhang -- Note the smoke from the smelter stack in Changhang. To the right Korean houses with thatched roofs. Also note how barren and void of trees the area was in the 1960s. Slide 2 -- Panoramic view from Wolmyong Mountain looking towards the old center of the city -- Note the Korean houses with thatched roofs at the base of what is now Wolmyong Park. To the right is the ferry station and inner port area. In the distance the river winds towards where the present Kumgang Estuary Dam is located. Slide 3 -- Panoramic view from Wolmyong Mountain looking east towards the Iksan (Iri) -- To the left is the inner port area. Note all the houses with thatched roofs. Slide 4 -- Panoramic view from Wolmyong Mountain looking south-east towards Chonju. -- In the 1970s, the city expanded in a southerly direction following the new Taehaek-ro (University Road). The route followed the old road shown on the map leading across the rice paddies off to the middle-right of the photo. (This road was in existence from the 1920s.) In the distance on the right is what would be called "Gumho Town". Slide 5 -- Panoramic view from Wolmyong Mountain looking south towards Okku -- Over the hills are present-day Naundong. Note the Wolmyong reservoir (yuongi) to the right. Slide 6 -- Kunsan harbor looking towards Changhang's smelter smoke stack. -- Note the shallow-draft fishing junks in the harbor...a sight no longer seen. The familiar smoke from the smoke stack was a land mark sight. Though the smoke is now gone, the smoke stack above the Lucky-Kumsung (Goldstar) copper smelter still dominates the Changhang skyline.

Click here for Slide Show: Korean War scenes of Kunsan

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GO TO WELCOME TO KUNSAN (Ancient Times-1899)

GO TO WELCOME TO KUNSAN (1900-1945)

GO TO WELCOME TO KUNSAN (1970-Present)

GO TO WELCOME TO KUNSAN: NOW!

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NOTICE/DISCLAIMER: The content of this page is unofficial and the views and opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect those of me or any of those linked from this site. Information presented is intended for entertainment purposes only. Links to other web pages are provided for convenience and do not, in any way, constitute an endorsement of the linked pages or any commercial or private issues or products presented there. None of this site has been endorsed by the Republic of Korea, Chollabuk-do Provincial Government, Kunsan City Administration, any quasi-governmental agency, or Mickey Mouse...nor has it been endorsed by the DOD, US Air Force, 8th Fighter Wing or Donald Duck.

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24 December 2001

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