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SONGTAN HISTORY

1952-1979

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Acknowledgement: Special thanks to Jack Terwiel, Capt, USAF (Ret) of the Osan Retired Activities Office for photos of base (past and present) -- Dan Klopten, Robert Furrer, Robert Evilsizor, Ron Freedman, Harry Tezlaf and Ken Shallenbarger. Special thanks to Jackie Turner, 7th AF Historian, and John Okonski, 51st FW Historian, for their assistance with photos and guidance on the history of Osan AB. Thanks to Curly Knepp, Maj, USAF (Ret) for his photos and direction in uncovering the history of the area. Thanks to Don Tomajan for his comments, photos and assistance on the EAB history in 1952-1954. Thanks to Bob Spiwak for his narratives and photos of life at Osan AB in 1953.

Special thanks to Mr. Oh Sun-soo, Victoria Hotel, for his information on the early development of Songtan. Special thanks to Mr. Jim Price, AIG Insurance, for his sharing of his experiences during his long residence in Songtan. Special thanks to Mr. Yi Kyong Chu, Kasey Lee's Tailors, for his help and guidance in assembling this history. Special thanks to Mr. Son Kwang-chil, Hanyang Kalbi, and Mr. Yi N.K, Korea Hotel, for providing information of the early days of the Milwal-dong area. Thanks to Mr. Kim Sang-do, Electronic Repair Shop, and Mr. Jeong Tae-ho, Young Chon Hotel, for their help in providing information of the early days of the Young Chon Alley area. Thanks to Mr. Kwon Oh-hoon, Dong Sung Realty, for his help on the local area history. Special thanks to Mr. Kim Jae-won, Asia Hotel for his help in providing a wealth of information on the local area.

Special thanks to Ms. Jin Dal-lae and other staff members of the Jisan-dong Ward Office for taking the time to research and provide historical materials on Songtan and Pyongtaek City. Thanks to the Shinjang 1-dong Ward Office for taking time to provide information on the roads in the area. Thanks to the Seojong-dong Ward Office staff and Chief of the ward Office, Choi Yun-su, for their help in providing maps to unravel the confusing boundary issues. Much of the information on Pyongtaek City and the Songtan area was extracted from the Pyeongtaek City History, Pyeongtaek Si Sa.

Thanks to the Songbuk Elementary School for permission to use their photos from their private collection. Thanks to staff of the Songshin Elementary, Taegwang Middle School and Taegwang High School staff for their help in their histories. Special thanks to the Mr. Kim Jong-youp, Vice-Principal of the Hyomyung Middle School and Ms. Choi Jeong-min for their assistance with the history of Hyomyung Middle School and High School. Special thanks to the Mr. Park Hyun-jong, Vice Principal of the Seojong Elementary School, and the staff including Ms. Choi Yun-young, Mr. Kim Hyong-ill and Ms. Pae Eun-hui, for their assistance in assembling the history of Seojong Elementary School.


View of Osan AB (USAF Photo)


THIS IS A WORK IN-PROGRESS AND FACTS ARE BEING ADDED/DELETED DURING THIS PROCESS. THIS IS NOT A COMPLETED HISTORY.



Songtan History

The community surrounding Osan Air Base is itself rich in history and tradition. Evidence of rice growing in the area dates back to around 800 B.C. Because of the areas abundance of water the flat plains became the prized area for rice crops. The first organized group in the area was the Samhan (Three Han Federation). One of the strongest of the Mahan group rose to prominence over the others as the Paekje and controlled the area. The Korguro swept down and pushed the Paekje down to Puyo and took over the area during the Three Kingdom Period. Later the Shilla pushed out the Koguryo and united the peninsula under the Unifed Shilla Period. Then the Koryo dynasty was founded setting up their capital in Kaesong and forced the capitulation of the Shilla and Paekje. Finally the Chosun Dynasty in 1392 set up their capital in Seoul. Taxes in the form of rice tribute was sent to Seoul from the area. There are also stories related that charcoal was also sent as tribute as only charcoal could be burned inside the Seoul city walls in the Chosun Dynasty. (See Brief Korean History of the Local Area.)

This history attempts to follow the development of the community and its symbiotic relationship with the base from the 1950s through the 1980s. After the 1980s, the impacts of the Miracle of the Han reached the area. The economic impact of Osan AB on the local community was lessened. In the 1990s, the Shinjang Mall area was designated as Special Tourism Zone recognizing the impact of Osan AB more as a source of income from tourism rather than a major employer in the area. In the 1990s, the development of an agricultural-urban city base of Pyeongtaek City was established with the surrounding areas being developed with national, regional and local industrial parks -- and Songtan was incorporated into Pyongtaek City. By the 2000s, the impacts of Osan AB on the local economy was still important, but no longer the major source of employment as businesses and factories moved into the area.

Songtan History Supposedly, there stood a village called "Che Yok Dong" on the site of the present Shinjang area. A king of the Shilla Dynasty (57 BC - AD 935) bestowed the name on the village, which means tax and labor exempt. It was not an empty gesture, the royalty was so impressed with the village leaders' honesty, fairness, and loyalty to their subjects and Korea that the inhabitants were exempted from paying taxes or working for the state. (Source: 51st FW Historian site) According to the 51st FW site, "Chicol-ni", the name of the village outside the Main Gate in the 1950s, was a derivative of the "Che Yok Gaol." (NOTE: In the Songtan.org: Songtan History, Chicol-ni (Chicol Village) is NOT mentioned as one of the original towns near Osan's Main Gate. The towns mentioned are Taehyeon-dong (near Songbuk Farmer's Market); Kunjang-maul (near the end of the runway); Namsan-teo (Namsan Village); and Milwal-maul/Shinjang-dong/Pokchang-maul (after the Korean War). We do not dispute the existence of Chicol Village, but it appears to have been only a minor village in the Chosun period located at the edge of Namsan-teo, Jaeyok-dong, Tanhyeon-myeon, Jinwi-hyeon.)

However, we are skeptical of this story. Long-time residents claim they have never heard of the story. (Source: Verbal Conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Mr. Chae Won-ho and Mr. Oh Sun-soo in July 2005.) In addition, in the Pyeongtaek History, Pyeongtaek Si Sa, we find no reference to this village story. However, we do find a reference under Shinjang-dong that up to 1960, the administrative area was known as "Jae Yok-dong" as an administrative unit for multiple small hamlets in the area. (Source: Pyeongtaek History, Pyeongtaek Si Sa.) (SITE NOTE: There are different English spellings of "Jae Yok" on road signs in Shinjang-1 dong: "Jae eok Gil" (road) or "Jeyeok Gil" (road).)

There is a story about Jaeyok Village that tells a story that during the Chosun period in Kung Jungjong's reign (1506–1544), Jaeyok was founded near Namsan-tau in 1522 (16th year of Jungjong's reign). King Jungjong established political reform, rectifying the wrongs of the previous administration. Jungjong also practiced Hyangyak, a method of self-government in the districts, which still applies to modern Korean governance today. During the Gimyo Purge of the Scholars in 1519, Chae Jang-soon, a member of a group of scholars pushing for innovative social changes, was forced to commit suicide because of false accusations brought against his group by conservative elements in the court. He was buried in Namsan-teo. 35 years later in 1559 during King Sonjo's reign, Chae Jang-soon was exhonerated of the charges and posthumously promoted to Minister. Yi Yul-gok (1536-1584) came to Namsan-teo and told to the residents to protect the Namsan-teo area to honor Chae Jang-soon. As a result the area was named, Jaeyok in honor of Mr. Chae. Associated with this was the exemption from tribute. (Source: Songtan.org: Songtan History: Hangul Translation).) (NOTE: We have not been able to locate the grave of Chae Jang-soon nor does any of the local population we have talked to know of its location.) (NOTE: Yul-Gok is the pseudonym of the great philosopher Yi I (1536-1584 AD), nicknamed "the Confucius of Korea." See TKDTutor: Yi Yul-gok for details on his life. Yi Yul-gok is depicted on the Korean 5,000 won note with Ojukheon, his memorial shrine in his birthplace in Gangneung, Gangwon-do, on the reverse.)


Origin of the Name "Songtan"

 The Chinese characters for "Songtan" means song = "pine" and tan = "charcoal." At the same time, the area to the north-west is known as "Seotan" meaning "West Pine." At this time, we do not know the specific origins of "Songtan." The most reasonable is the explanation was provided by Oh Sun-soo and Yi Kyong Chu (Kasey Lee)

Song (pine) In the Japanese colonial period, the Japanese reforestation center was in Suwon and its efforts to reforest Korea was considered a major success. According to American Military Government in Korea by E. Grant Meade, prior to the Japanese colonial period, the Koreans in the latter part of the Chosun dynasty had denuded their forests. Under the Japanese the Korean forests were again replanted as part of the Japanese Public Works system. The Public Works was a highly centralized activity under the Japanese regime with the heads of the local branches looking to the Province for orders as they were not under the direction of the district magistrate.

One of the Japanese Public Works successes was the forestry station in the Suwon area. Unlike other Public Works areas that were dominated by the Japanese, the forestry projects personnel were mostly Korean. Thus in one sense, the forestry was one area that Koreans were dominant and probably an area of pride for those involved in the reforestation projects. During the Japanese colonial period the reforestation project in Suwon used the hills of the surrounding areas as nurserys for seedlings or as tree farms to harvest the pine cones for seeds.

Though the low-lying areas were almost devoid of trees, the tops of the hills were covered with the hardy pitch pine (Pinus Rigida). The Pitch Pine was the pine of choice for reforestation because of its ability to withstand drought conditions. Because of the lack of ground cover needed to trap the water in a water shed, the rainfall simply ran off the hills causing repeated flooding in the flood plain area. However, the saplings root systems of the stunted three-four foot saplings aiding in the prevention of massive erosion.

The pitch pine prefers sun and moist well drained soil but will tolerate a wide range of soils including poor, dry soil. Important to reforestation of coastal areas was that the pine is salt tolerant. It is found on typically poor, dry, sandy soil that is often too sterile for most other trees, and usually found in the company of gray birch, and scrub oak. Growth is extremely variable; short and poorly formed on poor sites, but can be a straight, medium sized tree reachin 80 feet tall on better sites. Seed cone maturity is in 2 years -- a relatively short time for maturity.

However, as World War II dragged on, any Japanese advances in reforestation were wiped out as the wood resources went to the war effort.

After the WWII, the desparate need for heating fuel caused the Koreans to denude the hills to survive the harsh Korean winters. A common photo in the Occupation and post-Korean War years, was the farmer with an A-frame (chige) on his back filled with twigs and materials for firewood. Trees were a rarity in the densely populated areas of Korean cities and towns. In 1949, one of the first laws of the First Republic was the outlawing of cutting down any tree.

After the Korean War due to their rapid growth and potential to halt erosion on the denuded slopes of Korea, pitch pine and acacia were planted across Korea. (Source: Osan AB: Conservation.) After the Korean war, a law was promulgated that prevented the cutting down of any tree over 15 feet in height. The Military Government during the Occupation years reestablished the reforestation programs of the Japanese -- and like the Japanese Public Works program -- it was a success as well.

Photos in 1971 of a hilltop in Jinwi overlooking the Chinwi River at north end of base indicate that the reforestation with the pitch pine had taken place throughout the area. The trees appeared to be about three-feet tall. The irregular spacing of the saplings in the photo indicate that the trees were propagating naturally instead of through a reforestation effort -- with spaces gaps in the original plantings due plant demise. As the plants reach maturity in two years, the plantings on the Jinwi hills were planted much earlier. Around Seojong-ni there are patches of scrub pine (pitch pine) on the hills surround the city. However, these are only found on the hill tops -- not at the base of the hills which were cleared for the rice fields. (NOTE: This same hill in 2005 is now covered with a variety of trees and other vegetation. The lower portions have a thick growth of a mixture of trees (cottonwood, acacia and other species) with a mass of tangled vines between the trees.)


(L) Pine Reforestation (R) Pine in foreground of view of Chinwi River overflowing


During the Korean War, the Koreans would gather up all the pine needles and twigs from the trees, but they did not cut the trees. Not only was cutting of trees illegal, it was simply common-sense. The dried twigs from the trees were perpetual, but if you cut the tree down you had warmth only for a day. Bob Furrer noted that around his Taejon site, the villagers would gather the twigs under the trees, but would not cut the branches or tree itself.

Study of Pinus Rigida in the 1980s shows the study of the pine tree at plantations in 5 Kyonggi-do areas (Yongin, Songtan, Anseong, Yeoju, and Yangdong). Thus even today the Songtan is considered as a prime pine tree reforestation area for growing seedlings.

NOTE: The pitch pine and acacia are the two dominant forest types in the Songtan area with chestnuts also found in the area. Acacia trees (acacia albida) are found in arid or semi-arid areas of the hillsides to prevent erosion from the recurrent flooding of the area, but was also planted along the roadsides especially near bridges to prevent the shoulders from eroding. Along the highways in the local area, one can see acacias along the roadside and in the less populated areas of the hills surrounding Songtan. The acacia was normally planted on the semi-arid slopes.

However, the fast-growing cottonwoods were introduced along the roadsides next to rice paddies in the late 1950s. Cottonwoods typically grow on the edges of rivers and streams and can grow to 100 feet in height. In the 1960s, the fast-growing Norfolk pine imported from Australia was used to control the erosion on the mountainsides. Also the fast growing weeping willows were imported for use along reservoirs as it was aesthetically pleasing, but also good for preventing soil erosion on the banks.

In 1975, the national reforestation program was granted to the Chonju Paper Co. -- now Hansol Paper Co. Ltd. -- and the lush green forests one sees in Korea are due to this effort. When driving down to the Cholla areas, many foreigners note that the lush forests covering the mountains look somewhat strange but they can't pinpoint what it is. The strangeness is because the trees are evenly spaced and the growth seems unnatural. However, the reforestation has been a success.
Tan (charcoal) The explanation of the meaning of the charcoal comes from the name of the rise as one enters Songtan. The name for the area was "Sutgokae." The word "Sut-Ko-Gae" in Hangul (Korean) where sut = "charcoal" and kogae = "hill or rise." This can be retranslated into the Chinese ideograms to mean "Tan Hyeon" where Tan = "charcoal" and "Hyeon" = "hill."

In the Chosun Dynasty, the Seotan and Songtan area were engaged in charcoal production. The Tanhyeon-dong area (Charcoal Hill) near the present Songbuk Farmers' Market area, was a rest stop along the main road from Seoul. In 1756 census, Tanhyeon-myeon, Jinwi-hyeon showed 603 people engaged in the making of charcoal. There were large stands of pine trees in the area at the time. This area provided charcoal to Seoul as only charcoal could be burned within the city walls. (Source: Songtan.org: Songtan History: Hangul Translation)

According to Songtan.org, "Ssutkogae" comes from the Japanese colonial period when there were about 300 farm families selling charcoal for a living in the Seotan and Songtan area. According to this source, "ssutkogae" means "the top of the hill which makes charcoal" or "charcoal rise." (Source: Songtan.org: Songtan History: Hangul Translation)

According to Oh Sun-soo, the name was first applied to the rise where Route 1 from Osan City now goes straight ahead over a rise and stretched to the Jinsan Park area (Jwa-dong area). Later it was applied to specifically to an area along the ridge line in Jwa-dong where black clubs sprouted. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Chong Kyu-sok, 21 Jul 2005.) However, according to Songtan.org, "Ssutkogae" became "Sukgokage" by the end of the Korean War due to common usage. (Source: Songtan.org: Songtan History: Hangul Translation)

According to Yi Kyong Chu (Kasey Lee), there were supposedly many kilns used to remove the water from wood and create the deep black charcoal in the Jisan-dong area. This area started where the present Route 1 from Osan City goes up over a rise. Prior to 1985, this rise then went down into a crescent shaped area of rice fields and swampy land. The kilns were supposedly located on the interior slopes to the west and extended from where the present Express Bus Terminal is to the ridgetop overlooking the Shinjang area. The slope stretched horizontally from the ridgeline in Songbuk-dong where it starts to rise to the Jisan Park area. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Yi Kyong-chu, owner of Kasey Lee Tailors, 25 Jul 2005.) According to Mr. Kwon Oh-hoon the area near Jangmi Apartment Road was also known to contain charcoal kilns using the acacia and pine trees in the area leading to the area being known as Sutkogae (Charcoal rise). According to Mr. Kwon, the Jisan Park Hill (Songtan Park) contained a village called Sutkonjang-ni (Charcoal factory village) or Sutma in the 1950s-1960s. Supposedly the charcoal kilns were near the Jisan Elementary School area on the portion of the park close to the Jangmi Apartment Road. (Source: Verbal Conversation Kalani O'Sullivan with Mr. Kwon Oh-hoon, owner of Dongsung Realty, on 23 Aug 2005.)

Supposedly the area of Jeomchon Village was filled with pottery kilns. This village was located on the slope that leads up towards the present Songtan City Hall Branch Office. According to the Songtan.org: Songtan History, a Mr. Hwang Kum-seok came to the town in 1920 to make and sell pottery. Soon many people came to the area and made all variety of pottery from Kimchi Pots to bowls. (Source: Songtan.org: Songtan History: Hangul Translation) (NOTE: It was also during this time period that the term "Ssutkogae" (Charcoal Rise) came into use.)

Kim Jae-won remembers walking past the Jeomchon area on his way to Songbuk Elementary School and seeing many kilns in the area. He suspected that these had been converted to pottery manufacturing after the use of charcoal was replaced by charcoal briquettes -- cylindrical charcoal with holes in the center made of pulverized charcoal in the late 1960s. (Source: Verbal Conversation with Mr. Kim Jae-won, owner of Asia Hotel, on 26 Sep 2005.) In the late 1970s, Songtan housing expanded into this area and the kilns shut down and people forced to relocate.

The existence of kilns in the local area would be corroborated by the existence of bathhouses that operated in the Chong-mun up (Front Gate Town) using this charcoal to provide hot water for the "steam houses" (saunas). In 1953, a bathhouse was started by Jeong Tae Ho near the communal well in Chicol Village. (NOTE: This was the origin of the Young Chon Hotel.) Soon other bathhouses sprang up as the population swelled.

NOTE: Some mispronunciations of "Sutgokae" (charcoal hill) created some misinformation to be spread.
  • Supposedly prior to the area being commonly called "Chicoville" (Chicol Village) by the Americans, it was referred to as "Sugogi" (meaning "cow meat" from the American bastardized pronunciation of "Sutgoge"). (Source: Verbal conversation with Jim Price, Jun 2005.)

  • Some Koreans mispronounced "Sut" as a strong sound and it came out as "suk." "Suk" stands for a medicinal plant (related to the dandelion family) used in rice cake coloring (green) and meat sauces. As "kogae" means "a rise," the name was interpreted to mean a small rise covered with the "sut" plant. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Chong Kyu-sok, 21 Jul 2005, and Yi Kyong-chu, 25 Jul 2005.) Some Korean people interviewed knew that this name applied to the rise area as one enters Songtan, but thought it meant that the rise at one time was covered with the herb "suk." None of these people made the linkage between both "sut" and "tan" both meaning charcoal.

  • The Shinjang-dong House Office had just been established in 1962 in its present location at the top of the hill in the Mokcheon area. In 1963, Songtan-myeon (district) was to be upgraded to an eup (town). According to Oh Sun-soo, former owner of the GQ Tailor and owner of the Victoria Hotel, when the area was to be upgraded to a "town" (eup), meetings were held amongst the area leaders and there was much discussion on finding a suitable name for the new town. The name "Sutkogae" was considered. However, because the Chinese ideographs could be mispronounced as "Ssutkogae" which metaphorically means sex between a man and woman, "Sutkogae" was rejected. None of the other names seemed appropriate as they were relatively small villages and not representative of the town. As there was no consensus on a name, "Songtan" was accepted as the name of the town. (Source: Verbal conversation with Mr. Oh Sun-soo, 21 July 2005.)

    However, this is refuted as the names of Korean towns were ALWAYS based on the Chinese ideographs meaning "Tanhyeon" (Charcoal Rise) or "Songtan" (Pine Charcoal) would have been more appropriate as a town's name choice. (Source: Verbal Conversation with Kim Jae-won, owner of Asia Hotel, on 26 Sep 2005.)

Old Villages of Songtan

The following are short descriptions of the old villages in the Songtan area dating back to the Chosun dynasty in some cases. Sources of information are from varied sources. The translations from Songtan.org: Songtan History. We apologize that the translations from the Songtan History are not full translations as some of it deals with items that were not relevant to our history. We also take full responsibility for any unwitting inaccuracies injected into the translations to English.


Songtan (2002) (Pyeongtaek Si Sa)


  • K-55 (Osan Air Base)

    • Chokbong Village -- (NO LONGER EXISTS) Near present Osan AB BX. Village relocated when base constructed in 1952. (Source: 931st EAG, Overview Drawing, Aug 51.) Jeuk Bong-ri (Source: History of Osan Air Base, Republic of Korea, Osan Air Base Historical Office, April 1999 and GlobalSecurity.org: Osan AB.)
    • Yari Village -- (NO LONGER EXISTS) On the north side of base near sand pit during construction. Yari relocated when the base perimeter road constructed in 1953. (Source: 931st EAG, Overview Drawing, Aug 51.) (Source: History of Osan Air Base, Republic of Korea, Osan Air Base Historical Office, April 1999 and GlobalSecurity.org: Osan AB.)
    • Shin-Yari Village -- (NO LONGER EXISTS) On the north side of base near sand pit during construction. Yari relocated when the base perimeter road constructed in 1953. (Source: 931st EAG, Overview Drawing, Aug 51.) (Source: History of Osan Air Base, Republic of Korea, Osan Air Base Historical Office, April 1999 and GlobalSecurity.org: Osan AB.)
    • Chang Deung-ri Village -- (NO LONGER EXISTS) This village relocated to make way for the 5th AF construction and construction of facilities for a second wing that never arrived. (Source: 931st EAG, Overview Drawing, Aug 51.) The Ginko Tree on the Golf Course names a village of Eunhaeng-junge which may be the same as this village. (Source: History of Osan Air Base, Republic of Korea, Osan Air Base Historical Office, April 1999 and GlobalSecurity.org: Osan AB.)




    Songtan (2002) (Pyeongtaek Si Sa)


  • Shinjang 1-dong

    • Kujang-teo Village -- (Near the Doolittle Gate) During the Chosun dynasty, it was the marketplace for the Jinwi area. "Ku-jang" means "Old-market." (Source: Songtan History.) Currently a small village between the EOR and overrun area and the Doolittle Gate Road. (NOTE: On the Aug 51 931st EAB Overview Drawing, this is annotated as "Shinjang-ni" (New-Market Village).)
    • Shinjang Village -- Called "Tongsang Ji Goal" Village and was a food market BEFORE the Korean War. AFTER the Korean War, it became Shinjang. (Source: Songtan History.) (See Kujang-teo, Shinjang 1-dong) (NOTE: This appears to be talking of the Jungang Open Market in the Shinjang Mall area that appeared in about 1954 as small food stalls and grew into covered alleyways in the 1960s.)
    • Jaeyeok Village -- Founded in 1522 in the 16th year of King Jungjong's reign. Jaeyok was founded near Namsan-tau in 1522 (16th year of Jungjong's reign). During the Gimyo Purge of the Scholars in 1519, Chae Jang-soon, a member of a group of scholars pushing for innovative social changes, was forced to commit suicide because of false accusations brought against his group by conservative elements in the court. He was buried in Namsan-teo. 35 years later in 1559 during King Sonjo's reign, Chae Jang-soon was exhonerated of the charges and posthumously promoted to Minister. Yi Yul-gok (1536-1584) came to Namsan-teo and told to the residents to protect the Namsan-teo area to honor Chae Jang-soon. As a result the area was named, Jaeyok in honor of Mr. Chae. Associated with this was the exemption from tribute. (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Namsan-teo Village -- (Near Bravo Gate) Unknown where name originated. Speculation that "Wonsan" changed to "Namsan." (Source: Songtan History.) (NOTE: See Jaeyok Village for note.)
    • Mokcheon Village -- (Near Kyongbu Railway) Village is estimated to be 500 years old. The large Jinwi River was to the east. In the past it was noted to have a large forest and there was a wood bridge across the Jinwi River. During flood periods, wood float down the river and retrieved in the town. (Source: Songtan History.)


  • Shinjang 2-dong

    • Milwal Village -- (Near Main Gate) Four roads converge in the area. In the past, the area supposedly had large stands of pine trees that were noted for its beauty in viewing the moon. "Milwal" means "Honeymoon" which would describe the feeling of viewing the moon from this area. (Source: Songtan History.) At the onset of the Korean War, during the Battle of Hill 180 the area described as devoid of trees. During the Korean War, many North Korean refugees from the Hwanghae-do settled in this area making it a mass of tightly packed houses.


      Road from Milwal Road down to Prince Hotel in Shinjang 2-dong


    • Songweol Village -- Southern part of Shinjang 2-dong. In the past, the area supposedly had large stands of pine trees that were noted for its beauty in viewing the moon. (Source: Songtan History.)


  • Songbuk-dong

    • Tanhyeon Village -- In the Chosun Dynasty, the Seotan and Songtan area were engaged in charcoal production. The Tanhyeon-dong area (Charcoal Hill) near the present Songbuk Farmers' Market area, was a rest stop along the main road from Seoul. In 1756 census, Tanhyeon-myeon, Jinwi-hyeon showed 603 people engaged in the making of charcoal. There were large stands of pine trees in the area at the time. This area provided charcoal to Seoul as only charcoal could be burned within the city walls. In Chinese ideographs, "Tanhyeon" means "Charcoal hill." In Hangul, this equates to "Sutkogae" (Charcoal rise). (Source: Songtan History.) This area was just above the old intersection of MSR-1 to the Shinjang Mall Road -- now the Mokcheon Pedestrian Underpass road. It extended from the MSR-1 in the Farmers' Market area up to Mite Keonji Village. (NOTE: The Songbuk Farmers' Market originated AFTER the K-55 base was built. Prior to this the 1950s, the Kujang Village (Old Market Village) at the end of the Osan AB runway was the food market place for the Jinwi area.)




      Songbuk School Road heading towards Rte 304


    • Keonji Village -- (Near Songbuk Elementary School) Built 450 years ago next to the Jisan Cheon (Stream). Near Keonji Village, there was a Yangdal Village. To the northeast of this village there was a swampy lake called, "Buk Ahweol" which abounded in fish. Dried fish was a specialty of the village. (Source: Songtan History.) There were two villages: Are Keonji-ni (Upper Keonji) and Mite Keonji-ni (Lower Keonji). (Source: Verbal Conversation with Mr. Oh Sun-soo, owner of the Victoria Hotel, on 24 Aug 2005.) Access to the village was by a dirt road that followed the Jisan Stream. This village disappeared with the construction of the apartment buildings near Songbuk Elementary School, but still shown on a Songtan area map north of Route 304 across from Songbuk Elementary School. The area called Dokguk-dong.
    • Magok Village -- Before its name was Banghyori and located in Jinwi-hyeon. After the Korean War, it became Makgok, Panghae-dong. It was located on the backside of a mountain with a road called "Songhyun." "Songje" was below the mountain. Soldiers tents were in an area called "Makgok Camp." (Source: Songtan History.)


      Magok Village (Pyeongtaek Times)


    • Jungri Village -- Inside Magok Village in Panghae-dong. (Source: Songtan History.)


      Panghae-dong (Pyeongtaek Times)


    • Panghae-dong Village -- Panghyo-ri 400-500 years ago changed to Panghae-dong. Most of the people are from Kwangju branch of the Lee family. Guess that came to area in Chosun dynasty 400 years ago. (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Dongmak Village -- Chosun period, three roads converged at this village. It was a rest stop with taverns and houses. It was first in Jinwi-hyeon, Masan-myeon. Later it was in Tahhyeon-myeon and then Songtan-myeon. (Source: Songtan History.) Located in the Burak Mountain hills. Location of Dongmak Reservoir.
    • Shinheung Village -- Across the Mountain from Ojwa-dong and split away from Ojwa-dong to create a new village. (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Ojwa-dong Village -- In the middle of the Chosun dynasty (Yi jo), Mr. Chae Ja-ban, a teacher, made the town. There were a long of birds (bongang) that would eat seeds from the udong tree. The area was called "Dongshil-bong." This area has a memorial to Chae Ja-Ban (susgongun sadang) and a 5.6m gingko tree. (Source: Songtan History.) (NOTE: On boundary of Jinwi-myeon. See Chae Yu-Lim Shrine (Landmark) in Ojwa-gaol (hamlet) in Ojwa-dong Village)
    • Oligok Village -- 300-400 years ago a Mr. Oh came and made the town. The area was called "Oh lu gok" and then was changed to "Oh li gok." Townspeople state that because there were a lot of ducks in the stream it was called "Uri gaol." Uncertain, but there may have been a bridge across the stream. (Source: Songtan History.) (NOTE: On the boundary of Jinwi-myeon.) (NOTE: Oligok is north of Route 304 (Songbuk School Road) on the other side of the mountain and south of road into Jinwi.)
    • Jijang Village -- (Near Songtan Middle School) In the Koryo period in 1300 A.D. it was named Burak-man. The Jijangsa Temple is behind the Songtan Middle School up on a hill. The town was below the temple. In the Imjin War (Japanese Invasion), the temple was destroyed. Currently there is a small temple marker to mark the spot. (Source: Songtan History.) (NOTE: Hoam-sa Temple and Seongbul-sa Temple are located in the area. We cannot locate the temple marker at this time.)
    • Ugok Village -- (In Burak Mountain) Village looks like a cow laying down. Thus it it is called "U" (cow) gok (lie down). In the Koryo period a Mr. So from Chinsan government came to the town. Villagers stated he was a bad man and the town at the time was called, "So goal" town. (Source: Songtan History.) (NOTE: Ugok reached by following Chaeyokshiseol Trail into the Burak Mountains. Along Route 304 up the Jisan Valley.)


  • Jisan-dong

    • Songcheon Village -- Gogi-eup inside of Jisan-ni, Panhyun-dong. In 1970, the name changed to Songcheon. (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Jwadong Village -- (Near Terminal Ridge Road) Called by two names: Jwaeul and Jaweol. Also called Jaeul. Mr. Chae-shi from Kangnung is purported to have made the town. (Source: Songtan History.) Aerial photos show it existed along the MSR-1 in 1952. In 1970s area commonly known as "Sutkogae."


      Jisan-dong, Sutkogae in Jwadong area


    • Jijang Village -- (Near Jwadong Village and extends to Jeonchom Village area) Aerial photos show it existed along the MSR-1 in 1952.


  • Ichung-dong

    • Wonyichung Village (I-chung) -- It was said the Chunshin was good for the King Yi chung. According to the Songtan History, Oh Dal-jae, teacher, was born here in 1609 and Jo Gwang-jo was born here in 1482. The town was made 600 years ago, but destroyed by construction of the road. Only 10 people remained in 2002. (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Shinli Village -- Across from Ichung Village (Wonichung Village). A new town. (Source: Songtan History.) (NOTE: There is also an area in Jinwi known as "Shinli" in the vicinity of Songtan Samik Apartments in Songbuk-dong)
    • Dongryung Village -- Monument to Oh Dal-jae and Cho Gwang-jo located here. A 1759 Map shows area as Songjanghyan. There was a military army camp at Dongryung and it was listed as a strategic location. However, this army camp has disappeared. (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Chilkwae Village -- During the Chonsun dynasty, Mr. Han Si's family founded the town. Magok town is across the mountain. (SEE Magok Village, Songbuk-dong) There were a lot of thieves (hinchi kogae) in the Burak Mountains. The town had a well and 7 nuti trees. Shamanist believed the trees were 7 powerful people protecting the well. The trees no longer exist, only the well. (Source: Songtan History.)


  • Seojong-dong

    • Pokchang Village -- During Korean War, North Korean refugees from Hwanghaedo moved to the area. (Source: Songtan History.) Other areas of North Korean refugees settlements were Milwal-dong, Jeokbong-ni, Sageori and Shinchang-dong.


      Jeokbong-ni (Pyeongtaek Times)


    • Sageori Village -- Meeting of four roads. During Korean War, North Korean refugees from Hwanghaedo moved to the area. (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Jeomchon Village -- In 1920 Hwang Kum-seok came to the area to make pottery to sell. Soon may people came to the area to make pottery as well. In 1970 Songtan was expanding and houses were built in the area and the people left. The grave of Cheong Hon-top in the area. (Source: Songtan History.) Kim Jae-won remembers walking to Songbuk Elementary School and passing large numbers of kilns in the area. (Source: Verbal Conversation with Kim Jae-won, owner of the Asia Hotel, on 26 Sep 2005.)


      Seojong Tourism Road to City Hall from the Jeomchon area.


    • Seojong Village -- "Seojong" means "West Well." Supposedly there was a well where the water tasted superior. (Source: Songtan History.) There were three wells in the area of "Seodungmul" (Seodunmul) just above Seojong Elementary School. There are no wells now as the water table has dropped as Jangang-dong has drawn away the water. (Source: Pyeongtaek Times: Seojong-dong) The original village cluster was located just above the Seojong Elementary School. There appeared to be three circular clusters just above the Seojong Elementary School indicating the existence of three wells. This area is now called "Seodumul." (Source: Map of Seojong-ni area from Songbuk House Office.)
    • Shinseo Village -- East of Seojong-ni. Built during the Chosun dynasty and called "Shinseo." (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Shinseon Village -- Near Seojong-ni. After the Korean War, many people moved into this area. (Source: Songtan History.) "Wongok" is in this area next to the Seojong Business district.
    • Mogak Village -- During the Chosun period, it was noted to have a large land on the plain. It was noted for making raincoats made of straw. (Source: Songtan History.)


  • Jungang-dong

    • Galbyeong Village -- (Near Seojong-ni) There used to be a bridge in the area that no longer exists. Supposedly the area had a lot of reeds that were used to make sandals. (Source: Songtan History.) Northeast of Seojong-ni Train Station to the east of the tracks. Galbyeong Road starts at Galbyeong Village.


      Galpyeong


    • Jangang Village -- Formerly within Seojong-ri when it was under Songtan-myeon. (Source: Songtan History.) (Near the Jangdang local industrial area.)
    • Wonjangdang Village (Jangdang) -- The mountain looks like a deer (jang) in this area. The town was at the base of the mountain in the Chosun dynasty. (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Kwangcheon Village -- Split out from Wonjangdang. There was a large stream there which boats would navigate. (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Kwangkwi Village -- Split out from Kwangja Village in 1960 as a farming area. There is a spring in the area. (Source: Songtan History.) South of Seojong-ni Train Station.
    • Panseong Village -- In 1910, a Mr. Cho came to the the town (Cheongno Town) and made a water wheel. 4-5 generations of the Cho family have lived there. The name was changed to Pyeongseong. (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Jangan Village -- In the Chosun dynasty there was the Samnam Road and Hwinchi (small) Road. During the later part of the Koryo dynasty, a Mr. Cha (teacher) lived here. There was a food market here. In this village there is the Unam Cha Won-bu grave; Hwinchi Gogae Yi Yong-Son stele. (Source: Songtan History.) (Near the Jangdang local industrial area.)


  • Songtan-dong

    • Naeri Village -- "Middle Village" in Middle of Doil-ri. Grave of Admiral Won Kyun located here. (Source: Songtan History.) Near the Deok-am Mountain. (See Korean History for details of Won Kyun grave.) North of Korean National College of Rehabilitation and Welfare.
    • Hari Village -- Below Doil-ri Village. Place of 99 hills. Grave of Admiral Won Kyun located in the area. (Source: Songtan History.) Near the Deok-am Mountain. (See Korean History for details of Won Kyun grave.)
    • Sangri Village -- In the village about 800 years ago there was a furnace for the production of iron. There was an upper town with pears and other fruit trees. In the 1759 census, there was 90 people clustered around a river fording point. At the time the village was called "Sachal-ri." The tree at the fording point still exists. (Source: Songtan History.) Located on the southeast of Songtan-dong near Route 333. It is located north of Naeri. Below Bonghwang-sa Temple in Buraksan Mountain.


Old Songtan Villages that are in areas that were split away to Pyeongtaek-shi to facilitate administrative control of industrial zones:

  • Jajae-dong: To the south of Ichung-dong, the boundary is Jajae-dong, Pyeongtaek-shi.

  • Kajae-dong: To the south of Songtan-dong, the boundary is Kajae-dong, Pyeongtaek-shi. "Kajae-ul" was made up of Sangkajae, Hakajae and Kamnamu. "Kajae" comes from the shape of the mountain that looks like a small lobster. (Source: Pyeongtaek Times: Kajaeul)

    • Sangkajae Village -- Lots of birds and "kajae" (crawfish). Grave site of Independence fighter: Yi Sung-ik. "Sangkajae" means "upper Kajae." (Source: Songtan History.)
    • Hakajae Village (Kajae) -- Hakajae is at the lower end of the Sangkajae. (Source: Songtan History.) ("Hakajae" means "lower Kajae." South of the Route 1-Hyomyung School Road intersection within the Songtan Industrial Area.)
    • Kamnamu: (NO LONGER EXISTS) Kamnamu was a small village below Hakajae. The name comes from the many "kam" (persimmon) trees in the area. However, since the people moved away, there is few of the trees left. (Source: Pyeongtaek Times: Kajaeul)


  • Doil-dong:

    • Wondoil Village (Doil) -- In the Chosun dynasty, it was called Yau, Pangmyeon, Yauchaneul. (Source: Songtan History.)


  • Mokgok-dong: Pyeongtaek-Songtan Local Industrial Complex -- Abuts Jangdang Local Industrial complex) To south of Songtan-dong, the boundary is Mokgok-dong, Pyeongtaek.




    Songtan Industrial area (Mokgok-dong)

  • Chilweon-dong: (part of Chilgoe Local Industrial area)

    • Chilweon Village -- In the 1759 census, there were 120 people. Chilweon is Suchon and Sincheon together. It is now called Wonchilweon. It was at the meeting of three roads and became a rest stop with a lot of business. Thus there were a lot of makoli houses. The town was first called Gaolwon meaning "curative spa." (Source: Songtan History.) To the east of Route 304.
    • Shincheon Village -- Halfway between Suchon and Chilweon. A new town. Wondoil town created called "Chilweon Changalili." Domicheon stream runs beside it. During the Chosun Dynasty it was called "Yaujaul. Many people lived along Kamju Road. (Source: Songtan History.) Below Wondoil. To the east of Route 304.
    • Suchon Village -- Split off from Chilweon. Later located across from Tongbuk. The water from Suchon was noted as drinking water for its purity. Local custom has sacrifices of a black pig in Mudang ceremonies to ensure the purity of the water. (Source: Songtan History.) Below Shincheon. To the east of Route 304.


In Research as to location of village:

  • Seokjeong Village -- "Seokjeong" means "stone well." Supposedly there was a stone well where the water tasted superior. This was one well of three wells that the water tasted superior in the Chosun dynasty period. The stone well remains. (Source: Songtan History.) Indications are that this village no longer exists. At this time, think in Seojong-ni in the Seodumul area.

1950s

Growth of Chicol Village (Chicoville) and Chong-mun eup (Front Gate Town) (1950s) The impression of the local culture on the American soldiers was not positive. Ron Freedman, a 2nd Lt. with the 398th AAA AW Bn at K55. He stated, "And of course the stench from the use of night soil was overpowering. The place was so backwards it was unbelievable. No roads, no electricity, no water, and the main road through Osan-ni was just dirt. The villagers paid their taxes by keeping the road somewhat repaired."

According to Jim Price, the shanty town just outside the base was called "Sugogi" by Americans before it was called "Chicoville, but he didn't know the reason. (Source: Verbal conversation with Jim Price, Jun 2005.) However, by 1953 the area was called "Chicol-ni" (Village) or "Chicoville" by the Americans taken from the name of the village directly outside the Main Gate. "Sugogi" means "cow meat" but it was actually the bastardization of "Sutkogae." According to Oh Sun-soo, the word "Sut-Ko-Gae" in Hangul (Korean) means "charcoal hill or rise." According to Mr. Oh, the name was first applied to the rise where Route 1 from Osan City now goes straight ahead over a rise -- but later was applied to an area along the ridge line near the base in Jwa-dong. Later it would be applied to the area in Jwa-dong across the railroad tracks from K-55 where black bars and brothels sprang up. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan with Oh Sun-soo in 21 July 2005.)

Chicol-ni was the area directly to the left of the Main Gate as one exited K-55. In 1957, the first large building on the left was the Hansong Korean Dance Hall. Behind this were farm houses and fields. It extended down until the Namsan Village area with the mudwattle houses up to the perimeter of the base along the hillsides. The lower areas in the basin before the rise to MSR-1 were rice fields.

The area to the right of the Main Gate (the new shanty town) was referred to as Chong-mun eup (Front Gate Town) by the Korean people. In Confucian thinking, the farmer held a higher status level than the tradesman -- and therefore, the farmers tended to disassociate themselves from the "camptown" (kijich'on) trade. Under the Confucian model, the businessman is the lowest in social strata.


Local Families (Jan 1952) (Robert Evilsizor)



Local Families: Papasan Entering house with A-frame (1952) (Robert Evilsizor)



Local Families: Buddhist Temple next to Choga-chip (NOTE: Believe at Hill 170 Namsan Village.) (Jan 1952) (Robert Evilsizor)


However, after 1955, the common name of the shanty town was "Chicoville" (Chicol Village or Chicol-ni). There was also reference to Chicol-ni as "C-rats Village" (C-rations). Some people jokingly referred to it as "Mudville" because the roads were all dirt and when it rained, it became a sea of mud.

For the purposes of this history, we will call the entire "front gate town" (Chong-mun eup) area as "Chicol Village."


Village Well (1954) (Dan Klopten)



Communal well in Chicol Village in 1956 (1956) (Jeong Tae-ho)


This area is located on the left side of the Shinjang Mall looking east.


Eventually the entire rice field area in the Jaeyok-dong area was reclaimed for use as housing by the mid-1960s. Notice the difference between the 1954 photo and the 1956 photo. In the first the shanty-town houses are set back from the well and separated by the rice field. In the second in 1956, the shanty houses are now encroaching on the well indicating that the population of Chicol Village was growing. Notice also the position of the pig stys and rice fields that use human waster for fertilizer in relation to the artesian well. A bathhouse was constructed near this well in 1953 and became the beginnings of the Young Chon Hotel. (Source: Verbal conversation with Jeong Tae-ho, owner of Young Chon Hotel, 20 Jul 2005)

NOTE: The Young Chon Hotel is now built on the site of the well. According to Cho Hoon, the well itself is now enclosed and located in the basement area of the Stereo Club, but Sun Shei-Chyi stated it was still a source of water for the Young Chon Hotel. (Source: Verbal conversation with Cho Hoon, Cho Pharmacy owner, 23 Jul 2005 and Sun Shei-Chyi, Tai Ho Lou restaurant owner, 24 Aug 2005.) According to Pak Chong-su, owner of the Park's Doll and Toy Shop, and Kim Se-hwon, owner of the Rose Hotel, there were two springs. The first was the Yongchon spring and the second was located across the Jeyok Road in the rice fields near the perimeter of the base. (Source: Verbal conversation with Pak Chong-su, on 19 Nov 2005, and Kim Se-hwon on 20 Jan 2005.)
The buildings of "Chicoville" were a clap-trap variety thrown together with any scrap of timber or refuse that could be found. Photos show the roads as all dirt and the roofs of the houses appear to be tar paper tacked down with strips of wood. The shanty-town spread from the main gate back to the rail line and around the base of the small hill with MSR-1 on the other side. There was little construction up the hill as yet. The shanty town residents did include prostitutes, but the majority were simply people trying to find work to survive. Those were still desparately poor times.

There was work for doing the most menial of tasks using A-frames to haul dirt to breaking rocks with sledge hammers. It wasn't much -- but it was work that provided money for food. The lucky ones found semi-permanent work in the mess tents or supply, but the majority lined up to be selected for menial "coolie" labor tasks on a daily basis. The elite were those who could speak a little English and were invaluable as translators.


Making Forms for Concrete 30 inch Drainage Pipes while Temperature at 20 degree F (1952) (Robert Evilsizor)



Concrete 30 inch Drainage Pipes while Temperature at 20 degree F (1952) (Robert Evilsizor)



Making Crushed Rock (Jan 1952) (Robert Evilsizor)



Drainage Ditch Construction (1952) (Robert Evilsizor)


Story of Pak Chan-yang Pak Chan-yang was 15 years old in early 1953. It had been six months since he'd fled North Korea living as a refugee in Kunsan when he came to Songtan seeking work. (SITE NOTE: We believe that this would have to be in 1951 when the US forces were retreating from North Korea after the Chinese joined the fray. Because Seoul was falling, the refugees were relocated south to Kunsan. The Chinese stopped their advance in the Seoul area and the North Korean refugees remained in the Kunsan area. Other North Korean refugees from the Hwanghae-do area just above Kyonggi-do streamed south through Seoul and stopped at Taejon. When the advance stopped and news of work at Osan AB, these refugees migrated north again to the Songtan area, settling in the Milwal-dong area (Shinchang-dong and Jokbong-ni).)


Pak Chan-Yang (2001) (Airmen Magazine)


"Then he heard the Americans were hiring people at Osan. He knew he had to go there. "It was the only way I could help myself and my family," he said. "I had to go." So with the few won [Korean money] that his father had given him in his pocket, he left. The money didn't last the trip, but he made it to Osan. What he saw amazed him. The base was still under construction. And jets took off with a roar from its concrete runway. The landscape around the base was bare. There were no rice paddies or trees. No town or homes. "I had never seen anything like it before," he said. "But there was so much going on." Out of money and hungry, he joined the other people outside the base gate looking for work. He spoke no English and had no job skills. But he was determined. During the next three months, he lived day to day. If he got a meal a day, he was lucky. Many days he went hungry. He built a shack from cardboard boxes discarded from the base. But each time it rained he had to rebuild it. "And it rained a lot," he said. Pak doesn't like to dwell on that time. All he'll say is that it was a hard time. He got his break in January 1954 — a job helping build the base dining facility. He had an income. Could eat regularly and send his family money. When the dining facility opened, he stayed to work in the kitchen. Soon he developed a taste for roast beef and hamburgers. He's been at Osan ever since, longer than any other worker." (Source: Air Force Magazine, Oct 2001, Honcho Park)

C-Ration Village Outside the Gate (1954) (Robert Furrer)


We believe the photo above was taken from just outside the Main Gate to the left from a depression immediately to the right of the Main Gate. The Shinjang Mall Road from the Main Gate slowly curved to the left and then right at an incline straight up the hill. The hill to the left is where the Hanil Church would be built. The Shinjang Mall Road was just to the right of it -- going up the hill to the base of the ridge at a diagonal.

It crossed the railspur at the top of the hill at a diagonal to get around the base of the hill and then veered left and down the other side to cross the Kyongbu line at the Mokcheon crossing at a diagonal. It then continued straight to intersect the MSR-1 at an angle.

Though hard to see the Kyongbu Railway is running from left to right about halfway up the hill in the photo. It comes from Osan-ni and enters the picture from behind the hill to the left.

In 1954, there were only a few houses on the hill. However, by 1957 the houses had covered the hills. To the far right edge, one can see a road that is going up over the hill. We believe this is a service road for the railspur junction of the Kyongbu Railway from the area of Terminal Ridge Road. (NOTE: This would be the area where the Shinjang Road Overpass would be built.) Directly to the right of the Shinjang Mall Road under the small sign board is the entrance to a small undeveloped path that would its way to the Songwang area.

Chicol-ni and Chongmun-eup Population Explosion In the photo below, the Shinjang Mall Road -- though then only a dirt road -- goes straight ahead to the MSR-1. Mr Oh Sun-soo, owner of the Victoria Hotel, used to own a home on the corner directly outside the Main Gate to the right. There was a small road (path) to Songwang area that jogged behind his house then diagonally from the Main Gate towards the upper left-hand corner of the picture.

(NOTE: This is now the alleyway behind the 7-11 across from the Main Gate. The path went down the alley to the road to the overpass. It led past where the Asia Hotel is now into the alley that is to the rear of the hotel. This led to the street with the Prince Hotel. The original path continued down the road for about a block and then went up to a path along the side of the hill -- now a small side road (Milwal-Songwol) following the path's old route. It continued down past the rice fields to the Songwang area (Shinjang 2-dong).

Main Gate Aerial View (1957)


The Milwal Road started at the Main Gate and then jogged around a house and then diagonally at a 45 degree angle to the base of the hill. It then proceeded up the hill and veered to the right to the Hill 180 Gate (Shinchang-dong and Jokbong-ni area). Mr. Son Kwang-chil, owner of Hanyang Kalbi, had his family home on Milwal Road in Milwal-dong -- directly to the right of the Main Gate -- five houses down from the top of the photo on the right. According to Mr. Oh, all the area to the left of the gate was known as Chicol Village. (NOTE: In 1978, the road would be widened and straightened to lead straight to the Main Gate.)

All the area to the right was known as "Chong-mun eup" or Front Gate Town. To the left on the Chicol Village side, the first large building was the Hansong Dance Hall which later became a billards parlor. A hotel would be built along the area and then the Osan Hotel would be built there in 1983. (NOTE: The Namsan Village Road was built in 1993 and the Osan Hotel moved to its present location at the base of the Milwal Road.)

In the Chicol Village area to the left as one exited the Main Gate, the large Haesong Dance Hall (and later pool hall) that was the first large building outside the gate. It was replaced by a hotel in the 1960s. (NOTE: The Namsan Village Road would not be built until 1993.) In the low lying areas, the rice fields were slowly being reclaimed, but the communal well was still in use. This was the Jae Yok-dong area.


Kyongbu Railway Crossing (1959) (Ed Stirling)


NOTE: Notice that the rail is slowly dropping off on a gradual decline towards Osan-ni. (SITE NOTE: Over the years, the rails have been leveled as seen by the cuts made between the line of the original hill to the current railbed in the Shinjang area is between ten to fifteen feet.)

The train passes over the base of the ridge at the Mokcheon Crossing and then drops off as it passes this point. At the right edge one can see the signal for the Mokcheon Crossing -- location of the Mokcheon Pedestrian Underpass today. A little further down, one can see pedestrians crossing the track on the pedestrian short cut to the Songbuk Farmers' Market. This is the location of the Mokcheon Underpass today. Further on is the point the initial road crossed to get to the back gate. (NOTE: The Pyeongtaek City records show the road was built in 1980-1983, but photographic evidence shows the road was in existence in 1953.) After the Korean War, this road appears to have been used primarily for the Shinjang-ni village area.


Railway Crossings In the Songtan area in 1959, there appeared to be three railway crossings -- two unmarked and one with railway crossing bars and lights.
  • Back Gate Crossing The first unmarked crossing appears to be where the first dirt road was cut from MSR-1 to the back gate, but then used to get to the Shinjang-ni village area. (This is now the overpass road to the Back Gate (Doolittle) in Shinjang 1-dong.) The village in the distance is Mokcheon-ni Village between the crossing and "Chong-mun Eup" (Front Gate Town) Mokcheon Crossing.

  • Mokcheon Area Crossing The second crossing was from the Mokcheon area which had developed into the residential area. It was directly across the tracks to the Songbuk Farmers' Market entrance. This remained an unmarked crossing. This was not a formal road, but simply a foot path developed by people taking a shortcut to the Farmers' Market. In the 1960s, it developed into a lane on the Songbuk-dong side as businesses and houses crowded in on the tracks. When the Shinjang Road Overpass was built in 1978 the Kyongbu tracks were sealed off with a high wall. Later in the 1980s, the Mokcheon Underpass was built at this point -- along with a road that ran up to the Shinjang 1-dong House Office and Jungang Church.

  • Shinjang Mall Road Crossing The third was the continuation of the Shinjang Mall road to the Mokcheon crossing. The road proceeded to the marked crossing with a bar and lights. Later in the late 1960s, this became a manned crossing. After the Shinjang Road Overpass was built in 1978, this crossing was blocked. This is the present location of the Mokcheon pedestrian underpass.

Roads Around Osan AB (K-55) in 1950s The first road was the Shinjang Mall Road that ran directly from the Main Gate across the rail spur and then the Kyongbu railroad tracks to the MSR-1. This was the original road built by the Co A 839th EAB. This road was built up about 15 feet above the existing rice fields -- level with the Kyongbu Railway. (This would later become the Shinjang-mall and Mokcheon pedestrian crossing area.)

In the 1950s, the Shinjang Mall Road was the only major road to the MSR-1. The Shinjang Road was not developed until the 1970s when Park Chung-hee acquiesced to a request from the Osan AB Commander that a new road needed to be built to the MSR-1 because of the congestion along the original route. Originally this was a small road (path) in the 1950s that curved to to the right at a 45 degree angle at the Main Gate and then turned left to go over the railroad tracks to MSR-1 over the ridgeline. It was not used for vehicular traffic in 1950s.

The Milwal Road connected the Milwal-dong area to the Main Gate. It did NOT connect to the MSR-1until the Shinjang Road Overpass was constructed in 1978. In the 1950s, it was simply a dirt path that jogged around a house at the main gate and then traveled in a 45 degree angle until it reached the base of the hill. It then went up the hill and veered right. The small dirt path followed the perimeter along the west side of the base until it reached the Hill 180 Gate.

Because the shanties in Chicolville were so susceptible to fires, a one-engine fire station was placed at the top of the hill with a watch tower in 1958. (In the 1970s, in conjunction with the building of a new road to the MSR-1, the Milwal Road was widened and straightened to go from the top of the hill straight to the Main Gate. (SEE Roads surrounding K-55: MSR-1 Access Roads.)

Shinjang Mall Road According to Oh Sun-soo, the original businesses started in the Songwang area (near the Songshin Elementary School) and spread outward to the road and into the Jungang Market area. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Oh Sun-soo, 21 Jul 2005.) This seems reasonable as there was a used lumber yard in the early 1950s where people got lumber to build their shops while the rest of the Chicoville was made up of shanties. The lumber was scrap from pallets or crates as wood was at a premium during those times. According to Kwon Oh-hoon the major garbage dump was in Ojwa-dong (Ojwa-gaol) behind Are Konji-ni, but this was the garbage dump -- not a salvage yard or business. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Kwon Oh-hoon, 24 Aug 2005.)

By the late 1950s, the buildings along the Shinjang Mall Road were starting to look more substantial as small shops and businesses started up. In the late 1950s, most of the shops appeared to be variety stores, beauty shops and drug shops. The Shinjang Mall Road remained a two-lane packed dirt road. Just before the railroad tracks there was a slight rise. In the Songbuk-dong area, the road terminated in a "Y" intersection that served as the entrance to the base. The first businesses started up at this intersection. The "Y" intersection of MSR-1 was within one block of the Songbuk Farmers' Market, Jaeil Theater and the Intercity Bus Terminal.


Shinjang Mall Road head toward Hill. (1959) (Ed Stirling) (NOTE: The road veers right at hill and continues up incline to rail spur.)


Looking down Shinjang Mall Road in the picture above, the hill straight ahead where the Hanil Church would be built. In the photo above, there is a drug shop (with clinic) on the right and a beauty shop and another drug shop on the left. Notice the mover with a load on his back carried on an A-frame (Chige) on right of the road -- with a truck on the left. The road is a two-lane dirt road that veers right and then continues up an incline to the rail spur.


Shinjang Mall Road just before the Railspur. (1959) (Ed Stirling)


The picture above is taken on Shinjang Mall Road just as one nears the railspur to the "freight gate." Lights (or perhaps Buddhist paper lanterns) strung across the road indicate the crossing. To the left near the tracks are furniture movers. To the left, is a policeman riding his bicycle. (NOTE: Notice the large building to the left along the tracks on the Shinjang-side. Compare this to the 1965 photo by Harry Tezlaf and 1966 photo by Thomas Utts of the same location where the same large building still exists.)

MSR-1 MSR-1 from Osan-ni (8km to the north) ran straight through the town until it came to a fork. In 1952 when the base was first built, the MSR-1 (Tanhyeon Street) that ran straight ahead and up the ridgeline past the Songbuk farmers' market on the left. At the top of the ridge, it would turn right at the Terminal Ridge Road and go west down the ridge and across the railroad crossing at the base of the hill. It would continue straight and turn right to the Main Gate of Osan AB (K-55). The Terminal Ridge Road also ran east down the ridge and joined MSR-1 near the present Express Bus Terminal at a T-intersection.


MSR-1 Looking towards Osan-ni in the Jinwi-myeon area (1954) (Don Klopten)


The Jisan dong area at the time was rice paddies and swamp. If you didn't turn left at the ridgeline turnoff, the road (Jwadong Road) ran straight ahead down the ridgeline past the Jwadong Ridge Road. It following the Kyongbu rail road tracks until the road (Jijangdong Road) leveled off near the Seojong-ni area and ran next to the train tracks. It ran straight ahead past the Seojong Train Station and then continued on to the Pyeongtaek Train Station. This was the MSR-1 used between 1952-1953. (NOTE: This is the route that the Pyeongtaek City buses take to "K-55" from Pyeongtaek station. Remember that the Koreans of Songtan do not use the term "Osan AB".)


Intersection of MSR-1 Bypass Road and Road to Main Gate (Terminal Ridge Road) (1954) (Robert Furrer)


MSR-1 Bypass By late 1952, the growth was spreading out rapidly up the sides to the ridge across the railroad tracks and along the MSR-1 creating congestion in the area. A new route was cut by 8th Army Engineers (unit unknown) that ran to the left at the fork near the dirt path leading to the Ojwa-dong area and Are Konji-ni. MSR-1 Bypass was to allow through traffic to bypass the congestion created by the construction of Osan AB.

Now listed as "National Route 1," the MSR-1 Bypass continued up past the Songbuk Farmers' Market to the right (Songbuk Market Road) and continued straight down the road (Bukbu Jungang Street) until it got to Sejeong ni at which point it turned right toward the Sejeong Train Station. Before the train station, it turned left and rejoined the original MSR-1 (Seojong Market Road) as Homyeon School Road. It continued on straight to the Pyeongtaek Train Station. Photos in 1959 show the MSR-1 Bypass was a dirt road large enough for two lanes of truck convoys in both directions. The photos also show the area of Jisan-dong next to the Express Bus Terminal as being rice fields between the MSR-1 and the hills (Burak Mountains) -- where the present Route 1 to Pyeongtaek runs. There was a circular area that was a geological sump area of rice paddies and swamps. The road between the fork and Seojong-ni was relatively flat.

The Jisan-dong area had not been developed as yet and the area was all rice paddies up to the base of the Burak Mountain area to the east and to where the Are Konji-ni (Lower Konji Village) was located in the northeast. Oh Sun-soo, owner of the Victoria Hotel, stated that his family home was originally from Are Konji-ni. Mite Konji-ni (Upper Konji Village) was located near the present location of the Songbuk Elementary School on the left as one followed the Jisan Cheon (Stream) up the valley. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan with Oh Sun-soo, 21 Jul 2005.)

In the 1954 picture above there is a faint line in the middle of the rice field and what appears to be flood gates. This is the path that connected the Are Konji-ni (Lower Konji Village) to the farms along the base of the Jisan Hill. According to According to Kwon Oh-hoon the major salvage yard/garbage dump was in Ojwa-dong (Ojwa-gaol) behind Are Konji-ni. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Kwon Oh-hoon, 24 Aug 2005.) The areas between the intersection to Are Konji-ni to the left are rice fields.

After Songbuk Elementary was opened in 1955, the children from the Shinjang area would walk around the base of the Jisan Hill and then follow the path around the base of the Buraksan Mountain until Songbuk Elementary. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Kwon Oh-hoon, 24 Aug 2005.)

By the late 1950s, the Songtan "downtown" areas were crowded near the Songbuk Farmers Market and the town expanded to the east. By the early 1960s, the rice field areas between Are Konji-ni to the intersection from the path to the MSR-1 Bypass Road had been filled in and housing & businesses filled the area.

Milwal Road The Milwal-dong area was where most of the North Korean refugees -- mostly from the Hwanghae-do area -- attracted to Osan AB by the promise of work clustered in this area for mutual protection and support. Originally Milwal Road was simply a dirt path from the Main Gate led up the hill to Milwal-dong. The road came out of the gate, twisted like a snake going around a building and then went at a 45 degree angle until it straightened out at the base and went up the incline.

At the top of the hill, the Milwal Road veered right and became the Shinchang Road. This road followed the perimeter until it connected to the Hill 180 gate. There was only one road at the time and many alleyways off of the road that followed the topography in a mass of dead-end alleyways. The houses were built right up to the fence line of the base and was a mix of older mudwattle (choga chip) farmer houses with vegetable plots and the low mudbrick and stucco homes with transite roofs.

Housing sprouted outside the Hill 180 Gate area mainly supporting the populace that worked on the base. As was mentioned before a "camptown" of Makum-ni was to the right as one exited the Hill 180 gate at the bottom of the rise, but after the Korean War ended, it slowly returned to a farming village. (Source: Narrative of Lt. Ron Freedman about life on Hill 170.)

After Makum-ni, the dirt road continued straight ahead following the perimeter of the base until it came to the village of Kumgak-ri to the west of the base. In Nov 1953, a school was established here that became a "branch" school of Seotan Elementary School and later would become the Kumgak-ri Elementary. (NOTE: This school filled the need for the large numbers of North Korean refugee children who had moved into the Milwal, Jokbong, Shinchang-dong and Sagori areas on the south side of Osan AB. This school was closed in 2000 due to falling rural population size.)

At Kumgak-ri, the road (path) turned right. In this area the villages of Shin-Yari and Yari were relocated and the 839th EAB operated a Sand Pit. This area were primarily rice fields with scattered mudwattle homes. The road continued straight ahead to the Chinwi River. This was the west end of the runway. At this point, the perimeter road from the base on the north side joined with the road (path) from Kumgak-ri and continued over a long bridge spanning the Chinwi River to Seotan-myeon. This area was susceptible to flooding when the Chinwi River overflowed its banks. The base had built a levee and a drainage channel between the Chinwi River and the base to minimize the impacts of flooding.

Life in Chicol Village and Milwal-dong In the late 1950s, the conditions in the village of "Chicoville" (Chicol-ri or Chicol Village) improved. The buildings were looking a little more sturdy than in the Korean War era. The "strip" from the Main Gate to the rail spur now contained the "entertainment" district. The bars were now box-like structures resembling warehouses with open-air windows. Yaugwans (inns) had sprouted all along this area.

Many of the new shops were now made of wood. A scrap lumber business salvaged wood from pallets crates -- any of wood that could be used for construction was in the Songwang area -- though the major salvage yard was up behind Are Konji-ni in Ojwa-dong (Ojwa-gaol). Concrete was scarce commodity as Korea continued to rebuild its infrastructure from the devastation of the Korean War. It would be another decade before enough cement plants and plywood factories were constructed to meet the demands for construction materials. Most new construction used mudbricks covered with stucco.


Hideaway Club (1958) (Don Klopten)


Commerce was returning to the area in the form of small grocery stores (each one saying they had cold beer). Also seen were the tailor shops and shoe repair shops. The pharmacies (Yak) that dispensed medicines (including venereal disease treatment) also sprouted up as doctors in Korea were at a premium so the government authorized the drug shops to take over parts of the medical trade in prescribing western drugs. Of course, the drug shops were off-limits to GIs. (NOTE: In Korea, there are two types of medical doctors. Western Medicine and Oriental Medicine. The pharmacy only dealt western medicines and were restricted from any sales of oriental medicines. Because the lack of doctors, the government authorized the pharmacies to prescribe medicines for the treatment of common ailments. Fifty years later, this system is still in use.)

The Jungang Open Market started up as a small operation in the side streets to the left of the Shinjang Mall Road in the general area it is today. Stands were set up in the open air along the sides of the alleyways peddling various condiments, fruits, vegetables or inexpensive goods. By the late 1950s, small open-air shops for retail goods (cheap clothes, etc.) appeared -- the predecessor of the Shinjang Shopping Mall. (NOTE: The Shinjang Road did not exist at the time, but there was a small undeveloped dirt road that led from the Main Gate diagonally to this general area near to the Jungang Open Market area and then a path curved down to the Milwal-dong area until the Songwang Church. By the late 1950s, shanties had spread down the slopes of Hill 180 near the present Capital Hotel to the railroad tracks and filled the area south up to the rice fields.)

According to Oh Sun-soo, the businesses started in the Songwang area (Shinjang 2-dong) near the railroad tracks and spread outward. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Oh Sun-soo, 21 Jul 2005.) NOTE: Songshin School had not been built yet as the area was still rice fields up to near the Sogwang (Onnori) Church stood on a slight rise.

This area would have been the area just to the south of the Jungang Open Market Shopping Mall area with small shops near the railway tracks. That the first businesses would spring up here seems reasonable as the population was here -- not up on MSR-1. Photos of the area outside the gate in 1954, showed very little in the way of houses. However, by 1957 the houses had spread up the sides of the hills.

The used lumber yard used for the construction of many buildings in the 1960s was in this area. In this area the hardware shops also sprang up. (NOTE: The refuse of the base was hauled away under contract -- and every piece of wood that could be recycled (such as wood pallets or crates) were salvaged. According to Kwon Oh-hoon the major salvage yard/garbage dump was in Ojwa-dong (Ojwa-gaol) behind Are Konji-ni. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Kwon Oh-hoon, 24 Aug 2005.) Even up to the 1970s, the dunnage (wood blocks to block munitions on railway flatcars) would be "traded" to Koreans along the tracks for bottles of soju or beer. Though technically such actions were "blackmarketing," the act to the GIs was simply saving them from having to haul all the dunnage away after they off-loaded the munitions.)

NOTE: The area up to where the present day Shinjang-2 House Office is located was land, but the area beyond was all rice fields. In the mid-1960s, the rice fields were reclaimed and the Songshin Elementary School was built in 1965 on the highground. Next door in tents was the Songwang Middle School. It was replaced in 1973 by the Taegwang Middle-High School built adjacent to the Songshin School after the land was reclaimed. It would not be until the mid-1970s that the rice fields further south would be reclaimed and Pokchang Elementary School would be built.

Main Gate Looking out at Shinjang Mall area (1959) (Ed Stirling) (NOTE: The Songwang Church can be seen in the distance in what is now the Shinjang 2-dong area.)


The 1959 photo of the Main Gate plainly shows a church visible above the shanties outside the gate. The Shinjang Mall Road was to the left so the church was near the road leading to the MSR-1 up the ridgeline. The only church in this area was the Songwang Church. The Songwang Church has recently changed its name to the Onnori Church and is located directly across the street from the Shinjang 2-dong House Office.

NOTE: The oldest church in the area is the Jaeil Church up on a hill in the Milwal-dong area on the southwest side of the base. It was first started as the Jwadong Presbyterian Church in 1958 and changed to the Jaeil Church in 1961. The other major churches in the area are Songtan Catholic Church (1965); Jungang Church (1967); and Hanil Church (1967). These three churches are located on the hill along Mokcheon Road near the railway and have been prominent landmarks for the Shinjang area.


2005: Onnuri Church (Formerly the Songwang Church) (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: One can see the traces of the old lettering for the Songwang Church above the door)


Expansion of Businesses along MSR-1 A path was being used to cross the railroad tracks from the Chicol Village (Chicoville) (Jae Yok-dong area) to get to the Songbuk farmers' market area. This never was a recognized crossing, but as you could see the trains approaching over 8km away in both directions, there was never much concern of an accident. A lane sprang up on the Songbuk side of the tracks to this crossing. (NOTE: This later became the Mokcheon Underpass road.)

The Shinjang Mall Road to the MSR-1 was through a marked crossing with bars and signal lights. (NOTE: This later became the Mokcheon pedestrian underpass -- found directly at the end of the Shinjang Shopping Mall Road next to the Kyongbu Railway fence.)

By the late 1950s, the Songbuk Farmers' Market had expanded to feed the growing Korean population in the area. It was situated in the main part of town in the Songbuk area alongside the MSR-1. Like the Osan-ni Farmers' Market 8km away, its opening indicated the local economy was coming back to life. However, at first the offerings would have been simple condiments and produce at first. By the late 1950s, semi-permanent stalls started to appear offering clothing or other essentials.

Around the farmers' market, small businesses sprang up turning the area into the business center. Buildings started to line the MSR-1 that ran past the farmers' market. The center of the town now shifted to the business district that had grown with small shops lining the MSR-1. Housing was still critical and one 1959 photo showed a "house rental agency" business along the MSR-1 on the road looking towards Osan-ni along the road just after one left the main part of town.

The base provided the major portion of the area's income as the largest employer of Koreans as waitresses, housegirls/boys, support staff, road construction crews, skilled and unskilled laborers. Foreign exchange was also earned from the bar trade and open prostitution off-base in Chicol Village. The houses immediately surrounding the Main Gate area were small mudbrick and stucco structures that were primarily one-room houses with outdoor "water closets" (toilets) and outdoor cooking facilities. The heating was with the hondol system (water heater) using charcoal so these small confined quarters were dangerous in winter due to the potential of carbon monoxide poisoning.

In the late 1950s, a police box was added at the intersection of Shinjang Mall Road to the MSR-1. It is where the current Songtan police station is now located. Policemen rode bicycles at first, but later white motorcycles and jeeps became the mode of transportation.

The one engine fire house established in the 1958 was located up on right at the top of the Milwal-dong hill with a fire watch tower. In the "Chicoville" fires were constantly breaking out due to flimsy materials used to construct the shanties and the danger of it spreading rapidly in the closely packed housing was always a concern. (NOTE: In the 1970s, the fire station was combined with the Pyeongtaek Station, but in the late 1970s, Songtan again had its own fire station.)

In 1959 photos of the area a mud brick "factory" in the area is shown. These mudbricks were the major building material from the Korean War through the late 1970s as concrete was still considered an expensive alternative due to limited cement production facilities in South Korea. In the Shinjang 2-dong area near the railroad tracks, there was a lumberyard that specialized in used lumber from pallets or any source -- mostly the refuse from the base hauled off under contract. These bits and pieces ended up in the manufacture of houses in the area. According to Kwon Oh-hoon the major salvage yard/garbage dump was in Ojwa-dong (Ojwa-gaol) behind Are Konji-ni. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Kwon Oh-hoon, 24 Aug 2005.)

Education Starting in 1949, it elementary education was made compulsory. The main intent was to get the children to once again read "hangul" as their native language. In the 1930s, the Japanese banned the use of hangul in the public schools in an attempt to assimilate Korea. On 3 Mar 1938 the teaching of Korean in middle school was abolished.

The Seojong Elementary traces its roots to the Seop Konlip Hakyo that was established on 3 Jun 1922 and became a four-year school on 16 Oct 1922. It later became a 6-year elementary school in 1924 and graduated its first class in 1926. However, according to the Pyeongtaek Si Sa (History), it was founded in 1945 as a "branch" school and became a recognized Elementary School in 1949 with 8 classrooms. (SEE Seojong Background for Seojong Elementary school photos and history.) Officially, there was only the Seojong-ni Elementary School in 1952 when the base was first built.

In Seotan-myeon, the Seotan Elementary School was established in 1930. The Seotan Elementary School is in the same location at present. There was also a private school in Seotan-myeon at either Madu-ri or Suweolan-ri in the 1950s-1960s.

The Kumgak-ri Elementary School in Godeok-myeon was on the west side of base. It became a "branch" school of Seotan Elementary School in Nov 1953. This school was established to fill the need for the education of the large numbers of North Korean refugee children that had moved into Milwal-ni, Jokbong-ni, Shinchang-dong and Sagori on the south side of Osan AB. In 2000, the Kumgak Elementary School closed because of lack of students -- reflecting the current crisis of declining rural populations -- and the student body combined with Pokchong School in Seojong-dong.

There was Sandae Elementary in Jinwi-myeon was established in the 1930s. This later became the Jinwi Elementary School.

However, we know that other private and religious operated in the area. The Hyomyeon School in Seojeong-ni started in the 1953 as a private Catholic school and should qualify as one of the oldest in the area. The classes started when Father Dominicu, the Korean priest, began classes in the rectory for a small number of children in 1952.

In 1953, the 18th FBW contributed money and materials to build a 8-room country school about two miles from the base. The official dedication date of the St. Theresa's Middle School on 21 Apr 1953 is used as the official beginning of the Hyomyung Middle School.

In June 2005, we ran across an HQ Far East Air Force (FEAF) news release that mentioned a school being built by the 18th FBW. The HQ FEAF, 5th Air Force news release on 22 Jan 1954 read in part: "The airmen of the 18th Fighter Bomber Wing provided materials and finances for a new eight-room country school house near Osan for 280 Korean grammar school children. While Korean builders speeded the construction of the new building, men of the 18th Wing utilized their off-duty time in the base hobby shop making 90 double desks and 140 double seats needed for the students."

We began our search for the school at the time in the immediate area -- with no luck. However, while conducting an interview on the Seojong-ni area schools at Hyomyung Middle School, we were shown the 2003 50th Anniversary edition yearbook of the Hyomyung Schools and a small article by Father Dominicus -- the Catholic priest of St. Theresa's Church in Seojong-ni between 1952-1960 -- documented the building of the school by the 18th FBW of K-55 (Osan AB) donations.


Chaplain (Maj) Rinkowski and St. Theresa's Middle School (1952) (Hyomyung 50th Anniversary Book (2003))

The Hyomyung Middle School 50th Anniversary Edition (2003) shed light on this school. The postcard in the photo reads: "This school was built by Catholic Airmen, Army Personnel, SCARWAF Personnel of K-55 through their generous contributions at Masses during the past six months. Bishop Paul M. Rho, Bishop of Seoul, (blocked out) the $6,000 (blocked out) 6 January 1954." According to Mr. Kim Jong-youp, Vice-Principal of Hyomyung Middle School, the structure was built in what is now the parking lot of the Seojong Catholic Church.

It appears that $6,000 -- a significant amount of money at that time -- was donated towards the construction of the school done under contract, The key man in getting this going was Chaplain (Major) Rinkowski of the Wing Chaplain of the 18th FBW and Father Dominicu (Korean priest) of the St. Theresa's Church in Seojong-ni. However, this project was not well-publicized and may have been a strictly Catholic airmen initiative as many veterans of that period did not know of this school.

The Seojong Church (St. Theresa's Catholic Church) was founded on its present location in 1937. Prior to this structure, Father Dominicu (1918-1977) was teaching a small number of students in the rectory in 1952. Father Dominicu served at the church from 1952-1960.


Father Dominicu teaching in Rectory (1952) (Hyomyung 50th Anniversary Book (2003))

The building was erected in 1953 and called "St. Theresa Middle School" -- and is the predecessor of the present Hyomyung Middle School. (NOTE: It appears that the date of the official opening of the structure by Bishop Paul M. Rho is used as the founding date of the Hyomyung Middle School, though the school was established at a much later date about a half-mile down the road. The Hyomung Middle School was founded on 21 May 1953 -- and followed by the Hyomyung High School on 21 May 1956.)

There were also other "church" schools in the area. The most visible was the Salvation Army was active in the Chicol Village area. Its main work was with the orphans through the Gusegun (Salvation Army) church set up in the area. (NOTE: The during this time period there were 20 orphanages in Suwon and three in Pyeongtaek to handle the overflow crowds of children. The Pyeongtaek orphanages handled the orphans that showed up at K-55. Currently there is the Ae Hyang Orphanage in Seojong-dong run by Mr. Lee Min Ho.)

Smaller church schools also operated in the area. The Kwangmyeong Gongmin Hakkyo (church school) was established in 1953. (NOTE: We haven't established the location, but Taegwang Middle School authorities state it was in the same area as the Taegwang Middle School today -- probably near the high ground near the Songwang Church (Onnori Church) in Shinjang 2-dong as the remainder was still rice fields. Most likely it was set up in tents donated by the American military as building materials were scarce.)

On 11 Nov 1955, the Songtan Godung Gomin Hakkyo (church school) started six classes. This became the Songwang hagwon on 6 Jan 1962 and then merged with the Songwang Middle School on 17 Mar 1962. At the time, this was set up in military tents alongside the Songshin Elementary School which was established on 1 Jan 1963. On 12 Mar 1968, the Taegwang hagwon changed to the Taegwang Middle School and supplanted the Songwang Middle School with permanent structures next to the Songshin Elementary School.)
Mystery School Bob Spiwak sent a photo taken in 1953 that he at first thought was an orphanage, but then realized it was school kids. We at first thought it was Seojong-ni Elementary, but the signboard reading "Seotan branch school" didn't match. Mr. Oh Sun-soo stated that the construction appeared to be Japanese meaning it was built PRIOR TO the end of WWII. In comparing the structure to the old Seojong Elementary photos from the 1940s, we agree that it is of the same type of construction -- but it is NOT the Seojong-ni Elementary School. Seotan Elementary's principal stated that the photo was NOT of his school in Seotan that dates back to the 1930s. Then we noticed the correlation of Kumgak-ri Elementary on the southwest side of Hill 180 being attached to Seotan Elementary in Nov 1953 -- and thought it was the school built by the 18th FW in 1953 with donations. Again we were wrong as this turned out to be the predecessor of the Hyomyung Middle School in Seojong-ni and the new school was NOT of Japanese style construction. In addition, Bob Spiwak stated that the school was within easy walking distance of Hill 170 on the north end of base -- while Kumgakri is located about three miles away on the south side of the base. As of Sep 2005, we are still uncertain as to where this school was.


School unknown, but near Hill 170 (1953) (Bob Spiwak) (NOTE: See Compulsory Elementary School Education in the Songtan area for details.)

Bob Spiwak's photo is of significance as there were few photos of these types of structures and infrastructure at the time. At that time, photos were for portraits or official photos and very few candid shots of the schools exist. What is marvelous about the photo is that though the kids had patches on their clothes -- all the clothes appeared washed and pressed. This reflects the attitudes and respect towards the educational process on the part of parents and children -- a tradition continued till today. There was no middle school or high school in the area and for many of these kids -- this was the end of their education. The intent of these schools was to teach the Koreans to once again read "hangul" (Korean) -- after years of Japanese colonial rule which banned the use of Hangul in schools in 1937 -- and it succeeded as the Korean populace currently has a 98 percent literacy rate. Because of the times, this would be the last education for many of these children as poverty prevented many from continuing on.
In 1952, Robert Evilsizor with the 839th EAB, took some 8mm movies of a long procession of kids walking to school. As there was only the Seojong Elementary School in the area at the time, these kids must have been on the way to school. They were guided by the teacher and some women who might have been parents or teachers. Though the government had passed a law making education compulsory it did not fund the schools adequately. Thus most of the schools were supported by "donations" from the Parent-Teacher Associations. In fact, those children whose families could not afford to "donate," did not attend school. Because of the severe poverty, many times families could not even afford the cost of paper and pencils. In the film, most of the children did not have uniforms, but some of the older one did. Some of the girls wore white blouses with black trim on the collar and black skirts. Some of boys wore the traditional black coat and pants. What was evident was the happiness to attend school that was evident in the faces of the children as they marched along. (NOTE: This VCR tape was provided to the Seojong Elementary School to be used in their education programs of the 1950s periods history with the permission of Robert Evilsizor.)

Though elementary education was "compulsory," the truth was the government had neither the resources nor the teachers to implement such a program. At that time, if you were a high school graduate, you were qualified to be an elementary school teacher. "Government-endorsed" schools were set up in a system where the government would provide the buildings (many times tents donated by the American military) or unheated-buildings and approximately 25 percent of the funding. The parents would "donate" the difference.

In this void many missionary and church schools moved in to fill the void to help the poor people be educated. The missionary schools have a long history in Korea dating back to the late 1800s starting in Pyeongyang and spreading to the other major cities and treaty ports. At that time, the yangban upper classes were educated, but the poor were left uneducated. The same appears to be true in the Songtan area in the 1950s. The "haves" (no matter how meager) went to the government schools, while the poor went to the "church" schools. The emphasis was simply on learning to read and write Hangul (Korean), but the education starved Koreans flocked to these schools which operated sometimes in shifts to handle both children and adults.


(L) Songbuk Elementary School (1955) (R) 50th Anniversary Ceremony (1 April 2005) (Songbuk Elementary School)


In 1955, the Songbuk Elementary School was opened to handle the growing student population with three one-story wooden structures with tile roofs. Its construction followed the pattern of a large playground below and the school elevated along the side of a hill or mountain. The buildings had a long hallway at the front and classrooms connected to these rooms. In 1956, the Hyomyeon Middle School was built in the area. (NOTE: See Compulsory Elementary School Education in the Songtan area for details of educational system in 1950-1960s. Photos of Songbuk Elementary from 1955 to the present are included in the combined chronological history of Osan AB & Songtan. )

1960s

Early 1960s In the early 1960s, housing was at a premium and soon more houses were spreading up the side of the hills towards the "town center" in Songbuk dong. The houses were still a mix of mudwattle houses (choga chip) and mudbrick and stucco houses. However, the shanty town look of the area was slowly disappearing -- though the buildings were still not the sturdiest construction -- as more of the buildings were constructed of wood.

On the Chicol Village side the rice fields were slowly disappearing as the houses encroached on the fields and the rice fields were reclaimed. After the first water mains were laid, the communal well near where the Young Chon Hotel is today was capped.


Benjo ditch between houses (Circa 1960) (51st FW Archives)


(L) Chicol Village area with houses encroaching on rice fields. The rice fields is supposed to be where the Young Chon Hotel would later be built. (Circa 1960) (51st FW Archives) (R) Another view of the houses encroaching of rice fields. Notice the mix of mudwattle homes and more modern mudbrick and stucco houses. The one home with a tile roof stands out while others are with transite (corrugated concrete/asbestoes) or corrugated iron roofs. Notice that most have outdoor cooking areas. (Circa 1960) (51st FW Archives)


The houses now spread up the hill to the Milwal-dong area and right towards the Hill 180 gate in the Shinchang-dong and Jokbong-ni area. In this area, the houses were tightly packed with small alleyways.

In the Chicol Village area to the left as one exited the Main Gate, the large Haesong Dan