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SONGTAN HISTORY

Songtan Background

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Acknowledgement: Special thanks to Jack Terwiel, Capt, USAF (Ret) of the Osan Retired Activities Office for photos of base (past and present) -- Dan Klopten, Robert Furrer, Robert Evilsizor, Ron Freedman, Harry Tezlaf and Ken Shallenbarger. Special thanks to Jackie Turner, 7th AF Historian, and John Okonski, 51st FW Historian, for their assistance with photos and guidance on the history of Osan AB. Thanks to Curly Knepp, Maj, USAF (Ret) for his photos and direction in uncovering the history of the area. Thanks to Don Tomajan for his comments, photos and assistance on the EAB history in 1952-1954. Thanks to Bob Spiwak for his narratives and photos of life at Osan AB in 1953.

Special thanks to Mr. Oh Sun-soo, Victoria Hotel, for his information on the early development of Songtan. Special thanks to Mr. Jim Price, AIG Insurance, for his sharing of his experiences during his long residence in Songtan. Special thanks to Mr. Yi Kyong Chu, Kasey Lee's Tailors, for his help and guidance in assembling this history. Special thanks to Mr. Son Kwang-chil, Hanyang Kalbi, and Mr. Yi N.K, Korea Hotel, for providing information of the early days of the Milwal-dong area. Thanks to Mr. Kim Sang-do, Electronic Repair Shop, and Mr. Jeong Tae-ho, Young Chon Hotel, for their help in providing information of the early days of the Young Chon Alley area. Thanks to Mr. Kwon Oh-hoon, Dong Sung Realty, for his help on the local area history. Special thanks to Mr. Kim Jae-won, Asia Hotel for his help in providing a wealth of information on the local area.

Special thanks to Ms. Jin Dal-lae and other staff members of the Jisan-dong Ward Office for taking the time to research and provide historical materials on Songtan and Pyongtaek City. Thanks to the Shinjang 1-dong Ward Office for taking time to provide information on the roads in the area. Thanks to the Seojong-dong Ward Office staff and Chief of the ward Office, Choi Yun-su, for their help in providing maps to unravel the confusing boundary issues. Much of the information on Pyongtaek City and the Songtan area was extracted from the Pyeongtaek City History, Pyeongtaek Si Sa.

Thanks to the Songbuk Elementary School for permission to use their photos from their private collection. Thanks to staff of the Songshin Elementary, Taegwang Middle School and Taegwang High School staff for their help in their histories. Special thanks to the Mr. Kim Jong-youp, Vice-Principal of the Hyomyung Middle School and Ms. Choi Jeong-min for their assistance with the history of Hyomyung Middle School and High School. Special thanks to the Mr. Park Hyun-jong, Vice Principal of the Seojong Elementary School, and the staff including Ms. Choi Yun-young, Mr. Kim Hyong-ill and Ms. Pae Eun-hui, for their assistance in assembling the history of Seojong Elementary School.


View of Osan AB (USAF Photo)


THIS IS A WORK IN-PROGRESS AND FACTS ARE BEING ADDED/DELETED DURING THIS PROCESS. THIS IS NOT A COMPLETED HISTORY.

Songtan Background:

The beginnings of Songtan can be traced directly to the construction of Osan AB. Though Seojong-ni Village existed in the area, it was not associated with the development of Songtan where the populations were first attracted by the employment associated with the base. In addition, there were villages within the area that had recorded histories dating to the late Koryo period and Chosun Dynasty.

Geographic Data of Songtan Over the centuries, Korea's inhabitants cut down most of the ancient Korean forests, with the exception of a few remote, mountainous areas. The disappearance of the forests has been a major cause of soil erosion and flooding. Because of successful reforestation programs and the declining use of firewood as a source of energy since the 1960s, most of South Korea's hills in the 1980s were amply covered with foliage. In the 1920s, the Japanese started a reforestation station in Suwon which was one of the few successes of the Japanese Public Works system. The Pinus Rigada (pitch pitch) was the tree used because of its rapid growth and ability to survive in unfavorable soil conditions. However, any successes were wiped out in WWII when the Japanese requirement for wood for the war effort soared. During Military Government years during the Occupation, the Military Government reinitiated the reforestation program following the Japanese model and again it proved to be one of the few successes of the Military Government. After the Korean War, the government distributed seedlings and seeds to again reforest the landscape. In the Songtan area, farmers were given tree seedlings in the 1970s to plant along their hillsides -- mostly fast growing varieties such as cottonwood or weeping willows (along streams or low-lying areas). The main forest trees within the Songtan area are the Pinus Rigada (Pitch Pine) and Acacia trees.

South Korea has no extensive plains; its lowlands are the product of mountain erosion. Approximately 30 percent of the area of South Korea consists of lowlands, with the rest consisting of uplands and mountains. The great majority of the lowland area lies along the coasts, particularly the west coast, and along the major rivers. The most important lowlands are the Han River plain around Seoul, the Pyongt'aek coastal plain southwest of Seoul, the Kum River basin, the Naktong River basin, and the Yongsan and the Honam plains in the southwest. A narrow littoral plain extends along the east coast. (Source: 1uptravel.com)

Three separate valleys merge near Osan Air Base to form a relatively large flat basin about 5 miles (9 km) long and 2-4 miles (4-7 km) wide. The undulating hills that border these valleys rise to heights of 600 feet (183 meters). The Chinwi River flows westward parallel to the runway, and joins the Hwanggai-Chon River 1 mile (2 km) west of the field. The Yellow Sea is approximately 12 miles (22 km) due west, with one inlet to the southwest coming within 6 miles (11 km) of the base. The base is also surrounded by rice paddies, which enhance the already abundance moisture sources affecting the area. As the amount of moisture available would indicate, fog is one of the major forecast problems for Osan Air Base. The hills from the northwest through east through southwest shield Osan from most strong winds, but also tend to produce mechanical turbulence when low-level winds are in excess of 15-20 knots. Wind flow between 260-300 degrees is practically unimpeded allowing strong moisture advection from the Yellow Sea. This often results in sea fog and stratus during the spring and fall.

Part of the East Asian monsoonal region, South Korea has a temperate climate with four distinct seasons. The movement of air masses from the Asian continent exerts greater influence on South Korea's weather than does air movement from the Pacific Ocean. Winters are usually long, cold, and dry, whereas summers are short, hot, and humid. Spring and autumn are pleasant but short in duration. Seoul's mean temperature in January is -5° C to - 2.5° C; in July the mean temperature is about 22.5° C to 25° C. (NOTE: Use following link for current Osan AB weather. 1Up Travel - Weather Forecast.)

South Korea is less vulnerable to typhoons than Japan, Taiwan, the east coast of China, or the Philippines. From one to three typhoons can be expected per year -- but the typhoons usually veer east as it approaches Korea and passes up the strait between Korea and Japan -- touching Cheju and the Pusan area before heading to sea. Rarely does the typhoon's full-force pass over land. Typhoons pass over South Korea in late summer, especially in August, and bring torrential rains. Flooding occasionally causes considerable damage -- but the southeast areas are the most impacted. However, the torrential rains causes flooding in the Pyongtaek area. Before flood control mechanisms were installed along the Chonwi-chi River near Kunsan AB, the low-lying river would overflow its banks with regularity.

Protected species that reside in the Songtan area includes the following:
    ·
  • Specified Wild Species Suwon tree frog ·
  • Specified Wild Species Green frog ·
  • Natural Monuments/Cultural Property Brown hawk owl ·
  • Rare and Endangered Species Crested lark
(Source: Pyeongtaek Si Sa (Pyeontack City History), and Osan AB: Conservation)

Geographic Data of Osan AB Osan Air Base (37°05'N, 127°02'E) is located in a section of South Korea known as the western lowlands. The low-land features of the surrounding terrain end rather abruptly north and northeast of the air base. Hills and mountains cover about 75 percent of Korea, with the remainder covered by scattered lowlands. Most of the rivers are short, swift, and shallow due to topography, narrowness, and sand deposits within the river. Three well-defined ridges begin approximately 11 miles (20 km) north through northeast from Osan Air Base. They are oriented north-south, with heights varying from 1,600-2,000 feet (488-610 meters). More gradual terrain changes occur east through south of the base for about 25 miles (46 km). However, even in this area of general gradual sloping, conditions, some isolated hilltops do extend to 1,000 (305 meters). An irregular chain of mountains with heights to 2,200 feet (671 meters) lies 25 miles (46 km) east-southeast through south of the base. The western rim of the Southern Taebaek and Sobaek mountain ranges lie 40 miles (74 km) northeast through southeast of the base.

Osan AB is located 38 miles south of Seoul, the capital of the Republic of Korea, near the west coast of the Korean peninsula. The installation is also approximately 70 miles south of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) which divides North Korea from the southern republic. Another part of Osan AB is the Alpha Site, an 88 acre munitions storage facility located in a hilly area about two miles south of the base. Osan AB occupies 1,661 acres of the Chinwi River Valley and lies adjacent to Pyongtaek City. The installation's eastern and southern boundaries are urban residential/commercial properties or ROKAF facilities. On the western and northeastern boundaries are rice paddies. The Chinwi River and its floodplain run the length of most of the northern boundary. (Source: Osan AB: Conservation)

The lay of the land may have played a major part in the decision for selecting this area.
  • (a). First, the engineer would have been looking for availability of transportation to include roads (MSR-1) and especially RAILROAD connections because of munitions and Pusan resupply. This would have been a major factor and explains why the FIRST permanent structure on Osan AB (K-55) was the long warehouse (now across from the BX) with railroad tracks running directly up to it as well as the POL tank area.

  • (b). Another factor was probably the defensibility based upon experiences of the battles fought in the area in July 1950. From the Osan-ni hills, one could see eight miles to Suwon. The enemy would have to approach over the flat basin and could be attacked from defensible positions of the surrounding hills.

  • (c) The third factor would have been finding an area where the prevailing winds pointed in a direction where aircraft would have sufficient clearance for safe take off/landing operations. In addition, the end-of-runway over-run areas would have to be sufficiently clear of geological obstacles. The prevailing pointed up the Jinwi Valley area providing a long and gentle glide-slope for landing. At the east end of the runway, the land was generally low-lying and flat as a tidal flood plain of the Chinwi River. The overrun areas were farm land without any major urban development nearby such as in Kimpo -- and having a 3-mile exclusionary zone. The wide alluvial plain formed by the Chinwi River stretches up to Yongin without any obstacles.

  • The fourth factor would be POL resupply from tankers using the West Sea. The line for the "invasion pipe" (small diameter pipe line) was from the Anjung-Pyeongtaek harbor area, a distance of 12 km. (The major POL depot at Inchon would have been too far.) The line would have run from up to Osan-ni and then turned to follow the MSR-1 to Osan AB.
Building of the Kyongbu Railway Line The Kyongbu Railway was built by the Japanese and ran from Kaesong to Pusan. It was the main internal transportation artery for Korea of the time. Alongside this rail line, a road was constructed that followed the railway line and formed the backbone for the road network for the nation. Though the roads were dirt and poorly maintained, it would be the groundwork for the future growth of a national road system.

According to a Colliers' article (Feb 20, 1904) The Theatre of War by Cyrus C. Adams, there was no railway system in 1904. The article gives some insight into the physical conditions and almost complete lack of infrastructure in Korea. It also shows how Korea's fate was being determined by outside nations...not Korea. It also shows that the Japanese immigration was in full-swing with the harbor of Won-san (Gen-san) "practically a Japanese town as its inhabitants are primarily Japanese immigrants." In an illustration accompanying the article, it shows the incomplete railway system between Pusan and Seoul. (For the full text, go Collier's 1904 article .)

"Warfare Difficult in Korea -- Northern Japan is thinly settled, most of the millions of inhabitants living in the provinces of the southern two-thirds of the empire. The result is that a vital blow could not be inflicted upon the empire in the north. Anyhow, an invasion by Russia seems unlikely to occur.

It is repeatedly predicted that Korea will be the chief land base of the war. The peninsula is plainly in view from the large Japanese island of Tsu-shima in the Korean Strait. A more unpromising field for military operations could be imagined. The penisula is covered with mountains and difficult of penetration. There are no made roads, except in the neighborhood of two or three major towns. The tracks are mere bridle paths, and sometimes only the rocky bed of a mountain torrent.

Steamboats attempt to ply only on two of the navigable rivers. Occasionally small steamers ascend the Naktong River from Fusan to Miriang, fifty miles, and small vessels ply on the Han River to within three miles of Seoul, the capital, from its port, Chemulpo. The distressing lack of internal communication should stimulate the building of railroads, but the progress in that direction has been very slow. The road from Fusan to Seoul, a Japanese enterprise, is only in operation a few miles out of Seoul and twenty-five miles out of Fusan. The Japanese regret their dilatoriness, and are now bending every energy to complete the connection between the two towns. The French have a concession to connect Seoul with Wi-ju by rail, but the work has scarcely begun. The only completed railroad, built by the Americans, but now owned by Japanese, unites Seoul with Chemulpo.

Korea has only a handful of troops and no fortification worthy of mention. Every considerable port is a treaty port, and thus its capture might involve political difficulties. It is fortunate for Japan that Russia did not succeed in her strenuous efforts to secure Masanpo on the south coast for a naval station in Korea waters, though Great Britain occupied Port Hamilton in 1885 to anticipate a Russian seizure.

The east and west coast ports differ greatly in character. On the east coast, the mountains extending in many places to the sea, are pierced at several points by fine harbors, with only a weak tide and open year round. They are suitable for the entrance of large warships. The west coast ports, on the other hand, are nothing but shallow and tortuous inlets shielded by small islands and alternately filled or emptied by tides that rises twenty-five to forty feet. They are not suitable for naval operations. The largest steamers can not enter Chemulpo harbor, and small vessels caught in the outgoing tides are propped on the mud flats till the tide comes in again. The harbors of Fusan and Won-san (Gen-san) -- practically a Japanese town as its inhabitants are primarily Japanese immigrants -- occupying deep and sheltered bays, could provide anchorage for immense armadas, and so could the still undeveloped harbor of Masanpo. But their hinterland would afford very difficult traveling for armies and the poverty-stricken farmers provide little more than enough to supply their own needs.

The map shows the position of Chinese territory between Korea Bay and the Gulf of Liaotung, which is leased to Russia for twenty-five years, and is dominated at the south end by the naval station of Port Arthur, in the harbor in which the first battle of this war was fought. All facilities for the coaling and repair of ships are provided here. The Japanese captured Port Arthur in the war with China, but the successful pressure the powers exerted to compel the restoration of this strategical postion to China, had the final result of delivering it into the hands of Russia.
The American built line from the Seoul area to Chemulpo (Inchon) in 1899. Thus we see that in 1904, there was no railroad connecting Seoul to Pusan -- and the work was still in progress. In 1904, the Japanese had completed the Kyongbu line to Taejon -- and the Seojongni Station and the Pyongtaek Station were opened. (Source: Pyeongtaek History (CD), Pyeongtaek Si Sa) The work to complete the line to Pusan continued.

The rail lines were completed to connect the three most important junctions in Korea: (1) Seoul; (2) Pusan; and (3) Taejon. On January 1, 1905 the Kyeongbu line (Seoul - Busan) opened. The Kyongbu rail line connecting Seoul to Pusan was completed -- along with a road that basically followed the route of the the rail line.

Then January 11, 1914 the Honam line from Daejeon - Mokpo opened. A spur line from Iksan on the Honam line connected to Kunsan. The lines expanded and it would connect the industrial areas of North Korea and Pyongyang through Kaesong to Yongdongpo. (NOTE: On February 1, 1943, the Railroad Administration Bureau restructured into Department of Transportation. It would become the Korea National Railroad in 1963.) (Source: Korean National Railroad (KNR))

The system of railways and bridges which linked Korea with Manchuria was substantially completed by 1928, when Korea was also linked with Tokyo and Dairen by regular air flights. Theis meant that for the first time it was possible to exchange the products of the north and the south, and thus to introdue some division of labor and diversification fo the economy.


Railway Map (2002) NOTE: The Kyongbu-san line running from Seoul to Taejon to Pusan is the ORIGINAL Japanese line (Feisu line) starting from Yongdongpo to Taejon to Pusan. The Americans built the original line to Inchon.


The two track railroad line stopped at Seojong-ni (Sojang-ni) and a railyard siding existed for railcars to be loaded with the rice and other products for transshipment to Japan.

Pyeongtaek



On 10 May 1995, Songtan City (shi), Pyeongtaek City (shi) and Pyeongtaek Ward (gun) were abolished and an "urbanan agricultural" Pyeongtaek City (shi) was established by Law No. 4048. This law established five urban agricultrual cities, including Pyeongtaek City, Kyonggi-do.

Pyongtaek City (meaning "Flat City") consists of:
  • Anjung-myeon (Anjung-eup (town))
  • Bijeon 1(il)-dong
  • Bijeon 2(i)-dong
  • Cheongnyong-dong
  • Cheongbuk-myeon
  • Chilgoe-dong (Songtan - Industrial area) (meaning "Seven Pagoda Tree")
  • Chilwon-dong (Songtan - Industrial area) (meaning "Seven Institute")
  • Doil-dong (Songtan - Industrial area) (meaning "Road Day")
  • Dokgok-dong
  • Dongsak-dong
  • Gajae-dong (Songtan - Industrial area)
  • Godeok-myeon
  • Gunmun-dong
  • Hyeondeok-myeon
  • Ichung-dong (Songtan area) (meaning "Two Loyalties")
  • Jangdang-dong (Songtan area) (meaning "Hall")
  • Jangan-dong
  • Jije-dong
  • Jinwi-myeon (meaning "Swing Dignity Aspect")
  • Jisan-dong (Songtan area) (meaning "Shibayama")
  • Jukbaek-dong
  • Oseong-myeon
  • Poseung-myeon
  • Seojong-dong (Songtan area) (meaning "West Well")
  • Segyo-dong
  • Seotan-myeon (meaning "West Charcoal surface")
  • Sinjang 1(il)-dong (Songtan area) (meaning "New Market Place")
  • Sinjang 2(i)-dong (Songtan area) (meaning "New Market Place")
  • Sinpyeong-dong
  • Songtan-dong (Songtan area) (meaning "Pine Charcoal")
  • Songbuk-dong (Songtan area) (meaning "Pine North")
  • Hapjeong-dong
  • Mogok-dong (Songtan - Industrial area) (meaning "Saw Grass Valley")
  • Pyeongtaek-dong
  • Sosa-dong
  • Sindae-dong
  • Tongbok-dong
  • Wolgok-dong
  • Wonpyeong-dong
  • Yongi-dong
  • Yucheon-dong
(Source: Korean Info and Hangul.) (Source: Translation of name www.korea-go.to.)

Pyeongtaek View of Osan AB Authority: According to the Pyeongtaek Si Sa, the US military at Osan AB are Korea's allies and provide a great service in defending South Korea. Therefore, the base must be assisted wherever possible to fulfill this mission. However, there are problems that have arisen in recent years that have strained this relationship. First, there is the problem with an unjust SOFA agreement. Second, there are the problems dealing with noise pollution from the fighter jets stationed there. Third, there is a continuing problem with the potential for oil spills that can spread off-base. Fourth, there is a problem with Pyeongtaek having no say in new construction on Osan AB (size, height restrictions, etc.) as these fall under Memorandum of Agreements with the Ministry of Defense. (Source: Pyeongtaek City History CD, "Pyeongtaek Si Sa.")

A major dispute in 1996 between Pyeongtaek City and Osan AB arose over a unpaid water bill. Supposedly the "Songtan American Base" owed 1,060,000,000 won (about $1,000,000) for water services. According to Pyeongtaek City, the base refused to pay the bill -- though they were aware that the bill was due for 1 year and three months. Later the Pyeongtaek stated that the bill was 2 billion 50 million. (Source: Pyeongtaek City History CD, "Pyeongtaek Si Sa.") However, the base stated that the ROK provided a portion of the costs for the water and under the cost-sharing formula, the bill was grossly inaccurate.

The base contended that there were overcharges and there were also questions over the cost-sharing percentages for the water consumption as the ROKAF was stationed on the base. On 3 May 1996, there was a protest at the Shijang Main Gate to Osan AB.

This problem dragged on for a period of years and was finally resolved through the ROK government intervention. The problem was quietly resolved without any of the details being publicly announced. It appears that the Ministry of Defense interceded -- as they were supposed to in the first place -- and resolved the conflict.

Another dispute arose over Pyeongtaek seeking to recover the land set aside for the move to Osan of Yongsan Garrison units in 1990 under a Memorandum of Agreement. The subsequent "foot-dragging" on the part of the ROK government over funding the move caused the move not to take place. After a decade of inaction, the Pyeongtaek government petitioned for the return of the lands in 1999. Swiftly the ROKAF gained control of the lands and built the new AOC on it. Like the Seoul City and Yongsan Garrison situation, Osan AB construction is controlled through approvals of the Ministry of Defense and effectively eliminates any city control over what goes on on base. This lack of control to enforce city ordinances on the base continues to rankle the city authorities.

Pyeongtaek also continues to complain about its inability to control the construction height of buildings on Osan AB. Instead, the approval of new construction is through the Ministry of Defense -- without the Pyeongtaek City having any authority. (NOTE: This is the same for Yongsan Garrison construction of apartments that were not approved by the Seoul City government -- much to their anger.)

(NOTE: People may not remember but in 1991 when the Memorandum of Agreement between the ROK and US was first signed Pyeongtaek City's Mayor and all the City Council did NOT want the move of the USFK forces from Yongsan moving into their area. Over the years, the Pyeongtaek area has had some serious crimes committed mostly bt the Army in the area, so the populace were not so enthusiastic about having more US Army personnel move into the area. Because the ROK could not find any place to move the Yongsan people, everything returned to the status quo. A decade later, the move to Pyeongtaek's K-6 (Camp Humphreys) is underway -- but now the Mayor is more muted on the matter.)

Below the Surface Friction between Pyeongtaek and Songtan: After the Songtan City was incorporated into Pyeongtaek in 1991, there was great optimism. Many felt that by combining the two areas into a large urban-agricultural city, Songtan would benefit from the growth. Instead, some community leaders are starting to voice opinions that after over a decade under Pyeongtaek, Songtan has been "short-changed." (Source: Verbal Conversations with business owners and community leaders in the Shinjang-dong, Jisan-dong and Seojong-dong areas by Kalani O'Sullivan between Jul-Sep 2005.)

Some community leaders voice opinions that there has been no new apartment construction in Songtan since 1995. Instead, all the new construction is towards the Pyeongtaek end of the city.


Pyeongtaek City (Pyeongtaek City)


The cartoon above was in the Pyeongtaek Times in 2002, but illustrates the friction between the two communities. The cartoon deals with the election of legislators to the National Assembly. The first element the Songtan faction says, "We have 8 people, but Pyeongtaek has 13 people." The second frame shows the Songtan head crying, "We have lost." The third frame shows the Pyeongtaek faction taking away the Songtan horse. This is the view of some Songtan community leaders who feel that Pyeongtaek is stacking the deck -- in hopes that Songtan will fade away as a bygone memory.

When some community leaders were asked why Osan City looked more "modern" than the Songtan area, some leaders stated that before the incorporation, each of the cities -- Osan City, Songtan City, and Pyeongtaek City -- had about the same amount of monies allocated from the government to spur growth in the communities. However, after the incorporation of Songtan into Pyeongtaek City, the combined budget was skewed to favor the building up of Pyeongtaek FIRST. The impression is that Songtan has been "short-changed." Thus the growth in the local area has been in Osan City and Pyeongtaek -- with Songtan stagnating. (Source: Verbal Conversations with business owners and community leaders in the Shinjang-dong, Jisan-dong and Seojong-dong areas by Kalani O'Sullivan between Jul-Sep 2005.)

In the creating of the local, regional and national industrial parks in the local area, Pyeongtaek split off Godeok, Doil, Kajae and Jajae. This left only the Songtan local Industrial area in Jangdang-dong (within Jungang-dong). Some seem to feel that Pyeongtaek has whittled away the areas that were traditionally a part of Songtan to consolidate the power under Pyeongtaek City. Instead, it has left Songtan as an area with only the Special Tourism Zone -- something that is almost totally dependent upon military patronage. Some view this as a way of Pyeongtaek denying Songtan of its share of the growth.

To refute these claims of "no apartment construction," it was pointed out that there is new apartment construction under way in Jungang-dong and Ichung-dong. However, many older locals strangely seemed to consider the Jangang and Jangdang areas as part of Pyeongtaek -- not Songtan. (Source: Verbal Conversations with business owners and community leaders in the Shinjang-dong, Jisan-dong and Seojong-dong areas by Kalani O'Sullivan between Jul-Sep 2005.)

Even now there seems to be a low-key move on the part of Shinjang community leaders to gain the area of Seojong-dong on the west side of the Kyongbu Railway -- and turn it over to the Shinjang 2-dong. The local pride of "Songtan City" has not died out yet -- and there will continue to be below the surface friction into the future as the community attempts to spur new growth in the area. This feeling of reestablishing the Songtan area to prominence is strongest from the Shinjang area business community leaders. (Source: Verbal Conversations with business owners and community leaders in the Shinjang-dong, Jisan-dong and Seojong-dong areas by Kalani O'Sullivan between Jul-Sep 2005.)

NOTE: According to the Stars and Stripes on 8 March 2005, ROK planners was to be scouting the Pyongtaek area looking for areas for incorporating an "international city" with facilities and schools for foreigners. What we find interesting is that the search will concentrate on the Songtan area -- NOT in the Anjung-ni area near Camp Humphreys. However, after the March 2005 announcement there was not much else heard of this project as there was growing protest over the relocation to Pyeongtaek (Camp Humphreys) from NGO groups -- AND the condemning of land to provide for the expansion of Camp Humphreys. Part of the Korea Land Corporation's (KLC) task was to convince the public of this move's benefits -- but little has been heard. The review of potential sites was to be completed in Feb 2006, but the Pyeongtaek City officials wanted the announcement of feasibility by the end of 2005. If an area close to Songtan were chosen, this could possibly reestablish Songtan to prominence -- and even as a "separate" city again.





Pyeongtaek City (Pyeongtaek City)

Pyeongtaek City (Pyeongtaek City)



Pyongtaek City Hall (Pyeongtaek City)

Anjung Branch City Hall (Pyeongtaek City)



Songtan Branch City Hall (Pyeongtaek City) (NOTE: Kaiser Pink is the color that the city chose -- a rather strange choice. Overpasses, street structions, etc from the mid-2000s are painted this color. Color no longer used.)



Pyeongtaek Meeting Hall (Pyeongtaek City)



Pyeongtaek City Council (Pyeongtaek City)

Pyeongtaek Police Station (Pyeongtaek City)



Pyeongtaek Train Station (Pyeongtaek City)

Chonguk Ulo Fish Market (Pyeongtaek City)



Pyeongtaek City Council (Pyeongtaek City)

Wholesale Market (Pyeongtaek City)



Planted Flowers along Route 38 (Pyeongtaek City)

Kyongbu Highway Interchange (Pyeongtaek City)



Tongbuk Farmer's Market (Pyeongtaek City)



Jinwi Moobong Youth Hall Swimming Pool (Pyeongtaek City)
(NOTE: Next to Mangi-sa Temple and hiking trails into the Moobong Mountains.)



Nong Ak Farmer's Dance (Pyeongtaek City)

Nong Ak Farmer's Dance (Pyeongtaek City)



Nong Ak Farmer's Dance (Pyeongtaek City)

Nong Ak Farmer's Dance (Pyeongtaek City)



Nong Ak Farmer's Dance (Pyeongtaek City)


Pyeongtaek Nong-ak (Instrumental Music of Peasants) Nong-ak, also called Pungmul, consists of Utdari Pungmul of Gyeonggi and Chungcheong province, Udo Pungmul of Honam plains, Jwado Pungmul of mountainous region of Honam, Yeongnam Pungmul, and Yeongdong Pungmul, etc.

Pyeongtaek Pungmul, which is a representative Utdari Pungmul of Gyeonggi and Chungcheong province, is a Pungmulnori that combines the Dure band tradition of the Maeulnori Pungmul that has been long played in the province, with the professional theatrical character of Geolip band, who showed Pungmul and acrobatic feats touring Gyeonggi and Chungcheong province.

Pungmul with Dure band characteristics consists of Jisin Bapgi early in January, Duregut during the farming season, etc., and the traditional theatrical Pungmul consists of Nanjanggut at markets, Geolip to raise money for constructing big bridges or temples, Pungmulnori that showed play and acrobatic feats touring various places to raise the public fund for village, etc.

In Pungmul here, about ten tunes are played in diverse and protean variations mainly using gong, drum, Jing (another type of gong), Changku, small drum, taepyeongso, etc., and the tune of Pungmul is generally fast, dynamic and cheerful. Pangutmadang, in which about thirty people play, is energetic and splendid. Particularly, Mudongnori unfolded in various fashions is very excellent and is an intangible cultural property succeeding the tradition of our country's Pungmul from the early age.

(Source: Pyeongtaek City Pyeongtaek Nong-ak Conservation Society: 242-1 Paengseong eup, Pyeonggoong ri)

Songtan Administrative areas

The Songtan area is bordered on the north by Seotan-myeon and Jinwi-Myeon; on the south by Godeok-myeon and Pyeongtaek City; on the east by Yeongkam-myeon, Hwaseong City; and on the west by Hwanguk-myeon, Yongin City. In 2005, the Songtan area was made up of eight dongs: Shinjang 1-dong; Shinjang 2-dong; Jisan-dong; Seojong-dong; Songbuk-dong; Ichung-dong; Jungang-dong; and Songtan-dong. Under the Songtan-dong area is Mokgok; Chilgoe; Gajae; Chilwon and Doil.

The Songtan started as an area after K-55 was constructed in 1952 by the relocating four villages. Before Osan AB was constructed the Shinjang-ni village area was to the north side of the End of Runway. It was portions of it was relocated when the base perimeter road was built. However, the village was still shown on aerial photos well into the 1980s and then disappeared. Namsan Village was along the perimeter; Mokcheon-ni was near the railroad tracks; and Chicol-ni outside the Main Gate. On the opposite side of the base, Shin-Yari and Yari were relocated -- as well as the village of Chok-bong on-base. There were also smaller unnamed hamlets that were relocated as well.

The initial road was cut from the MSR-1 (Main Supply Route 1 or Route 1) to the base to the Back Gate Road area to move the heavy equipment onto the base. A rail spur was constructed to the area of the Bravo Gate area and from then on, heavy equipment and munitions were brought in by rail. The initial back gate road was no longer used as Co. A 839th EAB completed the Shinjang Mall Road to the Main Gate area. However, the opening of the Main Gate area was delayed as they started to quarry the northern tip (starting at Alabama Road) in 1952. The EAB used the "freight gate" (below the Songtan Catholic Church) temporarily as the EAB chopped away the northern tip of Hill 180 in three "benches" (or tiers) until they had carved out the area near the Commissary and carved out a road to the Main Gate on a more reasonable incline. By 1953, the Main Gate opened and from this point on, the "freight gate" was no longer used.

The MSR-1 Bypass road was built by an 8th Army Engineer Unit (unit unknown) in 1952 to bypass the congestion created by the Osan AB construction. It started as Songtan Market Road and ran past where the Express Bus Terminal is today. It continued straight to Seojong-ni (Shinseon Road) and rejoined with the original MSR-1 past Seojong-ni. It appears that the road up to the top of the ridgeline and the Terminal Ridge Road was built at the same time. The widening of the MSR-1 (Tanhyeon Road) ended at the top of the ridgeline.

After the Main Gate was constructed, the village outside the gate was known as "Chico-ville" (Chicol-ni). Actually However, the locals referred to the farmer village to the left of the gate as Chicol-ni and called the shanty town to the right as "Chong-mun eup" (Front Gate Town). The small hill to the right of where the Bravo Gate is now was used as the bomb dump with earth culverts dug into the side of the hill. A perimeter fence was constructed to separate it from the Namsan Village area.

People seeking work moved into the area -- mostly North Korean refugees -- and tightly packed houses ran up the side of Milwal Road and down into the Shinjang 2-dong area. (NOTE: Shinjang 2-dong was not established until the 2000s.) They then spread into the Shinchang-dong and Jokbong-ni areas. These people found work mostly as coolie labor hired on a daily basis -- but others with English language skills found work as typists or translators. (NOTE: The missionary schools in Pyeongyang and Seoul had been teaching English to the disenfranchised poor since the late 1800s.) Lucky ones found work doing the laundry and carrying for the billets as "housegirls." Others found work as contractors hauling away the trash or doing menial labor.

As the base grew, so did the population outside the base. By the late 1950s, the buildings of the Chicol-ni shanty town started to become more substantial as the tar paper roofed and cardboard box sides gave way to transite (concrete and asbestos) roofs with wooden walls made from salvaged lumber. Soon after the town started to spread up the sides of the ridge line and along the MSR-1. By 1958, the town had its first one-engine fire department and a police box was established at the intersection of Shinjang Mall Road and Tanhyeon Road (MSR-1).

Before 1960, the Shinjang-area was known as "Jae Yok-dong" and in 1960 became Shinjang-dong meaning "New Market Place." 1962, a Shinjang Branch Office was established and in 1963, Songtan-myeon was raised to the status of Songtan-eup (town), Pyeongtaek-gun. From this point on, the term "Chico-ville" (Chicol Village) was no longer commonly used -- though some references to Chicol Village appeared in the base paper into the 1970s. The area outside the gates was commonly referred to as "Songtan" by the Americans.

Shinjang Road to the overpass was not constructued until 1978. There were four paths into the Shinjang 2-dong area. (1) The first was the present Jungang Market Alley that starts at the Shinjang Mall Road and curves left to the Jungang Open Market. (2) The second starts at Shinjang Mall Road and Fashion Alley (Myongdong Road) and curves to the overpass area to the area of the Songtan Tourist Hotel. After about 100 feet it veered right and followed a curving path to the front of the Shinsong Elementary School in the Songwang area. (NOTE: None of the landmarks that were mentioned existed in 1960s, but many 1960s-era homes still exist that mark this path.) (3) The third path first went behind the house of Mr. Oh Sun-soo to the right outside of the Main Gate. (Source: 1957 Photo of Main Gate area) It continued across to the alleyway at the rear of the Asia Hotel parking lot. It ran along the side of the Milwal hill at the present Prince Hotel and continued down to the area of the Songwang Church (Onnori Church). The path continued until the end of the housing at the base of the hill where the Jaeil Church is now located. (NOTE: The path near the Main Gate remains as the diagonal alleyway from the behind the 7-11 to the Shinjang Overpass Road. The narrow alley at the rear of the Asia Hotel Parking lot intersects with Milwal Road coming down from the Capital Hotel. Older residents say the path went up side of the hill at this point. One street down, there is a narrow side road on the side of the hill to mark this route to the Songwang area. Along this route, 1960s era houses are still seen, though upgraded.) (4) The fourth was a road that started at the Main Gate and went behind a farm house. (Source: 1957 photo of Main Gate area) The path cut diagonally to the base of Milwal Road, then a narrow dirt path rutted by water runoff. At the top of the hill, it veered right as the Hill 180 Gate Road that followed the perimeter. The houses started to be not so cramped along this narrow dirt path until one reached the Hill 180 Gate at Makum-ni. (NOTE: Milwal Road was "straightened to cut directly to the Main Gate. All that remains of the diagonal path is the alleyway just outside the Main Gate today. The road at the Y near the Capital Hotel leading to the Songtan Subway Road would not be built until the late 1970s.)

By the 1970s, the shops started to crowd in on MSR-1 and the MSR-1 Bypass up to the Terminal Ridge Road. The last of the rice fields in the Chicol-ni area between Aragon Alley and Young Chon Alley was reclaimed and new cinderblock constructions were built in the reclaimed area and along Mokcheon Road near the Kyongbu Railway.

In the late 1970s, the area underwent a large-scale reconstruction period tearing down the old structures and replacing them with more modern buildings. Under orders from President Park Chung-hee, the major roads were straightened and widened. Others were laid out in a grid pattern cutting swaths through crowded areas. The narrow overpasses at Songtan Subway Road and the road below the Taegwang Middle School were built in the early 1970s. The Songtan Subway Road overpass was widened in 1977 and the overpass completed in 1978. The Shinjang Road Overpass construction was started in 1977 and completed in 1978. Many of the new buildings were constructed using red fire bricks, while older concrete structures were "upgraded" with exterior ceramic tile facings.

In the 1980s, the area surrounding K-55 (Osan AB) began to expand as factories and small-sized businesses moved into the area. However, because the Shinjang-area was a one-economy area (K-55 based income), it really did not benefit from the Miracle of the Han -- except to see the GI "wealth" dwindle while Korean incomes increased.

The next major improvement period came about in the 1990s when the infrastructure of the area was improved. In 1997, the Shinjang Mall Area was designated as a Special Tourism Zone. Major changes were made to the Mall area turn it into a Itaewon-like shopping area with all the features of a stateside mall. At this time, the area was designated as Shinjang 2 (i)-dong. The Shinjang 2-dong area extends over the Kyongbu train line up to the top of the hill at the overpass and to the right of the overpass (towards Jisan-dong) until it meets the hilly area of Seojong-dong.

Songtan area consists of:
  • Shinjang 1-dong Shinjang 1-dong extends from the base perimeter to the Kyongbu Railway and from the Shinjang Road Overpass to the Seotan-myeon boundary near the road to the Doolittle Gate. The area consists of the Mokcheon Village (near the tracks), Namsan Village (near the perimeter) and old Chicol-ni village (center area and Shinjang Mall area). The house office was established in 1962.


    Shinjang 1-dong House Office located on Hill near railroad tracks


    As a general rule in Korea, older areas have zig-zag streets that follow the topography. However, after the 1980s, the streets were laid out on a grid system and gives a clue to the age of development in the area. All the streets in Shinjang 1-dong are laid out following the topography indicating the area was laid out in the 1950-1960s. The major roads are:

    • Back Gate (Doolittle Gate) Road: This road built originally by the 839th EAB to get the equipment to the base to start construction. After the Korean War, it fell into disuse and no one remembered it. Though drawn on the 417th EAB Aug 51 drawing and shown on a 1953 photo by Robert Spiwak, it wasn't remembered by any. Between 1980-1983, the road and overpass was built to connect the Route 1 (MSR-1) to the Doolittle Gate area following the same route.


      Route 1 Intersection to Doolittle Gate (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

      Shinjang View from Doolittle Gate road (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



      Shinjang View from Doolittle Gate road (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

      Shinjang View from Doolittle Gate road (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



      Shinjang View from Doolittle Gate road (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

      Street to Bravo Gate (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


    • Mokcheon Village Road: (Doolittle Gate Road intersection to about Bravo Gate and on to the intersection with Namsan Village Road. This road built in about 1993 when half of the Bomb Dump Hill was returned to ROK control and the Bravo Gate was opened when the Doolittle Gate was undergoing reconstruction.
    • Jaeyok Road: Road behind Shinjang Mall Road that connects Aragon Alley, Yong Chon Hotel Alley to Plaza Road at the base of the hill where the Songtan Catholic Church, Jungang Church and Hanil Church are located. (The area was called Jae Yok-dong prior to 1960.) The Hill area is referred to by the locals as "Hobak-san" (Pumpkin Mountain) -- and now the road up the hill is named "Pumpkin Road."

    • Mokcheon Road: Road starts at the base of the Overpass. It runs to the Mokcheon pedestrian underpass at the intersection of the Shinjang Mall Road. It then continues down to the Mokcheon underpass built in the 1980s. This follows the path that was used to cross the railroad tracks to get to the Songbuk Farmers' Market. It then continues to run parallel with the railroad tracks through the Mokcheon housing area and then swings through the rice fields to rejoin the Mokcheon Village Road.


      Namsan Village Road junction with Mokcheon Village Road (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


    • Namsan Village Road: (Base of Hill 170 straight to the intersection with Mokcheon Village Road -- continues straight until Shinjang Road at the front of the Main Gate). Originally a dirt path that ran from the Main Gate to the left and then along the perimeter until the houses opened up along the perimeter. The path ran along the bottom of the hill and continued straight to the base of Hill 170. The paved road follows the same path. The path was widened to a dirt road in the 1970s to connect the Main Gate to the housing that developed as the rice fields of the Chicol-ni area were reclaimed. At that time the Aragon Alley and Young Chon Alley were the primary routes to the houses clustered in the low-lying areas of the Jae-yok-dong area. Up until 1983, the Osan Hotel occupied the area to the left of the Main Gate and in 1985, it relocated to the base of the Milwal Road. In 1983, the road way to the Namsan Village area was built to accomodate the construction of the new housing in the Namsan Village area. Immediately, apartments were built along the Namsan Village road and later three-story apartment buildings sprang up in the Namsan Village area.


      (L) Namsan Village near Hill 170 (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Namsan Village looking toward Bomb Dump Hill (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



      (L) Namsan Village looking towards Songtan Catholic Church (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Namsan Village Yongwasa Buddhist temple with Rental Village under construction above it (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



      (L) Deserted 1960s house overgrown near perimeter (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Deserted house 1970s house on hill overlooking Shinjang area (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


      In 2005 there was a rental village under construction at the top of the Namsan Village area -- next to the base perimeter -- that was intended to meet the needs of those personnel moving down from Yongsan.

    • Shinjang Road: (Main Gate to the intersection of Milwal Road -- turns left and continues over overpass to the Tanhyeon Road (MSR-1)) This was the third access road. It was originally a small dirt path that ran up the ridgeline to the MSR-1. It actually curved, but later was straightened out in the mid-1970s. Mr. Oh Sun-soo related that his house and GQ Tailors was just outside the gate. In 1970, Park Chung-hee visited Osan AB and the Wing Commander stated he needed to have another road as only one the Shinjang Mall Road was causing a lot of congestion. First, Milwal Road was straightened and expanded with a lot of howls of agony as many people's homes were razed -- with little compensation. Then the Shinjang Road was constructed to run straight up the ridgeline. Note the slope was not as steep as it is today. Over the hill, Terminal Ridge Road was built and connected to the MSR-1 Bypass.


      Shinjang Railroad Overpass Towards Bus Terminal (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

      Shinjang Railroad Overpass Towards Main Gate (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



      Shinjang Railroad Overpass Towards Main Gate (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

      Shinjang Shopping Mall Side Street from Overpass (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


    • Shinjang Mall Road: Now closed to vehicular traffic. This was the first road that was cut by Co. A, 8439th EAB in 1952. It connected off of Tanhyeon Road at an angle and then ran directly over the railroad tracks. The "shanty town" that grew up along its sides was called Chicol-ni (Chicoville) after the original village to the left of the gate-- but the local residents called the shanty town "Chong-mun eup" (Front Gate Town).

      The Shinjang Mall Strip was built up to prevent it from flooding. This explains why the elevation of the Shinjang Mall Strip was about fifteen feet above the rice fields below.

      This road was used primarily for supplies as the heavy equipment and munitions were transported by train. By 1959, there was an unmanned crossing and at the intersection there was a police box. The police box remained in this location into the 1970s. The bus depot was where the Kyungmin Bank is now located. The Jaeil Theater was down the road about a block.

      Initially, the road from the main gate veered left then straightened out and went straight and up and incline towards "Hobak Hill" (Pumpkin Hill) where Hanil Church was built. After the railspur, the road dropped off as it went around the tip of the hill and crossed the Mokcheon crossing at a diagonal. A manned railroad crossing was added in the 1970s where the Mokcheon pedestrian underpass is now located. This road remained a dirt road until the mid-1970s when the road was paved. After the overpass was built in 1976, the crossing was closed and in the 1980s, the Mokcheon underpass was built along the second path that had been used to get to the Songbuk Farmers' Market. Later the Mokcheon pedestrian underpass was built in 2000.


      Shinjang Shopping Mall (Oct 2004) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



      Shinjang Shopping Mall: Street food vendor in front of AQ Tailor Shop (Oct 2004) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

      Shinjang Shopping Mall: Opera Bar (Oct 2004) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



      Shinjang Shopping Mall: Food Vendor (Oct 2004) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

      Shinjang Shopping Mall: Food Vendor (Oct 2004) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



      Shinjang Shopping Mall: By-the-way Convenience Store and Teenage church group street performance in rear (Oct 2004) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

      Shinjang Shopping Mall: Burger King to left and Baskin-Robbins to right (Oct 2004) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



      Shinjang Shopping Mall: Old Open Market buying Kimpap (rice roll) (Oct 2004) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

      Shinjang Shopping Mall: Old Open Market (Note: Bang-Bang Jeans Shopping Bag) (Oct 2004) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


  • (2) Shinjang 2 (i)-dong The Shinjang 2-dong was created as the area expanded with more homes and construction in the Milwal-dong area on the west side of the base. This area centers around the Milwal Road that originally went to the top of the hill (where the Capital Hotel is) and veered right to follow the perimeter as the Hill 180 Gate Road. It remained a dirt path into the mid-1970s when paved road construction took place in the area. The original roads on the west side of Hill 180 were "straightened" and paved. The small road continued until the Hill 180 Gate (or ROKAF Gate). When the AFOC Gate was opened in 2000, the Hill 180 Gate was closed. The AFOC Gate is located in the Seotan-myeon area of the base.

    In 1975, Park Chung-hee visited Osan AB and the Wing Commander stated that the base needed another road because of the congestion in the Shinjang Mall Road area. The President approved the widening of the road and new connections to MSR-1. The first step was the widening of Milwal Road and straightening its path. Mr. Oh Sun-soo's house and GQ Tailor shop was right outside the gate. It was demolished -- and like the other residents who lost their homes -- there was little compensation for their loss. After the Milwal Road had been widened and the Shinjang Road Overpass constructed to go to the top of the ridgeline. Unlike most of the other overpasses in the area that connected two hills, this overpass had to start from the bottom of the ridge and go to the top. This is why there is a long ramp unlike other overpasses in Songtan.

    A new Milwal Road extension was built down the hill in the late 1970s to connect it to the Songtan Subway Road. It connected it to the then newly newly built Taegwang High School after the last of the rice fields were reclaimed. After the Taegwang High School construction tapered off. Later this area was administratively transferred to the Seojong-myeon area. The dividing line is the road that crosses the southern end of Taegwang Middle School.


    Shinjang 2-dong House Office located across from Onnori Church (formerly Sogwang Church)


    As a general rule in Korea, older areas have zig-zag streets that follow the topography. However, after the 1980s, the streets were laid out on a grid system and gives a clue to the age of development in the area. The areas in Shinjang 2-dong are a mix. In the Jungang shopping area (near the overpass) containing the Songtan Tourist Hotel, Prince Hotel and Capital Hotel on the hill have winding streets and diagonal alleys left over when the streets were laid out following the topography indicating the area was laid out in the 1950-1960s.

    Jungang Shopping Area sign near overpass (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Jungang Shopping Area road looking toward overpass (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Alleyway leading to Prince Hotel (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Alleyway leading to Prince Hotel (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Street leading to Prince Hotel (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (Notice that most of buildings are constructed of fire brick popular in 1980s and straight grid pattern.)

    Street leading to Milwal Road (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (Notice that most of buildings are constructed of fire brick popular in 1980s and straight grid pattern.)

    From Songshin Elementary looking towardsPrince Hotel (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (Notice that building on right has ceramic tile facing popular as upgrade in 1970s. Road is straight grid pattern.)

    Taegwang School Road starting at the Shinjang Road Overpass (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (Road is straight to Seojong-ni following the railway tracks. Original area for used lumber yard in 1950-60s next to railroad tracks. Now hardware stores, electrical and PVC pipe supply stores.)



    2005: (L) Songshin Elementary School (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan); (R) Songshin Elementary and Taegwang Middle School across fence (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


    However, the roads in the Songshin Elementary School area are laid out on a grid indicating 1980s construction. Another clue is the fire brick construction that was popular in the 1980s. Almost all of the buildings in the "grid area" are constructed of red fire brick. However, the homes along the perimeter on the Hill 180 Road are a mix of older 1960s structures and 1990s construction. New construction is underway in this area in anticipation of the move of people from Yongsan.



  • (3) Jisan-dong "Jisan" means "small mountain." Jisan-dong was formed of the towns on the Jisan hill area and the reclaimed land areas along Route 1.

    The Jisan-dong western boundary is the Kyongbu Railway. The northern boundary runs up Terminal Ridge Road to Jangmi Apartment Road until the Farmer's Bank at the base of the Jisan Park Hill. It then turns right and follows the base of the Jisan Park Hill until the intersection of Gym Park Road (Chae-euk Gonghweon Gil) and the Jisan Kunyong Apartments. The boundary turns left and goes until Route 1. It then turns left and follows Route 1 until the pedestrian overpass just before the Burak Mountain Road. The Jisan boundary then runs east behind the Library and Apartments along the Jisan Park Hill until the Bukbu-Jungang Road (MSR-1 Bypass). It continues east until the Kyongbu Railway at the boundary of Shinjang 2-dong.


    Jisan-dong House Office


    The MSR-1 from Osan-ni was a long straightaway that passed over the Jinwi River. At the base of a hill (present day Songtan Fire Station) the MSR-1 veered right into the "old city" area of Jisan-dong. In the 1950s, the "old city" area of Jisan-dong already existed in the sense that there were a few structures along the MSR-1 that appear to have been built during the Japanese colonial period. By the late 1950s, there were some two-story concrete structures in the area. (NOTE: As a general rule in Korea, older areas have zig-zag streets that follow the topography. However, after the 1980s, the streets were laid out on a grid system and gives a clue to the age of development in the area. The streets on the small hill where the MSR-1 comes from Osan-ni into the "old city" follows the topography indicating the area was laid out in the 1950-1960s, BUT the streets next to the new Rte 1 to Pyeongtaek are laid out on a grid indicating they were constructed after 1980.)


    Main Supply Route 1 (MSR1) on the straightaway to Osan-ni after
    exiting the "old city" area of Jisan-dong. (1959) (Ed Stirling)


    The original MSR-1 followed the railroad tracks down straight to Seojong-ni and then on to Pyeongtaek. (NOTE: This is the same basic route as the 1-2 bus from Pyeongtaek to K-55 takes today.)

    An alternate MSR-1 route was developed that ran straight past the Express Bus Terminal and down straight to Seojong-ni where it turned right to the Seojong-ni train station and then continued on to Pyeongtaek. This bypassed the hill where the train overpass from Shinjang-dong now sits.

    After one passed the "old city" area, there was a natural basin surrounded by hills on four sides. Prior to the 1990s, this area was filled with rice fields and swamp lands. These lands included everything across the street from the Express Bus Terminal on the east till the Songbuk-dong hills on the west. On the north it was the "old" streets that followed the hill terrain till they joined to go off to Osan-ni and to the base of the Jisan hills to the south.


    Intersection of MSR-1 and Road leading to Main Gate (1954) (Robert Furrer) (NOTE: This is the approximate area of the Express Bus Terminal to the left and continue on to Seojeong-ni train station to the right. The line of hills in the distance is where the current Route 1 to Pyongtaek runs. At the base of the hills are the apartment complexes on both sides of the roads. Hill to the right became the Jisan-dong park area.)


    In the 1960s, growth was slow. Residential areas with streets following the topography (indicating pre-1960 construction) were built at the base of the Jisan hill area.

    In the 1970s, the Miracle of the Han appeared in the Songtan area and small to mid-size factories moved into the area. Three-story apartments buildings were built in the area. By the 1980s, residential areas grew up along the hill for the Shinjang area (east of the Kyongbu line) as shown by the streets following a grid pattern indicating post-1970 construction.

    From the mid-1980s through the early 1990s, the land between the MSR-1 and the Songbuk-dong hills was drained and reclaimed. The path of Route 1 was moved to the base of the hills in Songbuk-dong making the route straight and bypassing the Shinjang-dong and Seojong-dong areas. New "low-rise" apartments were built upon the reclaimed land on both sides of the new Rte 1 in the early 1990s. However, because this construction was on reclaimed land, the new apartments were limited to a height of 10 stories. The Jisan hills were changed into the Jisan Park area and the Jisan Elementary School was built on the side closest to the new Rte 1 for residents of the apartments. In the park area there is the Jijang-sa Temple, a rather modern two story building.


    Songtan Street area: Express Bus Terminal to left of photo. Building with Bowling pin on top indicates small bowling alley in basement. Turn left to Farmer's Market about two blocks down. (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: In 1952, this was the intersection of Main Supply Route 1 (MSR-1) and the road to the base Main Gate shown above. Everything from the building with bowling pin to the Songbuk-dong hills across from the Rte 1 was rice paddies.)



    Jisan-dong Park (March 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



    (L) Jisan-dong Park (Mar 2005) (R) Jisan-dong Park (June 2005) (NOTE: Includes pavilions; a waterfall in summer; and badminton courts.) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Street to base near Route 1 (NOTE: To the left is Jisan-dong Park and to the right a block down is the Songtan Farmers' Open Market.) (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)
    (NOTE: This area was all rice paddies in 1952.)


    Kunyong Apartments: Typical of Apartments in the area (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: Because the apartments in mid-1990s were built on reclaimed "swamp land" the maximum height of the buildings in this area is ten stories. Many apartment buildings are showing signs of settling -- cracks along the walls.)



    Apartment Buildings flanking main road to Pyongtaek -- Built in mid-1990s (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Jisan-dong Elementary School: Typical of newer schools in area built in mid-1990s (Oct 2004) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


  • (4) Seojong-dong Seotan-myeon is the western boundary. The Seojong-dong area on the north runs from the Shinjang 2-dong area near the Pokchong Road down to Milwal Road to Jijang-dong Road just below the Taegwang Middle School marks the southern boundary. It then proceeds across the Kyongbu Railway to the Jisan-dong area near the Burak Mountain Road. It follows half-way up the Jisan Park Hill behind the apartments on Burak Mountain Road and then crosses Route 1 to the boundary of Songbuk dong. It runs down Route 1 until the Songtan Branch of Pyeongtaek City Hall. It runs back to Route 1 and past the carved out area of the Hill next to Donggi-so Registry Road. It runs to the apex of the hill and behind the low-rise apartment buildings along Shinseon Road to Seojong-ni. (NOTE: The new apartment buildings in Seojong-ni and the business district along Seojong-ni Station Road is in Ichung-dong.) The boundary goes south following the Seojong Market Road to the east. At the point that the Seojong Market Road (MSR-1) and Shinseon Road (MSR-1 Bypass) rejoin, the boundary goes west across the Kyongbu line until the Seotan Myeon boundary. It turns north and continues until it meets the Shinjang 2-dong boundary. (NOTE: There is a possibility that Seojong is actually two dongs with the split being between the "old town" of Seojong-ni and the new areas created in the mid-1980s when Songtan became "Songtan City" and Seojong-myeon was joined to it.)

    (PROBLEM: Pyeongtaek City no longer has a published "dong" map. The Songtan "dong" map in the 2001 Pyeongtaek Si Sa (History) is outdated. It appears that Ichung dong was created out of Songtan-dong area and portions of Jungang-dong expanded. In a visit to the Seojong-dong House Office, the map showing the area Seojong-dong did NOT indicate the area of Seojong-ni and Train Station. However, in the map provided by the Jungang-dong office, it shows Seojong-dong covering the Seojong-ni and Train Station area, but NOT the area above it along the Seojong Trouism Road area. As of Aug 2005, we are still confused of the boundary areas. The maps that are being provided by the separate dong house offices contain conflicting information -- because the maps provided are from different time periods. This area stil in research.)

    This contains was the original village in the area known as Seojong-ni with the Seojong-ni Train Station on the Kyongbu line from the Japanese colonial period and the old village area near the Songtan Elementary School where houses were clustered around wells. The name Seojong means "West Well." Covering perhaps a four-square block area, it contained a small open market place and business district along the MSR-1 (Main Supply Route 1) that ran past the Seojong-ni Station. There were most likely grain storage warehouses along the siding. (See Seojong-ni for historical data.) (NOTE: The boundary of Seojong-dong is uncertain at this time. The Pyeongtaek Si Sa map (2001) reflects two possible boundaries. There are no recent maps of the boundaries. Pyeongtaek City Hall recommended contacting the Jungang-dong and Seojong-dong House Office for information on boundaries. As of Aug 2005 in research.)


    Seojong-dong House Office


    After the Korean War, most of the area's economy was based on catering to the needs of K-55 and Seojong's importance was reduced in significance. Most of the expansion was towards the K-55 (Osan AB) area of Shinjang-dong (Jae-Yok-dong), Jinsan-dong, and Songbuk-dong, while the Seojong-ni area continued to serve the needs of the agricultural community. At this time, agriculture was at a subsistence level so growth was insignificant.

    After the rise of the Shinjang-dong (Jae-Yok-dong) area in importance, growth was limited in the Seojong area during the 1960s. Houses remained sparse between the Seojong-ni and the Shinjang-dong area (Jae Yok-dong). The area became Seojong-myeon. Seojong-myeon was made up of the villages of (1) Cheoncheon (2) Jijang (3) Pokchang (4) Shinchang (5) Saguri (Sageori); and (5) Wanjokpong (Jeokbong).


    Pokchang Elementary School four blocks from Main Gate just over Shinjang 2-dong/Seojong-dong boundary (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


    However, with the start of the Miracle of the Han River in the 1970s, more small manufacturing shops moved into the area. Along the MSR-1, three-four story concrete buildings were erected. The growth in the Seojong-ni area spread outwards towards the Shinjang-dong/Jisan-dong area.

    By the 1980s, the growth had reached the boundaries of the Shinjang area and more small-to-mid-sized factories moved into the area because of the lack of space in Seoul as well as the growth in Seoul south of the Youngdongpo area which was connected by the MSR-1. Three story apartment complexes were erected in the area. The streets in this area of expansion followed a grid pattern, but the streets were very narrow -- mainly because there were few cars in those days.

    In 1981 Songtan-eup (town) changed to Songtan-shi (city) and Seojong-myeon was incorporated into Songtan. It became Seojong-dong and was divided into Seojong 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9. In the 1990s, high-rise (ten story) apartment complexes constructed in the area.


    (L) Seojong-ri Station (R) Railroad siding with a rail car and the Seojong-ri Station Platform in background (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



    One-way Seojong-ni Station Road from Songtan. (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



    Seojong Tourism Road looking to Songtan Branch of Pyeongtaek City Hall. Major banks, restaurants and the new Songtan movie theater on this road. (Pyeongtaek City)


  • (5) Songbuk-dong The northern boundary is Jinwi-myeon just before the "Y" where on turns down into the downtown area of Songtan. It follows the boundary of Jinwi-myeon past Route 340 and swings down to form the eastern boundary with Hweonkuk-myeon. The southern boundary meets Route 1 across from the Buraksan Mountain Road. The boundary then swings north following Route 1 until it is at the end of the Jisan Kunyong Apartments and then it swings across Route 1 to the base of the Jisan Park Hill at the Gym Park Road (Chae-euk Gonghweon). It then turns north until following the base of the Jisan Park Hill until Jangmi Apartment Road. It then swings west along Terminal Ridge Road until the Kyongbu Railway.

    It encompasses the west side of Rte 1. Most of the low-lying areas are farmland, but the hilly terrain on the upper slopes remains undeveloped. There are exercise trails near the Rte 1 into the hills behind the apartments into the Burak Mountain.

    The Songbuk Farmers' Market is in the "old town" area of Songbuk dong in the area of the Tanhyeon Road (MSR-1) and spills over onto the sidewalks and sidestreets on the days that it is open. Bargains in foodstuffs, inexpensive clothing and household goods.

    Songbuk Elementary School was established here in 1955. It was upgraded over the years on the same location going from a low one-story structure to two story to three-story structures.

    In the 1990s, "low-rise" apartments (10 stories) were built along Rte 1 at the base of Burak Mountain. The height limitations was because the land was reclaimed swamp land.


    Songbuk-dong House Office



    Songbuk Open Market (down the street from the Mokcheon Underpass) (2002) (Unknown)



    (L) Intersection of the old Shinjang Mall Road intersection with old MSR-1 (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: First area of development along MSR-1 in 1950s.) (R) Former location of the old Jaeil Theater of the 1950s-1970s (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)




    Songbuk Elementary School (2005) (NOTE: This school was built on the original location of Songbuk Primary School in 1955) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



    Chae Yu-lim Shrine, Ojwa-dong (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Shrine Gate, Chae Yu-lim Shrine, Ojwa-dong (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


    Kicha (Train) Restaurant (June 2005) (NOTE: Past the Grand Sauna -- up the road from Songbuk Elementary.) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



    Burak Mountain: Start of Trail near Songtan Middle School (Oct 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Burak Mountain: Alex, Yoon and Kiltong at Rest Area on trail (Oct 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



    Burak Mountain: Grave of Minister on Chaeyokshiseol Trail (Sep 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Burak Mountain: Sculpture along Trail (Oct 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



    Burak Mountain: Yoon on a back trail (Oct 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Burak Mountain: View of Jisan-dong from Watch Tower (Oct 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



    Burak Mountain: View of Ichung-dong construction from Lookout (Oct 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Burak Mountain: View of Jungang-dong and Pyeongtaek in distance from Lookout (Oct 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)




  • (6) Ichung-dong Ichung-dong's boundary starts at Munhwakonghweon Road (Tradition (Culture) Road) then goes north immediately behind the Songtan Branch Offic of Pyeongtaek City Hall. It follows the Songbuk-dong boundary north and then east. It goes south until Route 340 and and continues south. It swings west until it meets the Jungang dong boundary in the Jangdang Jigu area and then crosses Route 1 until the Hyomyeon School Road and then turns north until Shinseon Road and then follows the Seojong-dong boundary until Route 1 at Munhwakonghweon Road (Tradition (Culture) Road). (PROBLEM: Pyeongtaek City no longer has a published "dong" map. The Songtan "dong" map in the 2001 Pyeongtaek Si Sa (History) is outdated. Ichung dong does NOT have a house office and the Songtan Branch of Pyeongtaek City Hall referred us to Jungang House Office. The Jungang-dong House Office provided the of the area map. Though resolving the Ichung-dong boundaries, it created more confusion as it shows Jangdang-dong as inside Jungang-dong. Also Seojong-dong is smaller. As of Aug 2005, we are still confused of the boundary areas. This area stil in research.)

    The name of Ichung means "two loyalties" which would signify the joining of Songtan-eup (town) and Seojong-myeon (district) to form Songtan-shi (city). The Songtan City Hall was built on the boundary between the two -- with Seojong Tourism Road leading up to the City Hall being the new business and financial center of the city. The symbolism of the melding of the two separate entities to form a new city cannot be missed. Along side the new city hall was Munhwakonghweon Road (Tradition (Culture) Road and the building of a completely new area of Ichung-dong with its Civic Center, Leport Park, and Kyungmoon College.

    However, there is another story of the name. According to the Songtan.org: Songtan History website, the Ichung name was meant to honor two Confucian scholars who supposedly grew up in the Ichung dong area -- Cho Kwang-jo and Oh Dal-jae. From our research, Cho Kwang-jo (Jo Gwang-jo). In 1519, conservative officials instigated a major purge of Neo-Confucian reformers (Salim pa) led by Cho Kwang-jo (1482-1519). King Jungjong took the crown after usurping the tyrant Yeonsangun's grip. The new king wanted a political rejuvenation, so he appointed a group of young scholars with innovative ideas. Cho Gwang-jo was one of the king's favorite idealists. However, Cho and his friends were too idealistic, showing no flexibility in carrying out policies. This earned the antagonism of other political factions (Hongu pa). One day, his opponents wrote four Chinese characters, "ju cho wi wang," in honey on the leaf of a tree inside the palace. The characters mean "Cho would be king." Taking the leaf, whose honey-pasted section had been eaten by worms overnight, to the king, Cho's enemies succeeded in driving Cho and his faction out of the court. This purge, known as the Gimyo sahwa (Purge of the Literi), was an important turning point in the history of Korean Confucianism for it saw the banishment of Neo-Confucian reformers and the consolidation of conservative control. Little more than a month after his banishment to Hwasun, south of Tamyang, Cho Kwang-jo was forced to take poison. He was conferred an honorary prime minister posthumously in 1568 and posthumous name of Munjeong in 1569. The Juksu Academy in Hancheon-myeon, Hwasun-gun in 1570. A garden built by his student Yang San-bo in Damyang in honor of Cho is designated as the historical site #304 of Chonnam Province. The second scholar of the Chosun Dynasty period was Oh Dal-jae who supposedly encouraged the King to fight China. In retaliation, the Chinese had him put to death. (NOTE: At this time, we have little information on this person. In research.)


    (L) Ichung-dong Apartments from Leport Sports Grounds (R) Leport Sports Grounds (June 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



    Ichung-dong Munhwakonghweon Civic Center (June 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



    Kyungmoon College (June 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


  • (7) Jungang-dong NOTE: Jungang-dong has within it the Jangdang-dong Industrial area stretching along the west of Route 1 just before the Songtan Industrial Zone (Songtan-dong).


    Jungang House Office (June 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


    To south the boundary is Mokgok-dong, Pyeongtaek. It stretches from Songtan-dong just west of the Songtan Industrial area (Songtan-dong) on the west of the Kyongbu Railway. From the Songtan Industrial Zone, it crosses Rte 1 east and then north following the general curve of Kyongbu Railway. It goes north until Rte 340 and then turns east and continues to the intersection of Seojong Market Road (MSR-1) and Shinseon Road (MSR-1 Bypass). It then goes south following the general route of the Hyomyeon School Road until it reaches the Jangdang Jigu area. This is the boundary with Ichung-dong. It turns east and continues passes north of the hill area of Jangdang Jigu and then south to the Songtan Industrial area.

    This is the area where the new massive complex of high rises is going up on both sides of Rte 1 to Pyeongtaek. Some units have opened. The new elementary school and other apartments scheduled for opening in 2006. 391,000 sq meters of space for 10,000 people completed in December 2004. (NOTE: The northern boundary of Jungang-dong is uncertain at this time. There are no recent maps of the boundaries. Pyeongtaek City Hall recommended contacting the Jungang-dong House Office directly. As of Aug 2005 in research.)


    On Route 1 at the Y-into Jungang-dong on a rainy day (June 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: Right road is Rte 1 to Osan City. Rte 1 passes through new highrises on both sides of Rte 1. Left road leads into Seojong-dong past the Train Station.)


  • (8) Songtan-dong - The Songtan-dong southern boundary is Mokgok-dong, Pyeongtaek City. As one enters the Songtan area from Pyeongtaek, the boundary of Songtan-dong is on the left of the Route 1 (Jungang Road 4). The Songtan Local Industrial Zone is on the right side of Route 1. Immediately after the Songtan Industrial Zone, the boundary goes across Rte 1 along the northern edge of the industrial zone. Route 40 passes through this industrial area. It follows the general route of Route 340 (to the south of it) to the east along the Ichung-dong boundary. It then goes south to the Mokgok-dong, Pyeongtaek and turns west until Route 1.

    (PROBLEM: Pyeongtaek City no longer has a published "dong" map. The Songtan "dong" map in the 2001 Pyeongtaek Si Sa (History) is outdated. This map showed the Songtan dong boundary line going up behind the Ichung-dong Munhwakonghweon Civic Center and Leports Playground where it meets the boundary of the Songbuk-dong and runs to the west. However, it appears that Ichung dong was created out of Songtan-dong area and portions of Jungang-dong expanded. At this time, we are uncertain how much was split away to create other industrial zones (with special administrative dongs) in the Pyeongtaek City area. The maps that are being provided by the separate dong house offices contain conflicting information -- because the maps provided are from different time periods. As of Aug 2005, we are still confused of the boundary areas -- but it is plain to see that the Songtan-dong is an administrative area that will be used to cover the various industrial areas that are growing along the boundary with Pyeongtaek-dong, Kajae-dong, and Mokgok-dong as well as others will its boundaries. This area stil in research.)

    Songtan-dong was formed as a new administrative unit by changing the name of Dongbu-dong on 19 April 1996 by Pyeongtaek City Ordinance No. 197. Taewon dong was joined to Songtan-dong and split off Mokgok, Chilgoe, Gajae, Changan, Chilwon and Doil to be developed as industrial areas.

    Construction is in progress to extend the network of roads to connect the industrial plants to major arteries of traffic and upgrade the small country roads. The area extends up to the Songtan Interchange and includes the Pyeongtaek-Songtan Local Industrial complex.


    Songtan-dong House Office


    • (a) Mokgok-dong Pyeongtaek-Songtan Local Industrial Complex -- Abuts Jangdang Local Industrial complex)


      Songtan Industrial area (Mokgok-dong)
    • (b) Chilgoe-dong (part of Chilgoe Local Industrial Area)
    • (c) Gajae-dong
    • (d) Chilwon-dong (part of Chilgoe Local Industrial area)
    • (e) Doil-dong.


    Songtan Landmarks

    Eunhaeng-junge Ginko Tree The Eunhaeng-junge Gingko Tree, located at the Osan AB golf course, is considered a cultural asset. Traditionally large trees such as this served as village meeting places or shrines. Sherds found during construction of the golf course indicate several villages have been located near it in the past. The tree was reportedly planted in 1270 AD and has many stories in local folklore. Supposedly there were two trees in the location originally, but by 1951 only one remained. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Mr. Oh Sun-soo 21 Jul 2005.)

    After the Korean War, many urban legends started to appear about Osan AB. One of them stated. The North Koreans allegedly used the tree to hang prisoners and others during their occupation of this area. (Source: Osan AB: Conservation.) However, this report that 12 UN chaplains and medics were hanged on this tree cannot be substantiated.

    On the other hand, there appears to be some truth that in 1953 the Graves Registration recovered American bodies with their hands tied behind their backs. (Source: Lt. Ron Freedman narrative of 1953 on Hill 170.)

    The Ginko Tree at the Osan AB Golf Course is a local landmark. The plaque at the tree names a village called "Enheng Jengui" (Mana from the Ginko Tree) that was supposedly incorporated into the base in 1950. (NOTE: Though the decision to construct Osan AB was made in 1951, actual construction did not start until 1952. The ROK government granted the U.S. Air Force the indefinite use of 1,250 acres in 1952 for the base. Thus the "1950" date is in error.)


    Ginko Tree on Hill 180 (1968) (Bill Bayless)



    Ginko Tree on Golf Course (2003) (Jack Tierwel)


    In 1981 when Songtan-eup (town) became Songtan-shi (city), the Ginko Tree (Eunhaeng) was chosen as the city tree.

    First Permanent Building of Osan AB The following are a few pics of Osan AB Then-and-Now of one of the few remaining landmarks of the Korean War. The supply warehouse across from the BX is the oldest permanent structure on base being built by the 839th Engineering Aviation Battalion (EAB). Next to Bldg 819, there is the imprint of the 839th EAB, Co. A which constructed the warehouse and concrete platform. The Korean War photos are by then Capt. Robert Evilsizor, commander Co. A, 839th EAB. (See 1952 for photos of the base construction.)

    Later the 840th and 841st EAB assisted in the constructing the base infrastructure in 1953. Though there are many buildings listed on the inventory as being constructed in 1953-1954, they have been modified so extensively, they no longer resemble the original buildings. For example, Wing Headquarters (Bldg 781) is listed as being built in 1953 but has a gently sloping roof-line. Curley Knepp stated in Jul 2005, that a while back, he went into the ceiling area and noted that the original roofline support of a Jamesway building remained, but it was visible that the roofline angle had changed as the building expanded.

    The closest example of a 1950s-style building we have seen so far was the CE Readiness (Bldg 1466) probably started out as a Jamesway building, but its roof was probably replaced in the 1970s with a more permanent metal roof. Revetments around buildings were added in the late 1970s -- either local if welded construction or shipped in from Utapao, Thailand if bolted. (NOTE:

    Some locations only give hints of the uses in the past. For example, the earth berms on Hill 170 show the location of the now demolished POL tanks from the Korean War.

    The dryvit (stucco) insulation to most of the buildings in the 1980s further "disguised" these structures. The addition of windows and doors over the years have also aided to "disguise" these structures such as the McPherson Recreation Center (Bldg 345) built in 1962. The bottomline is that any of the structures still standing after 50-plus years on Osan AB have been extensively modified (structurally and cosmetically both interior and exterior) so that they no longer resemble the original building.


    839th EAB billets area with Hill 170 POL tanks in background. (1952) (Robert Evilsizor)


    The picture above is how Osan AB was in 1952. In the foreground of the 839th Engineering Aviation Battalion (EAB) is the Motorpool and the Supply and Mess tents are directly behind them. To the left is the HQ section. Runway is to the left and where the heavy equipment is located became the 18th FBW F-86F fighter-bombers parking ramp. (This area is now the AMC parking ramp area.) The "front gate" was in the 839th EAB area at the time.

    The road around Hill 170 (Broadway Road) where the "front gate" was at the time. Around Hill 170 was the bomb dump (the hill next to where the Bravo Gate is today). To the left, outside of the picture is the supply warehouse.

    Notice the Korean village still on the hillside of Hill 180. This village was relocated when the advance element of 5th AF was situated at Osan AB in 1953. At the boundary between the village fields and the EAB tents is where the road over the hill (Headquarters Road) would be constructed. (NOTE: In the center of this village was the Ginko Tree at the golf course which is now a local landmark.)


    Movie Theater and Turumi Lodge are in about the same location as where the 839th EAB tents were situated during the Korean War. (Jul 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



    Headquarters Road viewed from the intersection at Broadway (next to BX) (Jul 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan).





    (L) Supply warehouse -- First Permanent Structure on base (1952) (Robert Evilsizor) (R) Supply warehouse today (Jul 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)





    (Top) Supply warehouse in 1952 (1952) (Robert Evilsizor) (Bottom) Supply warehouse Today (Jul 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)





    (Top) 839th Seal (1952) (Robert Evilsizor) (Bottom) Seal Today next to Bldg 819 now half buried (Jul 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


    Chae Yu-Lim Shrine Ojwa-gaol (hamlet) is in Ojwa-dong hidden away in the old village area behind the Songtan Samik apartments as one enters Songtan. On the hillside of Ojwa-gaol (hamlet), there is a monument and shrine erected in 2001 to Chae Yu-Lim (1426-1471). We visited the shrine in August 2005.


    (R) View from Ojwa-gaol of Apartments as one enters Songtan (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (L) View of Ojwa-gaol (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


    The shrine is in good repair but to get to it, one must walk through an unmarked space between two houses and then through some high weeds while balancing on some stones to keep from walking in the mud. Outside the shrine is a stele. The plaque at the gate is in Hangul -- with no English, so this does not appear to be a tourist attraction. The marker shows it was dedicated in 2001. The plaque gives the details of Chae Yu-Lim's life. Though interesting as a side note, it is not worth a special trip as the front gate is locked and you can only peek over the wall.

    Chae was born in 1426 and passed the government examinations in 1450. He became the Uijongbu governor in 1455. In 1464, he was selected to represent the King to the court of China to study the military situation and report to the King dealing with its vassal relationship with China. Chae recommended sending of Korean troops to China. In 1465, he returned to Korea. Due to intrigues within the court, attempts were made on his life, but he was saved by benefactors. He died in 1471 at the age of 45.

    Chae Yu-lim Shrine, Ojwa-dong (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Marker Plaque in Hangul, Ojwa-dong (Chae Yu-lim Life Story) (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Marker at Chae Yu-lim Shrine, Ojwa-dong (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Shrine Gate, Chae Yu-lim Shrine, Ojwa-dong (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


    Chundo-kyo (Eastern Learning) Church Another forgotten bit of Songtan trivia will soon be gone. Located next to the Shinjang 1-dong House Office is a small building up on a little knoll. The doors are locked and the sign over the front door is bent. Anyone would pass this building without ever paying attention to it. It will soon be torn down. But what is this building?


    Chundo-kyo (Eastern Learning), Songdan-kyoku Church (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

    Chundo-kyo (Eastern Learning), Songtan-kyoku Church (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


    The sign over the door reads "Chundo-kyo, Songtan-kyoku" meaning "Eastern Learning Religion, Songtan Church." This church represents a piece of Korean history dating back to the Tonghak uprising of 1892 that attempted to right the injustices of the Korean society for the disenfranchised poor and when their pleas were rejected by the King -- they resorted to violence by raising of the Righteous Army of 10,000. With the intervention of the Japanese, the revolt was suppressed. In the waning days of the Chosun dynasty, Koreans founded the Chundo religion based upon the Tonghak teachings. Recognized by King Kojong, the religion gained national acceptance. However, the Chundoists along with Korean Christians were the most vocal proponents of independence from Japan after Japan annexed Korea in 1910. When the 1 Mar