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SONGTAN HISTORY

1952-Present
Seojong-ni Background;
Osan AB (K-55) Background;
American Off-base Bar Culture;
Roads Surrounding K-55:

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Acknowledgement: Special thanks to Jack Terwiel, Capt, USAF (Ret) of the Osan Retired Activities Office for photos of base (past and present) -- Dan Klopten, Robert Furrer, Robert Evilsizor, Ron Freedman, Harry Tezlaf and Ken Shallenbarger. Special thanks to Jackie Turner, 7th AF Historian, and John Okonski, 51st FW Historian, for their assistance with photos and guidance on the history of Osan AB. Thanks to Curly Knepp, Maj, USAF (Ret) for his photos and direction in uncovering the history of the area. Thanks to Don Tomajan for his comments, photos and assistance on the EAB history. Thanks to Bob Spiwak for his narratives and photos of life at Osan AB.

Special thanks to Mr. Oh Sun-soo for his information on the development of Songtan. Special thanks to Mr. Jim Price for his sharing of his experiences during his long residence in Songtan. Special thanks to Mr. Yi Kyong Chu (Kasey Lee) for his help and direction in assembling this history. Special thanks to Ms. Jin Dal-lae and other staff members of the Jisan-dong Ward Office for taking the time to research and provide historical materials on Songtan and Pyongtaek City. Thanks to the Shinjang 1-dong Ward Office staff for their help. Much of the information on Pyongtaek City and the Songtan area was extracted from the Pyeongtaek City History, Pyeongtaek Si Sa. Thanks to the Songbuk Elementary School for permission to use their photos from their private collection.


View of Osan AB (USAF Photo)


THIS IS A WORK IN-PROGRESS AND FACTS ARE BEING ADDED/DELETED DURING THIS PROCESS. THIS IS NOT A COMPLETED HISTORY.


SEOJONG-NI:

Pre-Korean War The area was a key rice-growing region from ancient times. The December 1948 USAF Pilotage Chart for Kyongsong (380C) shows the spread of the flood plains in the area and availability of water from the Chinwi-chon River made rice growing primary industry. From the reports of flooding every ten years and complaints of the water table being too close to the surface, it indicates the area never suffered from the droughts that repeatedly plagued other areas of Korea. During the Japanese colonial period, Korea remained its "rice bowl" with ample exports of rice to Japan and Manchuria. It was only after the Korean War when mismanagement and lack of chemical fertilizers -- and sometimes droughts -- caused crop shortfalls. It was not until recent times that Korea could become a rice exporter again.

It appears that Seojong-ni was simply one of many rice-collection points in the area -- including the areas towards Anjung-ni. In reviewing the Pilotage Chart, we can see roads leading to Seojong-ni. There is a road leading down towards Anjung-ni. (NOTE: This would become the basic route of Rte 340 to Anjung.) In looking at the terrain, it is the most logical location for a road to the peninsula because of the hills between Osan and Seojong-ni. The road is at the base of the hills that surround K-55 and bypasses the flood plains of the Chinwi-chon River further north. Back then the Chinwi-chon River was actually a meandering river looking like a tightly wound snake on the 1948 Pilotage Chart. It spread out over a much larger area than present. The K-55 runway was constructed parallel to the river "to the north." Thus the road fords the river near Dongchang -- and was probably impassable during seasonal flooding.

All of the Seoul-Pusan traffic passed through the Seojong-ni area both as train and vehicular traffic -- though not necessarily stopping -- but as a spin-off, it contributed to the economy and development of the area.

From 1952 to 1981, Seojong-ni evolved separately as Seojong-myeon and was only seen as the nearest train station. However, most Koreans from the Songtan area used the intercity buses for transportation to Seoul or other cities along MSR-1 instead of the trains. Both towns were basically isolated from one another.

There are no indications that any American influence was ever established in Seojong-ni. In effect, the Seojong-dong area economy was primarily dependent on the KOREAN economy -- NOT K-55 (Osan AB). It would have remained the center of agricultural activity for the farmers in the area.

Later when industrial activity increased in the 1980s, Seojong-ni benefitted from this growth. Small repair and manufacturing shops were first established in this area. This is "industrial zone" would be where the used furniture and heavy machinery shops are now located in the Seojong-ni area.

Later Seojong-ni was incorporated into the Songtan City expansion in 1981. Then in turn in 1993, Songtan City was incorporated into Pyongtaek City. Up until 2005 when Songtan Station opened, the Seojong Station was the closest train station to Songtan and Osan AB.

Mistaken Impression by Osan AB of Seojong-ni Insignificance We have a MINOR concern that the impression is that there was NOTHING in the immediate area that would be classified as the "village" when Osan AB (K-55) was built -- giving the impression that the base was surrounded by small farming hamlets without any other "village" nearby.

In truth, the Seojong-ni Village nearby was a small center of commerce for the area. The rail station was plotted on navigation charts of the time (December 1948 USAF Pilotage Chart for Kyongsong (380C)) before the existence construction started on Osan AB (K-55). The designation "ni" (or "ri") for village is the lowest administrative designator for an area with a "significant population." Thus most certainly the two track line stopped there and a small rail yard was constructed for cars to be loaded with the rice and other agricultural products for transshipment to Japan out of Inchon (Chemulpo Harbor).

Thus, we feel that Seojong-ni (Seojong-ni) has been overlooked as the ORIGINAL village town when the base was first built -- though it was approximately two miles down from the main gate of Osan AB. What we are saying is that the current base history creates the impression that there was NOTHING in the area except farm hamlets. Seojong-ni was not simply a "village" in the sense that Americans perceive a group of huts, but a railroad yard and center of commerce on a small scale for the agricultural community during the Japanese colonial period. It had an open market and businesses along MSR-1 centered near the Seojong-ni Train Station.

Though we do recognize that once the base was built, Seojong-ni had virtually no importance to the base operations, we feel that it still needs to be recognized as a "village" with a "significant population" as belied it OFFICIAL designation as "ni." During and after the Korean War, Seojong-ni never benefitted from any of the direct benefits to its economy from Osan AB nearby -- except perhaps for having residents who worked on the base. As the base had its own spur (Shinjang overpass to Bravo Gate area) and sidings, there was no need for the Seojong-ni rail yard. he growth shifted to the Shinjang-dong (Jae-Yok dong)/Songbuk dong areas and Seojong-ni went into a period of decline.

In the 1960s-1970s, fhe Shinjang-dong (Jae Yok-dong) provided 80 percent of the income for the area with agriculture providing only a small percentage of the local economy. Remember that agriculture up to the 1970s was bare subsistence farming. Korea still was not self-sufficient in its grain production and relied on imported rice. After the 1960s, the government started a two-tier farm system to aid the farmers, by buying their rice at high prices and selling the rice at low prices to the public. This form of protectionism aided the farmers in surviving, while at the same time setting price controls on rice to ensure there was no price-gouging on rice prices. After the mid-1970s, Korea reached self-sufficiency through the use of chemical fertilizers after the completion of fertilizer plants throughout Korea. In the 1980s, it for the first time was able to export surplus rice.

Seojong-ni Train Station and Rail Yard

Seojong-ni sits only two miles from the main gate of Osan AB. Though we have little information on the development of Seojong-ni at this time, Seojong-ni contained a small rail yard for off-loading/on-loading agricultural produce and probably storage warehouses for the rice. There would probably also be a Japanese government trade building and a local bank, along with some stores for manufactured products.


(L) Seojong-ri Station (R) Railroad siding with a rail car and the Seojong-ri Station Platform in background (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



Map of Seojong Train Station Siding (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office) (NOTE: Shown is one siding warehouse that is no longer present. The siding tracks are not drawn.)



There were warehouses for the storage of the rice next to Seojong-ni Station. The map of Seojong-ni Station shows a siding warehouse (now demolished). The Farmers' Cooperative Warehouses are across the street from the siding tracks. Also if this was the case, there would also have to be a small local bank and business offices for the Japanese government, as well as stores for the sale of manufactured goods to the community. There was an open market that probably serviced the community prior to the K-55 construction.


Example of Japanese Concrete Railway Warehouse (Kunsan City: 1951) (Travis Hughlett)

Same Concrete Warehouse (Kunsan City: 2000) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Standard Japanese warehouse construction with concrete end piece (or brick with stucco) for the buildings with a pointed top and connected by cross-beams. The loading side had the eaves extended. Hooded ventilators were on the roof. Doors were on all sides. Sides of wood or bricks covered with stucco. (NOTE: These types were the low-end warehouses. The Japanese warehouses that contained high-value items had thicker end pieces that were built with concrete columns and then the spaces between were filled in with brick. The key identifier is a projection at the top of the end piece where the columns join. None have been found in Seojong-ni at this time.)



(L) The eaves have become the home of pigeons. Closeup of crude form-concrete construction for end piece. (R) The entry way of building to right shows one piece form-construction.



Buildings of the Farmers Cooperative across the street from the Seojong-ri Station. The building on the left has a concrete end pieces of standard Japanese design. Notice the standard ventilation hoods on the roof indicating a agricultural warehouse. The building in the middle is constructed with cinder-blocks indicating later construction -- most likely in the 1970s. The building on the right has a new end of sheet metal as the concrete end seems to have been destroyed, while the other parts of the building are standard Japanese design. The entrance to the building on the right is standard for an office structure. The right and left buildings show evidence of very old external wiring being strung for exterior lights. The buildings have had eave additions, gutters and new wiring added at a later date. The warehouses are directly across the National Road 1 (MSR-1) from the rail yard.


Example of Japanese Wooden Railway Warehouse (Kunsan City: 1951) (Travis Hughlett)



Railroad siding at Seojong-ri Station. The location for a warehouse would have been approximately where the parking lot is now. Top left photo shows parking lot fence. Notice the wooden ties used in this area. (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Currently next to the Seojong-ri Station there are no Japanese-era warehouses on the siding. From the curvature of the siding rails, the area where these warehouses would have been located is now a parking lot and open area with railcars on the siding. There are no siding warehouses in 2005.

A cursory look at the east-side of the main tracks (towards Anjung) shows that there are a few Japanese-style warehouse buildings near the tracks, but none close enough to be used for loading direct to railcars. We assume that all of these siding warehouse structures were torn down during the expansion of the Kyongbu Rail line and building of the modern Seojong-ri Station.

The tracks use of wooden rail ties in this area which indicates this siding area was used prior to the 1970s. The rail ties switched to concrete ties from the 1970s onward. The sidings are rusted from lack of usage. As there is only ONE siding track next to the Seojong-ni Station, we conclude that this was NOT an important rail yard, but simply and agricultural loading point.

Seojong-ni appears to have been the agricultural collection point during the Japanese colonial period because of the topography of the area -- the hills in the Jisan-dong and Songbuk dong areas impeded direct traffic. The roads connecting the eastern coastal areas to the railroad connected to Osan-ni and Seojong-ni.

On the December 1948 Pilotage Chart, a road leads from Seojong-ni to the east (now Route 340) until it comes to what might be Dongchang just before the Chinwi-chon River. It crosses the river and continues east until it reaches what might be Kochan where a road that follows the approximate path of Route 39 goes north-south. It then goes south to Anjung and north towards Pyeongni. The old road from Osan appears to be Route 82 to Sujik and then to Pyeongni where it connects to Route 39.

Seojong-ni is mentioned in the events following the outbreak of the Korean War. The troops were falling back in disarray and civilians were fleeing the area. The Korean National Railroad personnel fell back as the North Koreans advanced and loaded up the rail cars with as many people as could hang on. It would then fall back to the next railhead. Seojong-ni is mentioned as one such railhead stating: "The men of the Korean National Railroads showed great loyalty and courage during the withdrawal. In several instances train and engine crews moved their trains from a city as the infantry withdrew. At Seojong-ni the infantry had taken up positions south of the town while the KNR crews were still making up the last train." (Source: PART II Transportation Corps, 5. Problems in Railroad Operations (pp63-67) -- from Combat Support in Korea, John G. Westover (P/O Center of Military History Online Collection.)

The above statement shows that Seojong-ni had the capability and Korean National Railroad personnel along with the space on sidings to build up railcars. Because the refugees flocked to the area to load onto the cars wherever they could hang-on shows that this was recognized by the local population as a transportation hub.

During the Korean War, the Seojong-ni rail yards use was minimized as the first permanent building on Osan AB was the supply warehouse. Then a rail spur was built from where the present Shinjang rail overpass is -- through Shinjang to the old gates at the end of the bomb dump hill. It then proceeded to the Doolittle Gate area (where the bomb dump was) to Hill 170 (where the large concrete storage warehouse was). It then split into two spurs -- one down to the warehouses across from the Base Exchange and the other to the POL area on Hill 170. Thus there was no need for the Seojong-ni rail yard facilities as a intermediate sorting site -- and as a result, there was little interaction between Osan AB (K-55) and the Seojong-ni area.

Unlike other bases/camps where the train railheads were located a distance from the base. The munitions and fuel, the shipments went direct to the base without an intermediary rail yard. As such, thriving wartime economies that built up around the railheads never got a chance to get started at Seojong-ni. Seojong-ni languished. Seojong-ni was basically isolated from the base and never received any of the direct benefits from the GI dollars being spent off-base.

Undoubtedly, once stability returned to the area, the train station was used for transporting passengers and agricultural products, but it never grew in importance. Unlike during the Japanese colonial period, Korea couldn't export even a little of its rice output until the late 1960s so Seojong-ni's importance to the agricultural community was minimal. In addition, the use of the road systems for transportation, also minimized Seojong-ni's importance as well. The use of intercity buses and appearance of trucks to handle the hauling reduced the importance of the Seojong-ni Train Station.

After the Korean war, the situation continued with Seojong-ni simply being the nearest train station for Seoul, but the use of the train system was minimal as the bus system was preferred. Under the Rhee regime and until Park Chung-hee's 5-year plans started to take off, the local economy -- and Korea as a whole -- was solely dependent on the US spending/grants. Seojong-ni remained a poor country village.

After the war and up to the 1970s, Korea received $4 billion in direct aid and financial assistance to stay afloat. There was no industry or major exports to drive the economy. Without these elements, there was no domestic demand because of lack of spendable income. Life was hardest in the rural communities like Seojong-ni where the young people left for Seoul to find work in the factories there.


Map of Seojong-ni. (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office) (NOTE: Songtan Elementary School is identified with a circled "10".)



Early Schools In 1945, a school in Seojong-ni was established and called the Jisan-ni Training School "branch." It moved to its 3-classroom school house in 1947 and became the Seojong-ni Elementary School in 1948. It would be renamed the Songtan Elementary School in 1996.

(NOTE: On 1 March 1996, it was renamed Songtan Elementary School. It is currently located in Kajae-dong, Pyongtaek City in the vicinity of the Seojong (Seojong) Train Station. (SEE "1955: Songbuk Elementary School Founded" for details of the educational system history.)
The Pyeongtaek history, Pyeongtaek Si Sa, has a reference to the school but no photos from that period. At that time, this school was not considered important -- but now the Seojong Elementary School is considered the oldest "modern" school in the Songtan area. However, Seojong Elementary is NOT the oldest as the Hyomung Catholic School was founded in Seojong-ni in 1930. This later would evolve into the Hyomyeong Middle School and High School. After WWII, the intent of these schools was to teach the Koreans to once again read "hangul" (Korean) -- after years of Japanese colonial rule which banned the use of Hangul in schools in 1937 -- and it succeeded as the Korean populace currently has a 98 percent literacy rate.

Old City Area At this time, we do not have firm information as to the actual size of Seojong-ni at the start of the Korean War, but we can guess from the layout of the streets that it covered an area of approximately four square blocks at the center with outlying farm villages surrounding it. Streets in the older part of Seojong-ni followed the topography indicating pre-1950s growth WITHOUT Japanese influence. Japanese construction followed the western grid pattern for streets starting in the late 1880s. All new road construction by the Japanese followed this grid pattern.

The map of Songtan area showing the Seojong-ni area has the area up to the 1960s outlined in pink. The map is especially helpful as it provides an overlay of previous roads as subdued features. Judging from the pattern of the houses, it is obvious this was nothing more than a farming village. Though we have no pictures of the village, we surmise that it looked very similar to the Osan-ni village. The open market was literally an open market with farmers hawking their produce in the open.

At the northern limit of Seojong-ni Village (between the Route 340 and the Sejong Market Road (MSR-1)), the houses were sparce. The map indicates that there were dirt roads that curved following the topography leading to villages in the area. Circular clusters of houses indicate that there were natural artesian springs in the area. There is a circular cluster in the northern area of Seojong-ni above the school. There is another circular grouping in the open market area near the "Y" of Seojong Market Road. The confluence of hills in the area with a water table near the surface made these types of artesian wells common in the area.

Water would have to be obtained from a central well. In fact, the Seojong means "West Well." It is common-sense that Korean villages were built where there was an artesian well or flowing river nearby. Because the water table was so close to the surface, artesian wells were common in the area. After concrete water mains were installed in the 1960s, these wells were capped.


Map of Seojong-ni. (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office) (NOTE: The pink area is the 1960s areas of the city prior to its expansion.)



The open market was relatively small. In the 1950s, it probably was an open market in the literal sense with produce and wares on the ground. Because of the Korean War, in the 1950s, it probably did not have much to offer except condiments and other specialty crops along with butcher shops. At the time, the other open market was in Osan-ni 8km away. Later stalls would have been added and then shops for providing for the needs of the surrounding community. As the economy recovered, the shops in the market place would have revived, but it never became anything more than a community shopping area as the Jungang Market in Shinjang appeared then the Songbuk Open Market opened in the 1960s near the new population center outside Osan AB (K-55). It appears that the Seojong-ni community remained relatively small even after Osan AB appeared. Besides small contracts to local businesses and employment of local residents, the Seojong-ni area probably received very little in the way of tangible benefits from K-55.

The rest of the town seemed to be laid out in a haphazard manner. The older dirt roads arched around the hills to link houses with no particular design indicating a pre-1980s layout. The houses were built at the base of low-lying hills and the houses seemed to have been laid out in tiers -- a pattern for a farming village. The arching of the roads indicate the topography as the roads circled the hill and then dead ended at the tier end.

It is apparent that in the 1950s, the area near the train station low one-story Korean style houses were the norm. An example of these houses is shown in the photos below. Traditional Korean-style houses prefer a central courtyard in the front -- no matter how small and the roof-line is traditionally higher. The traditional house had rooms around a central courtyard with the entrance was through the courtyard. On the other hand, Korean town-houses had a sliding door at the entrance which opened into a small area for removing ones shoes. The Japanese versions of these Korean-style houses used tatami mats for floor coverings with a central fire pit. If the area was large enough, a courtyard was in the rear of the house. The Korean versions used hondol heating. The poorer versions of these homes -- such as near the train stations or farmer's houses -- used transite (corrugated concrete-asbestos sheets) over packed clay sitting on the sheets of plywood in the ceiling.


1960s-style house (L) Rough-hewn roof supports (R) Single door front-entry with 1970s ceramic-tile exterior upgrade. Roofing material is transite (concrete/asbestos material) used in the 1960s on the poorer homes. Notice how low the eaves are. (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


The house above is a typical Korean town-house for the lower classes which featured very low-roof lines that appeared in the late 1950s and 1960s. This house belonged to a poor family as indicated by the transite (corrugated concrete/asbestos sheets) used as roofing material. Under the transite, the Koreans normally used packed clay mixed with straw as an insulator in the ceiling. Plywood was used for the ceiling. The construction was standard for the period with the roof and main members constructed of rough-hewn pieces. The eaves were very low -- approximately eight feet. The front of the house shown has been upgraded with ceramic tiles which were popular during the mid-1970s when buildings in the area upgraded their appearance. Along the side of the structure is an outside cooking area.

Other examples of this type of house (though not as well preserved) are still found behind the main store fronts of Seojong-ni on the MSR-1. Many of the structures are abandoned. For example, the one next to the warehouses above is overgrown with vines and reeks of pigeon droppings. Other examples seen near the train station (behind the storefront buildings) were in much poorer condition than this one -- and will be most likely demolished in the very near future.

In most of these older buildings with a courtyard, the outhouse (or "water closet" sometimes with "WC" written on them) was in the corner of the courtyard away from the sleeping quarters. In most poor urban areas, a central "outhouse" was built for a cluster of houses consisting of a large hole in the ground with boards over it where one squatted. These pits were periodically emptied by local farmers of the "night soil" for use as fertilizer. In larger city slums, smaller outhouses were built along the hillsides.

Modern Construction: After the 1980s when the first high-rise apartments were built, the entire Seojong area seems to have been rebuilt with streets laid out on a grid pattern. The oldest houses that remain in the area are of 1960s type construction instead of the traditional Korean farm houses. Near the train station there were low one-story Korean town-style houses in the area, but not tightly packed.

As one follows the MSR-1 Bypass Road (Shinjang Road) past the Route 340 turn-off, apartment complexes appear on the left. These low apartment structures were the norm for the first apartment constructions in the area and were primarily for the lower income families.

The MSR-1 Bypass Road (Shinjang Road) continues veering to the right until it comes to an intersection. To the right, the new high-rise apartments appear. These are the newer upscale apartments for the area. The Sejong Market Road (MSR-1) joins the MSR-1 Bypass (Shinjang Road) at this intersection. If you turn right, you will go down to the road where you can the turn right to go to the Seojong-ni Train Station. Going straight ahead, the road becomes the Hyomyeong School Road.

After the rise of the Shinjang-dong (Jae-Yok-dong) area in importance, growth was limited in the Seojong area during the 1960s. Houses remained sparse between the Seojong-ni and the Shinjang-dong area (Jae Yok-dong). The area became Seojong-myeon. Seojong-myeon was made up of the villages of (1) Cheoncheon (2) Jijang (3) Pokchang (4) Shinchang (5) Saguri; and (5) Wanjokpong.

However, with the start of the Miracle of the Han River in the 1970s, more small manufacturing shops moved into the area. Along the MSR-1, three-four story concrete buildings were erected. The growth in the Seojong-ni area spread outwards towards the Shinjang-dong area and into the Jangang-dong area.

By the 1980s, the growth had reached the boundaries of the Shinjang area and more small-to-mid-sized factories moved into the area because of the lack of space in Seoul as well as the growth in Seoul south of the Youngdongpo area which was connected by the MSR-1. Three story apartment complexes were erected in the area. The streets in this area of expansion followed a grid pattern indicating post-1980s construction, but the streets were very narrow -- mainly because there were few cars in those days.

In 1981 Songtan-eup (town) changed to Songtan-shi (city) and Seojong-myeon was incorporated into Songtan. It became Seojong-dong and was divided into Seojong 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9. It was during this time that the Songtan "dream" of melding Songtan and Seojong-ni into one city -- Songtan City -- was born. The Seojong Tourism Road was the central area between Seojong-ni and Songtan.

The most of the store fronts throughout Seojong-ni are of recent construction (1970s or later). Most of the major roads in Seojong-ni are not the original roads, except for the Seojong Market Road (MSR-1), Shinjang Road (MSR-1 Bypass Road) and Hyomyeong School Road. Likewise, most of the construction in Seojong-ni is of recent manufacture.

We can find no evidence of any remaining Japanese influence in Seojong-ni. Some of the older buildings near the open market could possibly be from the Japanese era, but there is nothing that distinctively identifies them as Japanese. For example, Japanese buildings were made from red fire bricks giving them a distinctive look. Other Japanese structures followed the art-deco pattern of the 1930s. Seojong-ni being a minor farming community railhead most likely did not have any of these type structures. In addition, the anti-Japanese frenzy of the 1990s saw the destruction of most Japanese buildings and structures so the examples of Japanese architecture in Korea are becoming rare.

Seojong-ni Roads The northern limit of the city was Route 340 leading to Anjung. This road off the MSR-1 Bypass Road (Shinjang Road) leads the overpass of the Kyongbu Railroad lines. The western limit was the Kyongbu Railway line and the eastern limit was the MSR-1 Bypass Road (Shinjang Road). The southern limit was near the junction of the original MSR-1 (Seojong Market Road) and the MSR-1 Bypass Road (Shinjang Road).

The present Route 340 goes over the railroad tracks (overpass) just before Seojong-ni Station. This is the northern limit of the old Seojong-ni Village. This road continues on and there is an intersection at Dongchang where going right takes you parallel with Osan Air Base and leads to the main gate area of Osan AB. If you go straight on the road, you will run into the "Alpha Site" of Osan AB for munitions storage. If you continue straight, it crosses the normally-dry river bed (Chinwi-chon River). (NOTE: If you compare the 1948 map with the present day maps of the Chinwi-cheon River, one can see the river is much smaller in its "spread" and it obviously has been "contained" by flood control projects.) The road then continues on to Kochan where it intersects with Route 39. It goes south to Anjung and north to Pyeongni.

The original MSR-1 bypassed the Seojong Train Station area, instead passing through the open market area. This is now a one-way street called the Seojong Market Road. The old open market place exists a block away from the station. Businesses sprang up along MSR-1 on the Seojong Market Road as it passed through Seojong-ni. There appears to be an older road that cut through the market place and went to the Seojong-ni Train Station.


Road leading to Songtan. (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: This road appears to have been built in the 1980s judging from the construction materials in the buildings fronting the road. The original MSR-1 diverted through the open market as Seojong Market Road.)


The road in front of the Seojong-ni Train Station was NOT built as part of the original path of the MSR-1. In the Korean War, the MSR-1 followed the railroad tracks and at the area where there is a "Y" for one-way traffic to the Pyeongtaek Station, the MSR-1 went left as Seojong Market Road and continued straight until it exited Seojong when it rejoined up with the MSR-1 Bypass Road to the south of Seojong-ni. (NOTE: At this point we theorize that the road construction in front of the Seojong-ni Station was in the 1980s because of the grid pattern of the streets around the Train Station and also the road had no continuation after the Station.)


OSAN AIR BASE (K-55):

Japanese Airfield??? In the past there was some discussion about there possibly being a Japanese airstrip from "secondary" and "tertiary" sources. This was probably NOT the case. Most likely the confusion comes from references are made from the notes that during the later part of World War II, the Japanese conscripted 20,000 Korean laborers to build a Naval Logistics Center in the Pyeongtaek area. This was later referred to as being used by the US Army as an airfield near Anjung-ni. This was, in fact, K-6 (Pyongtaek AB) in the Korean War -- which later became Camp Humphreys.

There is no indication on any charts that such a Japanese airfield existed in the Songtan area. The maps below are from the December 1948 USAF Pilotage Chart for Kyongsong (380C), scale 1:500,000 with air info current Jan 1951. It shows 2 fields in the vicinity of what is now Osan AB. One is 3 nautical miles SW of P'yongtaek and is labeled P'YONGT'AENG-NI as an emergency field with a 5100 ft. hard surface runway, field elevation of 62 ft. (Map notation: 62 H 51) The other is 2 NM S of Suwon and is labeled SUWON as a military field with a 5200 ft. hard surface runway, field elevation 60 ft. (Map notation: 60 H 52).




1948 USAF Pilotage Chart for Kyongsong (380C) (Click on chart to enlarge)

(Courtesy Hans Peterman)


Beginnings of Osan AB (K-55) The beginnings of Songtan as a city started with the construction of Osan AB (K-55). The development started with the filling in of the rice fields behind Chicol-ni Village to the left as one exited the gate as well as creation of the shanty-town called "Chong-mun eup" (Front Gate town). The expansion then moved up the base of Milwal-dong and around to the Hill 180 Gate (ROKAF Gate). From here the expansion moved up to the ridge line along MSR-1 until by the 1960s, the Songtan-myeon (district) area was redesignated as a town or Songtan-eup.

"The entire area that now encompasses Osan AB included four tiny farming villages near the hillsides, and a large number of rice paddy areas where the runway now lies. The villages clustered at the base of the hillsides were moved to make room for the base. The villages that were removed were: Jeuk Bong-ri, Chang Deung-ri, Shin Ya-ri and Ya-ri." (Source: History of Osan Air Base, Republic of Korea, Osan Air Base Historical Office, April 1999 and GlobalSecurity.org: Osan AB.)

We can account for seven villages (hamlets) -- and have the names for five of them.
  • (1) Unknown hamlet: The first relocated hamlet (cluster of small mudwattle houses) was on Bomb Dump hill (now called the Beta Area). There were people living on the bomb dump hill on early 1952 photos while the runway was being constructed, but by 1953 this village had been relocated. This would be considered part of Namsan-ni. The bomb dump hill (now called the "Beta site" ammunition storage) was decomposed granite which was used as fill for the runway construction.

  • (2) Unknown hamlet: The second hamlet was on Hill 170. According to Ed McManus, Col, USA (ret), the 841st EAB was at the base of Hill 170 near the antenna farm. There was a Korean Village on the hillside behind the 841st area on Hill 170. It was near where the fuel tanks where the POL tanks were positioned. On a 8mm film by Robert Evilsizor, Commander, Co. A, 839th EAB, shows Koreans on Hill 170 taking the thatch roofs off of their houses and loading the thatch six-feet high onto three oxen and then heading off to the south on the newly-made taxiway in 1952. This hamlet would be considered part of Namsan-ni on the other side of the hill.

  • (3) Shinjang-ni: The third village was Shinjang-ni which was located just outside the present Doolittle gate to the north of the dirt road leading to the Gate. (Source: Aug 1951 839th EAB Overview Construction Drawing) Like Namsan-ni, the Shinjang-ni village was actually a group of hamlets and isolated farm houses combined that stretched to the MSR-1 to the east and Seotan-myeon. (Source: Verbal Conversation Kalani O'Sullivan with Mr. Oh Son-soo, 21 July 2005) A photo by Bob Spiwak in 1953 shows Shinjang-ni very close to the End-of-Runway area. Portions of this village would have had to be relocated when the Perimeter Road was constructed. Up to the 1970s, aerial photos of Osan AB indicated a farm village to the right of the Doolittle Gate area -- accessed separately from the MSR-1 road.


    Photo towards End-of-Runway (1953) (Bob Spiwak) (NOTE: Close-in house belongs to Namsan-ri Village on Hill 170. In the distance to the right is Shinjang-ni and to the left is Shin-Yari and Yari.)


  • Yari: The fourth village of Yari was on the north side of the runway and removed when the Perimeter road was built. This village along with Shin-Yari were to the north west of the base (towards Seotan-myeon). This Yari and Shin-Yari were shown in old photos taken after the runway was built. However, by 1954, the villages no longer appear in any of the photos. The sand pit was located near the villages.

  • (5) Shin-Yari: The fifth area was north-west of Yari in Seotan-myeon moved for the runway expansion and building of the Perimeter Road.

  • (6) Chokbong-ni (Jeuk-Bong-ri): The fourth village was located right above the supply warehouse on the slopes of Hill 180. It appears that the villagers on Hill 180 were allowed to remain in place while the construction of the base was proceeding in 1952. 8mm movies shot by Robert Evilsizor, Commander Co. A, 839th EAB, showed people of Chokbong-ni moving about in a panoramic shot of the runway area. This village would be relocated when they started building housing and infrastructure on the hillside in 1953-1954. The advance element of the 5th Air Force relocated to the general area of the village.

  • (7) Chang Deung-ri (Enheng Jengui): This village was located in the present golf course area. At the time, a Class IV bomb storage area was built to support a second wing and the base reservoir was built in this area. (NOTE: See Enheng Jengui and Ginko Tree comments)


How Osan AB (K-55) was named In 1951, all the bases in Korea received a K-designator, with "K" meaning Korea. The number gives you an idea of when it originated. K-55 (Osan-ni Air Base) was near the end of the list with K-56 not completed because of the end of the Korean War. For example, K-1 Pusan-West Air Base and K-2 Taegu Air Base reflected how the allied forces had been pushed into the Pusan Perimeter. K-6 was Pyongtaek Air Field (which later became Camp Humphreys), K-8 was Kunsan Air Base, and K-13 was Suwon Air Base. All of these were Japanese airfields prior to being upgraded for use by jet aircraft. However, the new Osan-ni air field was being built from scratch and therefore its number was much higher.

The end of the K-designators became the ROKAF bases K-57 (Kwang'ju Air Base); K-58 (Yecheon Air Base); K-59 (Cheongju Air Base); K-60 (Songmu Air Base); K-75 (Chungwon Air Base); K-76 (Seosan Air Base); K-60 (Songmu Air Base); K-75 (Chungwon Air Base); K-76 (Seosan Air Base). (See Korean War Reference Page for more information of K-bases.)

AIRFIELD LOCATION AND IDENTIFICATION CODES (Jack Barclay)
This map and messages can be found at:
The Korean War Project: K-Bases in Korea.


As to the name selection of "Osan-ni Air Base", there appears to be no satisfactory answer from both long-time residents and other sources as to how the base got its name. Originally designated "Osan-ni Air Base" (K-55), the base was redesignated as "Osan Air Base" in September 1956. The name "Osan-ni AB" proved to be quite confusing to military personnel and by 1952, it had already slipped to oblivion amongst flying personnel with the base being referred to as "K-55" or "Osan AB."

Interestingly, the specifications directive of the 934th Engineering Aviation Group for the construction of the runway in 1951 calls the project the "Osan Air Field runway" -- not "Osan-ni" -- throughout the document. It appears that the name Osan-ni started disappearing even before the runway was completed. Actually, the name "Osan-ni Air Base" was so confusing by 1952, military personnel were already referring to the base as "Osan Air Base." It took until 1956 to change all the paperwork. However, even till today, many Americans are confused by Osan City not being in close proximity to the base -- and many mistakenly follow the road maps to Osan City before realizing that Osan AB is NOT in that area.

(NOTE: Koreans in the Songtan area do NOT use "Osan" to refer to the base as a matter of pride as "Osan" refers to the next city down the road. Instead the air base (piyanggi) is referred to "K-55" from the "K" base designator system used in the Korean War. Even the bus from Pyeongtaek to Songtan that follows the old MSR-1 route (Main Supply Route 1) paralleling the Kyongbu railroad. It continues to use the designation of "K-55" for the Osan AB area. Even today if you go to the Shinjang-1 dong House Office, the area map on the wall shows "K-55" -- NOT "Osan AB." Most traffic signs refer to "AFOC" (Air Force Operations Command" (AFOC Gate), "K-55" or "Piyangi" (Air Base in Hangul (Korean). There is only one sign we have seen on Route 1 at the Doolittle Gate (Back Gate) intersection that says "Osan Air Base" and only one sign on Shinjang Road that says "Main Gate.")
The term "Osan Air Base" was not only confusing to Americans, it was also confusing to Koreans as well. A story related by Mr. Chong Kyu-sok told of how as a ROKAF airman he was ordered to Osan AB in 1958. He boarded a train and got off at Osan-ni. Arriving late at night, he asked where the base was. They pointed to the bright lights in the distance where search lights were lighting the sky. Not realizing the distance, he started walking and soon realized that it was not as near as the lights seemed to indicate. This experience was not only himself, but with most ROKAF personnel ordered to report to Osan-ni Air Base. Instead of getting off the train at the nearby Seojong-ni Train Station (1km down the road), most got off the train at the Osan-ni Train Station (8km away). (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan and Mr. Chong Kyu-sok, 21 July 2005.)

The base was not named for any of the villages on the site. Supposedly, the first base commander named the base "Osan-ni," because it was the only village shown in this region on military maps. We do NOT accept this explanation as military maps clearly showed "Seojong-ni" (Sojang) and its train station.

According to the Osan Air Base Historical Office, April 1999, "The base was not named for any of the villages on the site. The first base commander named the base Osan, as it was the only village shown in this region on military maps and because it was easy to pronounce. The word "Osan" means Crow Hill. The four villages that were moved to make room for the base were Jeuk-Bong-Ri, Chang-Deung-ri, Shin-Ya-Ri and Ya-Ri. A large ginkgo tree that was in the Village Square of one of these villages still stands on a hill in the present golf course site." (Source: Brief History of Osan AB. This version is parroted in many histories of Osan AB.)

  • The claim that Osan-ni was the "only village shown in this region on military maps" cannot be substantiated as the December 1948 Pilotage Charts (used at the start of the Korean War) has BOTH Osan-ni and Seojong-ni (Sojang-ni) shown on the maps. (Source: World Pilotage Charts provided by Hans Peterman. December 1948 USAF Pilotage Chart for Kyongsong (380C), scale 1:500,000 with air info current Jan 1951.) On the map, the name of Seojong-ni was "Sojang-ni" which was the Japanese name for the town.

    As Seojong-ni village was only about two miles from where K-55 was sited, it should have been the logical choice for the name. But somehow the name "Osan-ni AB" was selected and that was that. (Source: Retiree Activities Office (Osan AB))

  • Another alleged reason was that "Osan" was easy to pronounce. The word "Osan" means Crow Hill. (Source: Retiree Activities Office (Osan AB).) We find this reason hard to justify as "Seojong" is two syllables long as well. Thus this is not a good reason for why "Osan-ni AB" was chosen.
Corrections to Some Misleading Historical References We comment on the Brief History of Osan AB dated April 1999 because it has been quoted and requoted in so many sources that we respect highly. The current Brief Osan AB history at 51st FW History Site has revised most of these areas. The History of Osan Air Base dated April 1999 states: "The ROK government allowed the U.S. Air Force to purchase 1,250 acres in 1952 to expand the base. A fifth Korean village (unnamed) was relocated in 1953 to enlarge the compound area for the location of Headquarters, 5th Air Force, which maintained an advanced headquarters until the arrival of the 314th Air Division in 1954. Elements of the 839th, 841st, and 417th Engineering Battalions took part in constructing the base. The rolling hills were transformed into a base of operation and the runway was completed in less than six months. The runway opened in December 1952, with the advance elements of the 18th Fighter-Bomber Wing arriving for duty late in the month. The 18th FBW provided air operations in support of UN ground forces during the Korean conflict." (Source: History of Osan Air Base, Republic of Korea, Osan Air Base Historical Office, April 1999; 51st FW History Site; VFW Post 10216; and GlobalSecurity.org: Osan AB.)

  • The first sentence is misleading. The US did NOT "purchase" the land for Osan AB. Like all the other bases in Korea built during the Korean War, they were granted for use by the UN and US forces INDEFINITELY. However, unlike other countries where it is for a specific term or a 100-year occupancy clause, the ROK has none attached. But the point is that the US did NOT "purchase" Osan -- and remains at the pleasure of the ROK.

    To some NGO activists this "rent-free" use of the land is unjust and has remained a bone of contention. The City of Pyeongtaek also finds the USAF tenancy at Osan AB extremely irksome as the USAF is answerable only through the Ministry of Defense on land usage -- and NOT to any local authority.

    However, in the most negative of senses, the US did "buy" the land use. In the early years of the ROK government, the US virtually subsidized the corrupt Syngman Rhee regime whereby the US monetary grants and aid programs propped up the ROK economy. Because of this "control," the ROK had no Status of Forces Agreement (SOFA) with the US until 1963 -- long after the defeated WWII nations of Japan and Germany had SOFAs in place. In effect, from 1953 to 1963, the ROK had no say-so in the administration of the bases nor prosecution of soldiers who committed major crimes.

    Regardless of all the flimsy excuses, the free nation of the Republic of Korea had a SOFA AFTER the defeated nations of WWII -- and only after Park Chung-hee had come to power. Until the first revision of the SOFA in 1991, the US paid for much of the ROK's defense bill either through outright grants or FMS (Foreign Military Sales) giveaways. By remaining under the US nuclear umbrella, the ROK "chaebol" system -- like the Japanese "kiretsu" system -- was able to prosper and the ROK was able to divert its capital to the expansion of its economy rather than expend it on defense.

    However, after the Miracle of the Han brought prosperity to Korea, this "ownership" issue of the base has become a contentious item. The radicals claim that the US is here for its own geopolitical purposes so why should Korea pay for US forces -- while the ROK government in 2005 flat refused to increase its cost share and came out with a plan to REDUCE its forces by 2020. The movement of the USFK to Pyeongtaek (K-6 Camp Humphreys and K-55 Osan AB) will cost approximately $3.5 billion out of the Korean coffers. The ROK does NOT want to pay this amount and has constantly attempted to "renegotiate." There are now angry words heard in Congress over Korea's stance with respect to North Korea. To many Congressmen, the ROK cannot have US troops to defend against North Korean aggression, while providing direct aid and monetary support of the North Korean regime. The US finally started playing hardball in 2003 and stated it was relocating from Yongsan COMPLETELY with the exception of the CFC headquarters -- but there are moves afoot in moving elements of I Corps to Camp Zama in Japan that may affect the CFC if the Japanese rewrite Article 9 of the Japanese Peace Constitution.

    On 1 Aug 2005, a Japanese news report in the Daily Yomiuri stated that a new US Army command to be set up at Camp Zama in Japan would assume charge in an emergency on the Korean Peninsula. The command, a "UEX" under new acronymic US forces nomenclature, is smaller than the Washington-based Army First Corps command initially considered for the move to the camp in Kanagawa Prefecture, and combines the functions of a division and army corps. The daily said direct command of the UEX would be limited to an emergency on the Korean Peninsula, while the PRC-Taiwan "hot zone" and conflicts in Southeast Asia included in the "arc of instability" would come under the command of the Third Marine Expeditionary Force based in Okinawa. However, in any Korean emergency US Marine units in Okinawa would come under the operational command of the UEX. (NOTE: This Camp Zama move has been in the works for two years and assumes the role of the Combined Forces Command leadership role in the ROK -- and more significantly, though unstated, the elimination of the USFK role in CFC at Yongsan.)

    Japan's governing Liberal Democratic Party released its first draft of constitutional revisions in Aug 2005, in which it proposed having armed forces for not only self-defense but also international contributions. New clauses are designed to clear the way for Japan to exercise the right of collective self-defense, or coming to the military aid of an ally.
    Though the US and ROK routinely announce the soundness of the US-ROK alliance, most experts agree that the US-ROK relationship is at a crossroads.

    After the 1991 SOFA Agreement, the ROK has been hounded to increase (1) its defense spending to 3.2 percent of GDP -- as most front-line "flash-point" nations of the world spend up to 6 percent of GDP. (NOTE: The percentage of GDP for defense has actually decreased steadily from 8 percent at the start of Kim Dae-jung administration down to under 2.8 percent of GDP under the Roh Moo-hyun administration.); and (2) increase is "share" of costs for housing US troops in Korea -- such as Japan which pays for 75 percent of costs. Construction of new housing for personnel at Camp Humphreys is proceeding but the USFK claims it is NOT for the move but pre-approved construction. New construction at Osan AB is also proceeding in an area WITHIN the base perimeter. Areas at K-6 designated for USFK use has resulted in violent demonstrations in July 2005 with more expected in the future.

    The antagonistic viewpoint of the existence of Osan AB is also evidenced in the local area. In the 1990s, the ROK reserved land for the use of the elements that were to be relocated from Yongsan under a MOA signed and ratified in 1990. Unfortunately the ROK dragged its feet as it refused to come up with monies to facilitate the move. In 2000, Pyeongtaek City requested the lands that had lain fallow at Osan AB be transferred to the city. This spurred the transfer of the lands by the ROK Ministry of Defense to the ROKAF and the building of the AFOC (Air Force Operations Command) on its location.

  • The phrasing to "expand the base" gives the impression that the base was established and then "expanded" in 1952 by 1,250 acres. We believe this is misleading. The 1,250 acre figure given was the original base size in 1952. Though the base has expanded in various directions over the years, in 1952, the base did not grow much until the 1990s when the Yongsan personnel were to be moved to Osan and the ROK reserved land for the US use. This land was not utilized because the ROK refused to allocate funding for the move and the land reverted to ROKAF use. Osan AB currently occupies 1,661 acres plus 88 acres for an Alpha site 2 miles from the base. (Source: Osan AB: Conservation)

  • The "fifth Korean village (unnamed)" in our opinion is actually one of the original four listed: Chang Deung-ri. However, it went by a different name of Eunheng Jengui on the Ginko tree plaque at the Golf Course (and mistakenly showing incorporation into the base in 1950) leading to confusion. The location of this village is given by John Sullivan, former 51st Wing Historian and presently USAFE Director of History. The key is the Ginko Tree which is a local landmark on the golf course. John wrote in Apr 2005:

    "When MOH Recipient and Bayonet Charge hero Millett visited (four times during my tenures in Korea), the discussions were long and painful. Local, and amateur, historians were adamant that the Chinese never reached Osan AB (that far south) and based their discussions on Army Morning Reports. They had me convinced until I saw Millett's drawings in his Korean War notebook that showed a large ginko tree in the center of the town where he took enemy gunfire. The historian in me took several of us to the Kyonggi-Do Mayor's Office and then to several "authorities" who all stated that only one ginko tree survived the Korea War and it was in the center of the town of - whatever that village with the long name was - and that led credence to Millett's claim of the Hill 180 location. That, and his drawings, which matched the Osan AB Hill to a "T" - so I ended the debate."
    Thus we know the Ginko tree talked about above was in the center of ENHENG JENGUI -- and since the Ginko tree is on the golf course, we know that Enheng Jengui was located where the present golf-course is. As we know that 5th AF relocated to the golf course area, Enheng Jengui is just another name for one of the villages we had already accounted for in photos displayed on this site.

  • The "417th Engineering Aviation Battalion" was a BRIGADE -- NOT a Battalion -- stationed at Taegu (K-2) from 1952-1954. Some elements of the 417th were at Osan AB, but the main unit remained at K-2. A Brigade in the Korean War consisted of two or more battalions According to The U.S. Air Force in Korea (p499), "In May and June 1952, the 417th Engineer Aviation Brigade, the 934th Engineer Aviation Group, and the 366th, 840th, and 841st Engineer Aviation Battalions unloaded in Korea. From its command post at Taegu, the 417th Brigade filled a long-standing need for an agency which could supervise the construction of air facilities in the combat zone. The Fifth Air Force's director of installations now ordered construction and specified requirements; the 417th Brigade supervised the actual work and administered the aviation engineer troops." The 934th was tasked for construction of an entirely new jet fighter airfield on the flood plain of the Chinwi-chon River south of Suwon, at the village of Osan-ni." (NOTE: The 366th EAB built K-9; the 840th and 841st EABs assisted the 839th at K-55 and then in early 1953, the 841st EAB went to Kunsan to complete the north-south runway. The 839th EAB remained at Osan until 1955 when it was slated for deactivation.)

  • There is a another point that should be made at this time. According to GlobalSecurity.org: Osan AB, "Prior to its use as an air base, Osan's site housed an army regiment." Others have often repeated this comment. Though it appears to be accepted fact, we believe the reference to a REGIMENT on the base is erroneous. For this alleged Army regiment to be "housed" on the base, it would have to moved into the Osan AB area AFTER the Fourth Chinese Campaign (April 1951) and when the Chinese were pushed back over the Kansas and Wyoming bulge in June 1951. This leaves a window of from Jun 51 (when the Chinese were pushed back to the Wyoming line) to Jun 52 (when the 839th EAB arrived to construct the base). But who were these Army troops???

    It was standard procedure to rotate troops to the rear after a period of heavy action on the front lines. Though it is possible that Army troops were relocated to the rear in the local area for rest, normally they would be sent to "established" bases -- NOT an undeveloped waste land. It would have been very unusual. We may never know what unit(s) -- if any -- were in the local area before Jun 1952. However, it most certainly was NOT a regiment. An Army regiment in the Korean War consisted of 2000-3000 men. For this amount of men to be "housed" at the base would require a significant amount of space for tents and messing facilities. There is NO indication that there ever was such an occupancy. When the 839th EAB arrived their first priority was constructing their living area in what would become the base theater/Tumuri Lodge area. (Source: Don Tomajan article on EAB and photo by Robert Evilsizor.) In addition, in 1953 the Graves and Registration were still recovering American bodies from Task Force Smith -- which would have been done previously if an Army Regiment had been in the area between 1951-52. (Source: Ron Freedman narrative) The reference to an Army REGIMENT simply does NOT make sense.

    We believe that the reference to an Army REGIMENT in fact refers to the 839th Engineering Aviation BATTALION of about 1000 men -- Company A, B, C; HQ Company; and Support unit. They were SCARWAF -- Special Category Army with Air Force. The SCARWAF units were originally stateside Army reserve units, but when they arrived in Korea they became a strange mix of both Army and USAF heavy construction specialists working together. It was the forerunner of the USAF famous "Red Horse" units (CESHR). Though it is true that the USAF's 18th FBW officially took over the base in Dec 52, it was really already an Air Force base once the 839th EAB started in to work. We believe that somewhere along the line some facts became confused about the Army SCARWAF presence at Osan AB (K-55). This has been a common mistake for the SCARWAF as not many understood its operations.



AMERICAN OFF-BASE BAR CULTURE IN SHINJANG AREA

The first "bar row" was the Namsan village at the base of Hill 170 before the Hill 180 Main Gate was opened. A clap-trap bar advertising "ice cold beer" and working girls were located there. The village was located in the "dimple" area of Hill 170 off-base. This off-base area was abandoned as a "bar row" when the Main Gate at Hill 180 opened.

This is now the Namsan Village area in Shinjang 1(il)-dong area in the "dimple area" of Hill 170 next to the Bravo Gate. There was a perimeter fence around Hill 170 dividing the village from the hill but access was through the rail spur area. After the Main Gate on Hill 180 opened in 1954, this area's "bar row" was abandoned and the area reverted to being sparsely populated with farm houses.



(L) Black Market Mamasans outside Compound Fence (1953) (Bob Spiwak) (R) Getting a beer in Village (Namsan Village area) (1953) (Bob Spiwak)


Local Working Girls in Namsan Village area (1953) (Bob Spiwak)


In Namsan-ni Village (1953) (Bob Spiwak) (NOTE: Sign for 24-hour service from Jaeil Photo Shop. Left is country house converted into restaurant. Items under sign include Korean-style desks so these items are for sale.)


On the other side of the base at Hill 180 to the west, the Hill 180 gate opened and immediately Makum-ni became a center of prostitution -- frequented mostly by the Army anti-aircraft personnel situated on the top of Hill 180. Makum-ni was at the base of a sharp incline if one turned right as one exited the Hill 180 gate. Ron Freedman of Punta Gorda FL was a 2nd Lt. with the 398th AAA AW Bn at K55. He stated, "There was a village called Makum-ni down the bottom of the hill on the west side. It was filled with prostitutes, and we had a terrible time keeping the GI's out of it. Our CO told us that we had the highest VD rate in all of Korea." (SITE NOTE: Though Lt. Freedman's battery was on Hill 170, he was referring to the main anti-aircraft batteries stationed at the highest point on base near the top of Hill 180. (Source: Ed McManus email, 13 July 2005 statement "Additionally an anti-aircraft outfit moved in and wanted the top of (Hill) 180 for gun positions and their battery areas.") This area would be turned over to the ROKAF Air Defense elements after the Korean War.)



(L) Hill 180 Gate (now closed) (R) View of Makum-ni area from the Hill 180 Gate (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

If you turned left as you exited the Hill 180 Gate, there were huddles of low-houses for those who had found employment on base. It was said that many North Korean refugees attracted to Osan AB by the promise of work clustered in this area. The dirt path followed the perimeter of the base until it came to Milwal-dong road then down the hill to the Main Gate.


Hideaway Club (1958) (Don Klopten)


By the 1960s, houses were spreading around the base of Hill 180. The Milwal-dong area -- where the Capitol Hotel is now -- was still simply a wide dirt path up the hill that veered right onto a small dirt path that continued around the base of Hill 180 until the Hill 180 gate. The houses in the area were all tightly packed but were now spreading down the slopes instead of just along the perimeter. Makum-ni continued in operation as a brothel area, but the trade was moving to the Shinjang area and it was slowly returning to a farming community. A tiny road from the Hill 180 Gate now connected to the road to Anjung and Seojong-ni Station (Rte 340).



After this period in 1962-63 when the area became Songtan-eup or Songtan Town, the American use of the term "Chicoville" (Chicol Village) disappears and the term "Songtan" is substituted to represent the area from then on. One can see that the mechanics were in the works to create the legalized "kijich'on" (camptown) system. In June 1962, by joint action, the Ministries of Justice, Interior, and Social Welfare and related agencies established 104 "special districts" of prostitution. In this way, the American "camptowns" could be classified as "special tourism zones" which were off-limits to Koreans. At the same time, the red-light districts were off-limits to the Americans. The cultures were separated in the chase for the almighty dollar. At the time, the major source of foreign currency exchange for Korea came from the American soldiers spending their paychecks downtown. During this time, the prostitutes of Korea were praised by the Park Chung-hee regime for their actions to bring in much needed foreign exchange.

Through the use of tax incentives such as tax-free beer purchases, the bars were encouraged to locate within the Special Tourism area in Shinjang. Though prostitution had been illegal in Korea since 1949, the law had never been enforced. In 1962, instead of enforcing the law, the ROK regulate it by setting up 70 red-light districts for the Koreans while creating "Special Tourist Zones" for American camptowns.

According to Oh Sun-soo, the Songwang-ni area near -- where the Songshin Elementary School and Taegwang Middle School of Shinjang-2 dong are now -- was the original area for business growth in the 1960s. Eventually this growth would spread to the small Jungang Open Market. Even today one notices that the old furniture and hardware shops are located in this area. At the same time, the growth had spread to the the MSR-1 area in Songbuk-dong and the growth of the Songbuk-dong Open Market. The Jaeil Movie Theater opened two blocks down from the intercity bus station along MSR-1. Later the larger Jungang Movie Theater opened at the top of the Milwal-dong hill -- where the Capital Hotel is now -- next to the one engine fire station. A police box was set up at the end of the intersection of the Mokchon road and the Tanhyun Road (original MSR-1) -- across from the Songbuk Farmers' Open Market. The center of activity was now in the Shinjang area.

However, in the 1960s, racial tensions grew and bars became segregated. In the 1970s the racial tension in Korea -- as reflected by the race riots in the US at the time -- separated the bars into black and white bar row areas. The "Sutkogae" name which had been applied as the entire rise area from near the farmers market to the Jisan Park area along Jwa-dong Road (Jisan Road). After the racial tensions arose, "Sutkogae" was applied to an area of Jwadong across from the railroad tracks that were strictly Black-only bars (such as Papa Joe's) and its brothels, while the "Chicoville" area became a whites only area. (Source: Verbal conversation with Oh Sun-soo, 21 Jul 2005.)


(L) Hilltop Club located near the Young Chon Hotel. (Circa 1977) (51st FW Archives); (R) Papa Joe's -- a black club that relocated back to Shinjang area from Sutkogae area. (1977) (Harry Tezlaf)


In the 1970s there was a rise in racial tensions between blacks and whites in the military -- reflecting the racial tensions experienced throughout America. There were "race riots" between blacks and whites and blacks and Koreans in the K-6 Camp Humphreys area in Anjung-ni as well as in other Army garrisons/camps throughout the peninsula. On many occasions, the town of Anjung-ni was placed off-limits. Because of the racial tensions, the "Sutgoge" area was closed down -- by the levying of base off-limits sanctions -- and the larger "black" bars relocated to the Shinjang mall area. It was not until the late 1980s that the racial tensions subsided.


Town Patrol in Shinjang area (1977) (USAF Photo)


In the 1980s, the Miracle of the Han arrived in the Songtan area. There was an upheaval as the Korean standard of living improved and massive changes were made in the local area with the reclamation project of Jisan-dong, the rerouting of Route 1 in 1985 and the rapid growth in the Seojong-ni area. The ground work was being laid for the start of the industrial parks in the area. The first step was the building of housing for the expected influx of workers and improvement of the highway infrastructure. All of these changes started to isolate the Shinjang area economy based on a tourism base, from the rest of the community that was expanding as factories moved into the area. Suddenly the once separate Seojong-ni area began to meld into the Jisan-dong area with small 3-story apartment buildings filling the area near the railroad tracks. In the boundary area, a small Korean bar row sprouted up to cater to the new population moving into the area.

The bar area of Shinjang (commonly referred to by the Americans as Songtan) remained static with small improvements in the cosmetics of the area, but it remained isolated from the rest of the community. What had once been a community isolated from the rest of the Songtan area, now started to feel the pinch as new businesses and shops started to crowd in around the Shinjang area. (NOTE: A misimpression by Americans of the times was that the bars made money off of the prostitutes when in fact, the beer sales was major profit-maker for the bars. The women were the come-on to attract the soldiers and airmen to the bars. It was not until the 1990s that the bar-owners got into a confrontation with the base authorities when they actively participated in the promotion of prostitution under the "bar-fine" system.)

By the 1990s, the Korean bar girls no longer were attracted to the "cheap trade" of the American camptowns. A Korean bar girl could earn up to five times as much at a Korean bar. The Miracle of the Han arrived in Korea and everything grew more expensive -- at the same time, the bars of Songtan was experiencing a shortage of Korean bargirls. Those girls that remained were rapidly aging and the bar owners were faced with a dilemma as the axiom of bar life is "no pretty girls -- no customers." The economic reality was that the Korean bar girls had priced themselves out of the market of the camptown bars like Songtan. A Korean bar girl could earn twice as much in a Korean bar where Korean males were well-known to be high spenders. In comparison, the GI's paycheck was dwindling in comparison to the Korean and he became the "Cheap Charlie" instead of "rich GI" of years past.


(L) Shinjang Mall bar (Circa 1990) (R) Town Patrol in Shinhang Mall area (Circa 1990)


Though the Shinjang Mall was the upscale end of the camptown bars on the peninsula, it was still not a match for the Korean trade. The Korean sex trade amounts to between an estimated 2.4 percent - 4 percent of the Gross Domestic Product (GDP). (See A-town and Prostitution for discussion and historical background on the camptown and Korean sex industry.) The bottom line for the Shinjang area bars was that their Korean bar girls were rapidly aging and the bar owners were finding it harder and harder to attract replacements. In the early 1990s, the bar owners started to use Russians who had set up operations in Pusan in 1990s.

Songtan faired better than other camptown areas because many soldiers and airmen from around the peninsula were attracted to Osan on the weekends. However, it was still caught in a trap with the lack of bar girls. It found its answer in the hiring of bar girls from Though Songtan faired better than other areas because many GIs from bases like Kunsan AB were attracted to Osan on the weekends, it was still caught in a trap. It found its answer in the hiring of bar girls from Russia and the Philippines -- the Russians for their white skin and the Filipinas for their English speaking ability. At first the bar owners attempted to treat these foreign bar girls as Korean bar girls, but there were too many cultural problems. The cost of importing these girls required upfront money placing a further financial burden on the bar owners.


Shinjang Mall (2001) (Curley Knepp)


The Russian women (Russia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Moldova) appeared in the Korean bars first and then the Songtan bars joined in importing these women. The Russians had already established their presence in Pusan with the taking over of the "Little Texas" area -- and also the appearance of the Russian "mafia" in the area as well. The Filipinas came next and were preferred as they spoke English. By Aug 1999, the Pyeongtaek area had 21 towns employing these foreign "entertainers" for a total of 343 persons.

Pyeongtaek Police reported problems with these women due to communication difficulties -- in that they could not speak Korean and were frequently caught in unlawful acts. The Korean police started getting complaints about these foreign women as they failed to pay their bills and created disturbances due their being drunk and disorderly in public. During Team Spirit, these women also "disappeared" from the bars with their new-found American boyfriends -- creating a runaway illegal alien problem involving the Immigration authorities. (Source: Pyeongtaek City History CD, "Pyeongtaek Si Sa.")


(L) Anna at Golden Gate (2002) (Unknown); (R) Filipinas in the Mall (2002) (Unknown)


It was at this point the bar owners increased the going rate for sex services to bring the camptown rates for sex (prostitution fees) more in line with what was paid in the Korean bars. This is where the Korean Bar Owners Association turned from being bar owners into brothel managers. The old use of bar fines to offset the loss of income for a girl who left early became an open "ticket" for prostitution. The scene was being set up for a disastrous confrontation. (See A-town and Prostitution for details on this sordid area.)

In 2001, the 9/11 attack by Al Quaida in New York City created problems in Korea for the Shinjang bars as "force protection" became the watchword for the Town Patrol. Permitting backpacks into bars was enough to place a bar off-limits. The tightened security placed a damper on the operations of the bar row for a while, but it soon returned to normal.

Then in 2002, the foreign bar girls became the center of a human trafficking scandal that rocked the USFK. In July 2002, a FOX affiliate released an expose on the seedier side of life in Songtan and Euijongbu. The accusation was made that the Town Patrols knowingly permitted human trafficking -- if not abetting the act. Whether justified or not, the USFK was placed under a magnifying glass and General LaPorte forced to testify before Congress as how the USFK was going to "solve" the problem. However, the USFK had no control over "fixing" the problem as the ROK had been identified as a MAJOR human trafficker by international human rights organizations. The ROK allowed the entry of the foreign "entertainers" on E-6 visas -- and continued to do so even after some countries requested that it stop doing so. (See A-town and Prostitution for details on this sordid area.)

In 2003, the 51st FW Commander launched an anti-prostitution campaign using "force protection" as the basis for setting curfews and off-limits sanctions on many businesses. Throughout Korea in the USFK camptowns from Itaewon to Uijongbu to Songtan, many small bars were forced into bankruptcy because their businesses were crippled by constant off-limits actions.

In about July 2004, the ROK Immigration moved to evict the Russian element from Korean "camptowns" because of the ever increasing international pressure over prostitution and human trafficking. In addition there was growing evidence that the Russian gangs were moving into Korea for extortion and prostitution. However, the Filipina bar girl population simply increased to offset the loss of the Russians.


Opera Club in evening viewed from Rodeo Alley (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)
In Jan 2005, the USFK launched a "zero-tolerance" policy dealing with human trafficking and prostitution. The 51st FW Commander pressed forward with his anti-prostitution campaign using an unpopular curfew for civilians under the guise of "force protection." After a furor, the curfew was lifted for civilians, but the head-on confrontation between the base and the bar owners continued. (SITE NOTE: Our opinion is that the USFK has mixed up the political issue of human trafficking with the moral issue of prostitution. However, the problem we see with the USFK actions is that the US has NOT taken action to remedy its problems within America, but then starts attempting to enforce its political agenda on human trafficking through the soldiers abroad. The USFK leadership is trapped politically into this policy.)


(L) Paradise Club near the Young Chon Hotel (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Station Club and Aloha Club in Aragon Alley (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: Korea Hotel at end of alley on right)


In Mar 2005, ten members of the town patrol were placed under investigation over allegations of shaking down the bar owners. The Osan AB authorities received a major black-eye from the negative press stemming from this incident. 1st Lt. Jason D. Davis of the 51st Security Forces Squadron was incarcerated based upon a tip-off from his former Korean girlfriend -- who happened to be related to a family whose bar was placed off-limits by the base. As of mid-2005, the base backed off on the prosecution of its anti-prostitution campaign until the Shakedown Incident blew over.

At the same time, the Shinjang Mall area Chamber of Commerce was attempting to clean up the area's image of being involved in the sex-trade and is working to promote itself as Mecca for bargain-hunters and a tourism site. In 1997, the area was named as a Special Tourism Zone with much fanfare. Though the IMF Crisis of the same year dampened the spirits of the drive temporarily, the business community was soon attempting to promote the mall area as a first-class shopping experience -- while minimizing the publicity of the bar aspects of the Shinjang Mall. However, realistically the bar culture predominates the Shinjang Mall area even today.

SITE NOTE: FOR AN EXCELLENT PHOTO TOUR OF THE BARS IN THE SHINJANG AREA, GO TO THE RETIRED ACTIVITIES OFFICE (RAO) SITE BY JACK TIERWELL. THE SLIDE PRESENTATIONS DOES THE WALKING FOR YOU. GO TO RAO: TOUR THE BARS.


ROADS SURROUNDING K-55

For our history, it is important to understand the layout of the roads constructed by the Americans as they would impact on the growth patterns of Songtan in the coming years. The locations of MSR-1 (Main Supply Route 1) and the MSR-1 Bypass later laid out the grid that would later be used in turn to lay out the streets in the 1980s.

From a historical standpoint, the Japanese adopted a Grid-pattern for their cities and towns in the 1880s. They used this pattern during the colonial period on any of the new construction throughout the country. However, there was NO pattern of this type of grid being used in the Songtan-Seojong area in the 1950s. The original MSR-1 was Japanese built and followed the Kyongbu Railway (Feisu Railway) all the way to Pusan. The minor stations along the Kyongbu route (Feisu) was the Osan-ni Station (Usan) and the Seojong-ni Station (Sojang) before Pyeongtaek Station. After WWII, the Occupation forces renamed it MSR-1 as it stretched from Kaesong to Youngdong-po to Taejon and then down Pusan. Most of the businesses sprang up along this wide dirt highway.

It is also important to realize that the area around the Jisan Hill area was swamp and rice fields in the "bowl" that was created by a rise that started at the base of the hills in the Songbuk-dong area and circled around following the ridgeline until it rejoined at the base of the Jisan Hill area. This swampy area dictated the path of the original MSR-1 and later the MSR-1 Bypass Road built in 1952 by the Army Engineers. It was only in the 1980s that this area was filled in and the new Route 1 bypass built that ran over the rise and along the base of the Buraksan Mountain until in rejoined the original MSR-1 route in Jungang-dong.

MSR-1 What became known as Main Supply Route 1 (MSR1) -- now known as "Route 1" or "National Road 1" -- simply followed the general route of the Kyongbu train line down to Taejon and then onto Pusan. The route later called MSR1 (Main Supply Route 1) was actually laid out by the Japanese. Try to remember that in Korea at the time, the impoverished farmers made for the perfect coolie class -- disenfranchised from the land as tenant farmers and surviving as best they could. This labor pool made for large scale construction projects without heavy equipment possible.

The MSR1 ran from Yongdong-po down through Suwon to Osan-ni and passed in front of the Pyeongtaek Station on the way to Taejon. It is now called "National Road 1." It was the pattern for the US Occupation forces after WWII to simply use the existing infrastructure -- and when the Korean War occurred, many people of the time using maps from the Occupation era were under the misconception that the infrastructure was built by the American Occupation forces. This unpaved road was a dust bowl in summer and a muddy swamp in winter. Military personnel from the period relate that the convoys over this road to Osan AB in the 1960s was an arduous endeavor. With bandanas wrapped around their faces because of the dust, they sweated in the heat as they wound their way up the road. The pictures below are on the trip between Osan-Kunsan. The MSR1 connected to Taejon. At Taejon, the road split to follow the general route of the train from Taejon to Iksan (Iri). Then from Iksan (Iri), it connected to Kunsan.

In 1952, the 8th Army Combat Engineers (unit unknown) constructed the MSR-1 Bypass Road. This road bypassed the congested MSR-1 route that went down onto the Shinjang Mall Road. The Engineering Aviation Battalions did NOT construct the MSR-1, but did wet down the roads with water trucks to keep the dust down when convoys used the roads. (SEE MSR-1 Bypass Road.)

During the Korean War, there was only the MSR-1 running from Osan-ni. The first cutoff on MSR-1 to the construction at Osan AB (K-55) was a dirt road to the back gate area (Doolittle Gate area). This was used for the initial setup of construction, but after the Main Gate was opened in 1953, the usage of this road tapered off. By the 1960s, this road had fallen into disuse and only served as a road for the Shinjang-ni Village area north of the base towards Seotan-myeon.


MSR-1 Looking Towards Osan-ni (1954) (Dan Klopten) (NOTE: Sign on the left marks the Jinwi-myeon boundary. Notice the farmer working in his rice field to the right.)



MSR-1 Looking toward Osan-ni (1959) (Ed Stirling) (NOTE: This is from near where the road enters the downtown area of Songtan. It looks down the road to Jinwi-myeon at the base of the hill.)


Looking down the same road in 1965 (1965) (Harry Tezlaf)

The MSR-1 continued through Jinwi-myeon to the rise (where the Songtan Fire Station is presently located) and then it turned right to bypass the swampy area of what is now Jisan-dong. (SITE NOTE: This road is now known as the Tanhyun Road and then becomes the Jwa-dong Road (Jisan Road) at the top of the ridgeline.) By the 1960s, there was a gas station that was on the left. (NOTE: This is the same location as the gas station today, but we are not certain if it is the same owner.)

Looking at Tanhyun Road (MSR-1) today, it is obvious that the main business center of the Songtan first developed at the intersection of Shinjang Mall Road and MSR-1. along this road starting in the mid-1950s with buildings along both sides of the road.

Progressing further the Police Box was first established in the 1960s on this route at the "Y"-intersection from the Shinjang Mall Road on the right. (NOTE: The Songtan Police Box is located to the right of the intersection today.)


(L) Police Box at Intersection to Main Gate on MSR-1 (1976) (Harry Tezlaf) (R) Police Box at Intersection on MSR-1 (1976) (Harry Tezlaf) (NOTE: This is now the Mokchon Pedestrian Underpass area.)



Songtan Police Box in Songbuk-dong. Located near the Police box location in 1960s-1970s. (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Later in the 1970s a railway crossing was established across the tracks to connect to the Shinjang Mall Road. (NOTE: In 1976, the Shinjang Road Overpass was built and the crossing was closed. A block down, the Mokchon underpass was constructed in the 1980s. The Mokchon Road Pedestrian Underpass constructed in 2000 at the end of Shinjang Mall is sited at this former crossing.)

Up the street from the "Y" intersection leading to Shinjang Mall Road, the Intercity Bus Terminal was situated. The Kyungmin Bank is now on the location. The bus depot was behind where the bank sits now.
Intercity and Intracity Buses The intracity bus terminal (to connect Songtan to the outlying hamlets) was up on Milwal Road next to the Seojong Theater (currently the Capital Hotel location). (NOTE: To this day, the bus from Pyeongtaek to "K-55" (not "Osan AB") follows the original MSR-1 route straight past Seojong-ni Station and Market Road -- along the railroad tracks -- and finally to K-55. Even today, the intracity bus route makes their turn at the intersection of Milwal Road. Going to Pyeongtaek, the bus follows Route 1.)

The intercity bus station remained down by the Jaeil Theater (currently the Kyungmin Bank location). Up until the 1970s, it was nothing more than a bus stop with a shack where buses would stop to load passengers. Later it would move to its current location to the intersection of Terminal Ridge Road and Songbuk Market Road (MSR-1 Bypass in the late 1970s after the Shinjang Overpass and Terminal Ridge Road was completed.

In the early days of MSR-1, all the buses carried a spare tire on the rear as the road were in notoriously poor condition. It was not unknown for buses to run off the road during the rainy seasony. Though the villages were "taxed" with a levy to maintain the roads passing through their areas, it was not rigidly enforced.


Intercity "Kimchi" Bus Terminal (1961) (Jim Denman)


Across the street from the Kyungmin Bank is the Woori Bank. Up the block at the florist, turn right and there is an empty area across from the Jungang Sauna. This is where the Jaeil Movie Theater was located.


Jaeil Theater (1961) (Jim Denman)



Jaeil Theater (1976) (Harry Tezlaf)



(L) Old Jaeil Theater location (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (Notice the house in the background of old photo and the house in this photo.) (R) Old Jaeil Theater location (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



(L) Jungang Sauna (Est: 1966) (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Jungang Sauna: Kim Jongsu; Yu Hwaechi; Noh Yongguk (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


These businesses continued to the top of the ridgeline where the road to the Main Gate turned right. Businesses on the slope were constructed with the shops at street-level, but the living quarters were beneath the shops along the slope. Houses were crowded together on the slopes down to the railroad tracks.

After the top of the ridgeline, various small businesses and bars sprouted up. In the 1970s during the period of racial tensions in America, this area developed into the Jwa-dong area called "Sutkogae" where black only bars were constructed. Older residents of the area mention that there were a lot of brothels in this area. This area extended west to the base of the ridgeline and then houses tapered off until one reached Seojong-ni. Up until the 1980s, this area was mostly rice fields until the low-rise apartments were constructed in the area.

The MSR-1 continued until Seojong-ni and then veered onto the Seojong Market Road (MSR-1). It continued straight rejoined by the Shinseon Road (MSR-1 Bypass) until it turned into Homyeon School Road and then continued on until Pyeongtaek Train Station. (NOTE: Later when Route 1 was constructed, the original MSR-1 route would rejoin Route 1 in the Jungang-dong area and then continue to Pyeongtaek.)

After Pyeongtaek, the MSR-1 wound its way to Pusan. The MSR-1 along its entire route would best be described as a dust bowl in summer and a mud hole in the rainy season. It was NOT an ideal road to travel. (NOTE: It was not until the mid-1970s when a national program centered on the MSR-1 as the cornerstone of the national transportation system. After then, it was a paved highway from Yongdong-po to Pusan. The changes were obvious. The MSR-1 in the local Songtan area now sported painted center lines and crosswalks on the MSR-1 -- and traffic lights were installed. As an off-shoot of the MSR-1 construction, the local area roads also were paved at the same time.)

Ed Mullin was with the 354th Transportation Squadron at Kunsan in 1969 and periodically traveled on the MSR-1 to Osan AB. He commented on the pictures below:

"The pictures of the muddy roads was typical in 69. Not many paved roads. And they turned into a sea of mud when it rained. This was on a trip from Kun to Osan with a deuce and a half." Later he wrote, "I once had to Bob Tail an M-52 from Osan to Kunsan. An M-52 is a military series tractor for hauling trailers. It has a fifth wheel, and is much like its civilian counter part, except for a lack of suspension and good seats. Bob Tailing is uncomfortable on paved roads. So by the time we got to Kun both rear view mirrors had vibrated out and my lower back was completely swolen. There was no happy medium, in the dry periods driving a convoy from Osan to Kun, you could see only 25 yds ahead, and breathing in the dust made you feel like you smoked 3 packs of Camels. We would take canteens of water and wet handkerchiefs and tie over our nose and mouth to keep the dust out. I mean when you got back to base your lungs were killing you. And on the other hand when it rained we would be getting stuck every couple of miles."



Muddy roads Kunsan-Osan trip (1969) (Courtesy Ed Mullin)



As the MSR-1 formed the basis for the national road system it was a sad commentary -- and explains why most of the freight was transported by train (with USAF airmen acting as train guards with M2 carbines) well into the late 1970s. Starting with the Osan-Chonan link, the road was paved in 1970 and the entire MSR-1 road system was paved from Yongdong-po to Pusan in the mid-1970s. (NOTE: The buses in the 1970s were much different than today. They carried a "bus lady" who would serve you tea on the trip and make announcements. It was also not unusual to have people from the country towns carrying live chickens on the bus to Seoul as well.)

For the Songtan area, the major change was the cutting of a new bypass for Route 1 at the base of the Buraksan Mountain in 1985 as the area prepared to lay the foundations for the movement of national/regional/local industrial parks into the area in 1990. In conjunction with this construction was the reclamation of the rice fields and swamps in the low-lying area just over the rise that would become part of Jisan-dong. These would become the apartments that lined both sides of the Route 1. (SEE Route 1)

Upon completion of the Route 1, vehicular traffic on the original MSR-1 was reduced to primarily local traffic only.

MSR-1 BYPASS ROAD In late 1952, the MSR-1 Bypass was built by the 8th Army Combat Engineers in order to bypass the congestion created by the construction of Osan AB (K-55). As one entered the Songtan area, there was a "Y" intersection -- that is still there today -- that veered left. Ed McManus, Col, USA (Ret) who left K-55 in about May 53 wrote in Aug 2005:

Believe the by-pass MSR was constructed by 8th Army Engineers to avoid Osan. I know that 8th Army Engineers maintained the road. Story was told about the Koreans doing hard rock mining, gold it was said, and hauling their ore to the MSR and piling it along side for truck pick-up and along came the 8th Army engineers who saw these nice piles of gravel that filled the bill nicely to fill potholes which they proceeded to do causing much consternation with the Korean miners.

The EAB's did no work on the MSR. We used to wet the MSR down for dust control when our dump- truck convoys were hauling the river-run gravel from the pit about 22 miles north of K-55, but that was about it. I left in May/June of 53 but not before carving gun pads for AA on hill 180 with my bulldozers (In fact, I lost a D8 that went over when making a side hill cut on the steep slope) The pad locations were designated for me by representatives of the AAA Brigade that was moving elements to K-55.
We are theorizing that the MSR-1 Bypass Route was selected because (1) it was flat and bypassed the growing population center of the city at the time; (2) Osan AB (K-55) EAB traffic on the original MSR-1 added to the congestion; (3) the route did not entail the relocation of houses as this area was relatively empty of farm houses that were normally built at the base of the hills.


Intersection of MSR-1 and Road leading to Main Gate (1954) (Robert Furrer)

NOTE: This is the approximate area of the Express Bus Terminal to the left and continue on to Seojong-ni train station to the right. The line of hills in the distance is where the current road Route 1 to Pyongtaek runs. At the base of the hills are the apartment complexes on both sides of the roads. The rice paddies were filled in to create usable land for expansion into Jisan-dong. Hill to the right became the Jisan-dong park area.

In the modern Songtan area, the road from Osan-ni turns right diagonally at the base of the incline (past the fire station) and heads through Songbok-dong towards the Shinjang-dong area. In 1950, the area on the other side of the hill was low-lying rice-paddies which would not be filled in until the 1990s. The road continued straight to the intersection where the road to the train overpass leading to the base is the originally intersection. To the left of the road was all rice paddies that stretched to the hill that is now Jisan-dong Park. The road continued straight following the railroad tracks until it passed the Seojong Station to the right. The MSR1 road basically follows the bus route for the bus marked "K-55" that goes in a straight line to the Pyeongtaek Train Station.


The MSR-1 road from Osan-ni proceeded into the downtown area of Songtan until it came to a "Y" intersection. We believe in 1952, there were only the two major roads (MSR-1 and MSR-1 Bypass Road), but there was a small dirt road that followed the Jisan Stream (cheon) to this point following the route of the Jisan Cheon (Stream). In the 1950s this small dirt road followed the Jisan stream bed and led to Are Konji-ni (Lower Konji Village) and after 1955, to the Chongbuk Elementary School. (SEE Jisan Stream Road)


(L) Truck passing the arch at the Y-intersection. (1974) (Ken Shallenbarger); (R) Y-Intersection in "downtown" Songbuk-dong area. MSR-1 Bypass Road to left and old MSR-1 to right. To the left is known as Songbuk Market Road and to the right is Tanhyun Road that led up the ridgeline. The sign is written in Chinese characters and there is a Lions Club shield in the center. "Songtan" is written in hangul (Korean) on the lower right leg of the arch. (1984) (Mike Dunnigan)


At the Y-intersection, if one continued straight, this was the original MSR-1 up the ridgeline. If one took the left cut-off, this was the MSR-1 Bypass Road. The MSR-1 Bypass Road (Songbuk Market Road) went past the Songbuk Farmers' Market and continued on to where the Express Bus Terminal now is. (NOTE: In the 1950s the intercity bus stop was on the original MSR-1 route near the where the Uri Bank is now. This MSR-1 Bypass Road is also referred to as "National Road 1" on some maps. This road is now known as the Songbuk Market Road until it reaches the Express Bus Terminal. Then it is referred to as the Bukbu-Jungang Road.)

The MSR-1 Bypass ran past the base of the Jisan Park Hill and continued straight until the Seojeong-ni Train Station where it turned right to rejoin the original MSR-1 route. At that time there were few houses after the Jisan Hill and only rice fields on both sides of the road.

The Songbuk Market Road area to the west in the 1950s was all rice fields and swamp. There was a path that ran north-south that connected the Are Konji-ni (Lower Konji Village) area with the Jisan Hill farm houses. (SEE Robert Furrer's 1954 photo above for an illustration of this path.)


Map of Jisan Hill and Jangmi Apart (2005)
(Map at Songbuk-dong House Office) (NOTE: The green line in the middle is the Kyongbu Train line. The pink area shows the developed area in the 1970s. Below the Kyongbu line is the Shinjang area - stretching from Mokchon Village on the north to the Milwal-Road area on the south. The area above the Kyongbu line stretches along MSR-1 Bypass road from the "Y" intersection area of MSR-1 and MSR-1 Bypass on the north to the end of Jisan Hill to the south. Above the MSR-1 Bypass Road, the development followed a path that stretched from the Jisan Stream Road (path) to the Bus Terminal Ridge Road junction.)


In the 1960s, the land on both sides of this path was gradually filled in and new construction took place spreading from the area of MSR-1 Bypass Road veered right. The growth started in this area as Songbuk-dong pushed east. Soon there were buildings from the Jisan Cheon (Stream) Bottom Road to the Jangmi Apartment Road (continuation of Terminal Ridge Road). (NOTE: Using present day landmarks, the demarcation line for the 1960s expansion would be to the road east of where the Songbuk House Office is now. The buildings covered the area to the Songbuk Market Road to the east and Jangmi Apartment Road to the south and the Jisan Cheon (Stream) Bottom Road to the north. The areas above this area and towards Seojong-ni remained rice fields.)

The Terminal Ridge Road was cut to in order to connect the Bypass MSR-1 (Songbuk Market Road-Bukbu Jungang Road) to the original MSR-1 (Tanhyun Road-Jwa-dong Road). At the top of the ridgeline it then went down the ridge to the Shinjang Road to the Main Gate.

ROUTE 1 (SONGTAN BYPASS) In the 1970s, Korea started a massive project to improve its mass transit systems. Subway work and highway construction started everywhere. By the mid-1970s, the Pusan-Seoul highway was complete and branches were being constructed off of the main highways to connect the nation.

By the 1980s, the highway system was complete and travel was relatively easy to move around, but there still was not an abundance of cars clogging the highways. Unlike Seoul, the traffic in Songtan still remained minimal as the explosion of automobiles in the Korean society still had not occurred in the country side. But the population in the Songtan area continued to grow. On 1 July 1981, Songtan-eup (town) became Songtan-si (city).

By 1985, Korea was starting to be a major exporter of cars and domestic production was increasing rapidly. The cars were affordable and soon the traffic jams seen in the cities were being experienced in the countryside. More and more cars were starting to appear on the Songtan streets and soon parking became a problem in the once open streets. In the Songtan area, the original MSR-1 and MSR-1 Bypass were becoming bottlenecks.

Also in the mid-1980s, the infrastructure in the area was being improved in anticipation for the building of the national/regional/local industrial parks that would be moving into the area. However, the Miracle of the Han was about to move into the area and this required some radical changes for the community.

The first step was to ensure the area had the infrastructure to support this development of industrial parks in the form of rail, roads and ship traffic. Pyeongtaek Harbor started work on the expansion of its piers, the rail systems were improved; and the roads were upgraded and expanded. Route 40 to Pyeongtaek and Route 50 to Suwon were upgraded. The West Coast Highway (Seohan Highway - Route 15) was started down in Sochon 22km from Kunsan and would expand in both directions -- north to Seoul and south to Mokpo. Construction of the major routes in the area were undertaken.

For the Songtan area, the removal of the bottleneck along the MSR-1 and MSR-1 Bypass Roads was required. (SEE MSR-1 and MSR-1 Bypass Road.) A new bypass route was laid out over the rise along the base of the Buraksan Mountain and stretched to the end of the Jungang-dong where it rejoined the original MSR-1 which then ran straight to Pyeongtaek. The Route 1 was now a four lane highway from Osan City that expanded to an eight-lane highway after it entered Songtan. In addition, the side roads into the countryside where the industrial growth would take place were improved to connect the industrial areas to Route 1. (NOTE: The back roads of Route 304 in Jinwi-myeon and Route 340 through Seojong-ni would have to wait another twenty years before any improvements were seen.)

In conjunction with this expansion of the road systems, there was a move to ensure the adequacy of housing for the increase in worker populations. In the Songtan area, the change involved the reclamation of the rice fields and swamp land in low areas near the MSR-1 Bypass Road and the building of apartment complexes on the reclaimed areas. The first were the Life Apartments and Jangmi Apartments, but soon others began to go up as the land was reclaimed. On the reclaimed ground, the apartment height was restricted to only ten stories.

After these apartment complexes were completed in 1990, the work started on the Ichung-dong area as the new administrative center and "middle ground" between the Songtan and Seojong-ni areas. The Songtan Branch Office of the Pyeongtaek City Hall was constructed in the Ichung-dong area. High-rise apartments continued to be erected in the Seojeong-ni and Jungang-dong areas and turned the face of the Songtan area into a city -- instead of a country town.

In 1990, the construction of the local Songtan Industrial Complex in Jungang-dong at the southern boundary of Songtan was started. Drawn by attractive tax incentive packages many companies relocated to the complex in 1991-1992. The complex was officially completed in 2000.

On 10 May 1995, Songtan City was incorporated into the urban agricultural city of Pyeongtaek City and the Songtan started to lose its identity as a separate entity.

By 2000, both sides of the Route 1 were lined with apartment complexes and new construction for the large scale apartment complex in the Jungang area was started with a completion date in 2006.

ON-BASE ROADS The on-base roads that were laid out in 1952-54 have not changed dramatically. Though new buildings have been added and old ones destroyed, the same basic routes laid out at that time have been followed. The major construction period in the mid-1970s by the 554th CESHR Det 1 "Red Horse" added a few roads but the main routes remained the same.


Osan AB Road Map (1999) (AAFES)


SITE NOTE: The Doolittle Gate is where the original 839th EAB entered the area. The road to the left of the Doolittle Gate would be part of the original Perimeter Road where many small hamlets to the North of the base were cleared.

The road to the right comes to an intersection. If one turns left, this is the Bravo Gate area. To the left is Bomb Dump Hill and to the right is the "dimple area" of Namsan Village offbase. The rail spurs split at the base of Hill 170 with one going straight ahead until it joined it came to the Supply Warehouse (still standing). The second spur followed the base of the hill until the POL tanks on Hill 170.

The road that goes straight ahead leads up to Hill 170 where the Signal Company set up their antenna farm. Continuing to the right the road swings around the base of Hill 170 and the POL tanks up on the sides of the hill.

The road then swings south and straightens out. The 841st set up their billeting to the right and left of the road just after it swung south in the area of the Challenger Club today. (Ed McManus: "The road then took a right hook down between Hill 170 and Hill 180 to the Airfield Area." "The 841st cantonment area was to the right and left of the road with some elements located on the southeast side of 170." In 1952, there still was a Korean village on the Hill 170 (on-base).)

The road continues till the intersection of Broadway and Headquarters Road. It was along this stretch that the 839th EAB was located. (Ed McManus: "The billeting area was to the left toward Hill 180 and the catonment area to the right toward the flightline.") During the Korean War, the headquarters area developed in the area where the current BX is located, but these quonset huts burned down in a large fire in early 1970s. The enlisted lived on the lower levels of Hill 180 or in compounds next to their duty sections. The BX, Chapel and Library were located on the next tier up. Above this area were the officer billets (a mixture of Jamesway buildings and quonsets huts). The Officer's club was on the hill but each flying squadron had their own squadron bars near their squadron areas.

The enlisted barracks were built at the base of the hill near the work areas. The enlisted barracks were initially plywood prefab Jamesway buildings. The roofs were corrugated iron and were sandbagged down to keep the sheets from blowing off. Sides were normally covered in layered wood slates, but the ones at Osan appear to be completely covered in corrugated iron sheets.


Jamesway with corrugated iron siding (1961) (Jim Denman)


Broadway and Headquarters Road (1958): To the left is the Supply warehouse -- Osan's first permanent building. The two hangars that were used by the fighter units and later by the 310th Missile Squadron is behind the Supply buildings. Next to the hangars is the Base Ops ramp with parked C-47s. The "D" Diamond is still distinct in this photo, but would later become simply a hardstand off the picture with the AMC ramp towards the taxiway.

The Headquarters buildings are in the foreground. These structures burned down in a massive fire in 1970s. This is now the Library area. The road that runs behind these quonsets is Headquarters Road. (NOTE: The Korean village of Chokbong used to sit in this area in 1952.) Broadway runs inThe old 839th EAB area is to the right of Headquarters Road.




Alabama and Texas Roads (1958): The POL tanks and the antennas atop Hill 170 remain from the Korean War. Just below the POL tanks is the road from the Back Gate area (Doolittle Gate). Atop Hill 170 is the "antenna farm" for the communication units. At the juncture of the road running down from the "antenna farm" and the road at the base of the hills is the intersection that splits to the right and becomes Broadway Street and continues down to intersect with Headquarters Road.

Directly below the antennas are a row of quonset huts. Just below these huts is a road that runs and then curves down. This is the road that now has the Challenger Club and the old McPherson Recreation Center where it intersects with is Alabama Road. Alabama ran east and turned right when it reached the quarry area. Portions of Alabama Road can be seen to the left and right of the picture.

The next street down is Texas Road which continues to the left and right. Texas headed east and ran into the quarry area. The next road in front of the Jamesway buildings on the left and extending up past the swimming pool is the Headquarters Road. The swimming pool marks the boundary of the BOQ area.

The next road down intersects with the road coming from the right. The left road is one that ran behind the Headquarters about a block down the road. The road on the right the is curving down to intersect with the road behind the HQ buildings about a block down the road. The road coming down from the right is the road that runs below the Officers Club and then heads up to the Hardened Communications Center on Hill 180.


Looking towards Hill 170 (


The new barracks were poured concrete slabs on the ends with prefab walls and floors. These structures were susceptible to fire because of the prefab construction materials. One end was the entrance and the other end was a fire exit. Latrines were at the end.


New concrete structures with prefab sections and walls (1961) (Jim Denman) (Note: The comments of Hill 180 are an urban legend. See "1951" above for story.)


The northern tip of Hill 180 was next to Texas Road. The quarry operations started at this point. Notice how this Texas Road comes straight down and then crosses Broadway and heads diagonally to the flightline. This is the road used for the fill operations of the runway that ran next to the 839th EAB heavy equipment parking area. (Ed McManus: "The quarry was located on the northern tip of 180. After the overburden was removed by pan, the quarry/Rock crusher was started about 200 yards south of the main road. After the nose of 180 was uncovered, we started the quarry first one bench, and then two. Before I left we were ready to start a third bench." (NOTE: A "bench" is a tier to quarry at multiple levels simultaneously.))

The quarry slowly dug into the Hill 180 carving out the area of the Osan American Highschool and then working into the area of the present day Commissary. The tip of the Hill 180 was slowly cut back until it is in line with the road that comes over the Mustang Village Hill.

(NOTE: After the Korean War this quarry area was only good as a sump area where the "Turtle Pond" (after the Yi Taehyun "turtle) stele) was situated. In the mid-1970s Det 1 554th CESHR (Red Horse) undertook to fill the area and raised the level fifteen feet with fill to provide the level land that the Osan American High School and Commissary are now built upon. At the same time, the Mustang Village was constructed under Korean contract for dependent families.


Turtle Monument and Turtle Pond near CE Compound (1965) (Harry Tezlaf) (SEE "2000" for details of stele.)


The first road to the Main Gate from this area took a four-wheel drive to navigate it in 1952. In 1953, the quarry operations had cut the road to a more navigable route and the Main Gate became the primary gate for Osan AB (K-55). The area to the left of the Main Gate as one entered the base had been returned to the ROKAF after the Korean War when they assumed the air defense (anti-aircraft duty) for the base. The area to the right became the USAF family housing area. The road continued down the hill and veered right. The old housing Jamesway Housing (plywood and corrugated iron) billets on Hill 180 were abandoned in the 1960s for the newer two-story cinderblock barracks structures built along Alabama Road. In the 300-area, two 1960s buildings remain the McPherson Recreation Center (1963) and EOD (1962).

The base of the Hill 180 area was the primary headquarters, supply and support areas. (SUPPOSITION) The upper level of Hill 180 in the ares where the present Officer's Club is located was the location of the officer billets.
The road then continued down Broadway and made a curving loop turn to the north along the base perimeter. (Ed McManus: "The road proceeded north and east running around Hill 180, parallel to the runway/taxiway with the warehouse and parking diamonds in the area between to the 840th Bn area that was scheduled to be the second wing housing area and support activities Motor Pool etc.") At the extreme end of this road is a ROKAF soccer field. This is where the anti-aircraft unit for Hill 180 was stationed and the Hill 180 Gate was opened.

When the construction for the second wing started in this area, the 840th EAB was sent to Seoul. This second wing never appeared as the Armistice was signed and the area eventually became the golf course area. (NOTE: The roads in this area have been reworked extensively after the 1970s for expansions, dormitory constructions and improvements to make the Golf Course into an 18-hole course. Besides the perimeter road and ROKAF areas, there is very little left of the original roads graded by the EAB remaining in this area.)

The first road was from MSR-1 to the back gate area (Doolittle Gate). The bomb dump had the munitions stored in the earthen revetments dug into both sides of the hill. (NOTE: This area is now known as the Beta site area for the on-base storage area. Half of the hill next to Shinjang-1 dong has been returned to the ROK.) This road was only used temporarily until the road to the Main Gate over Hill 180 was completed. As the 839th EAB proceeded to construct a massive concrete warehouse and the long supply building -- along with proceeding with the runway construction, other crews were busy constructing a road from MSR-1 to the Hill 180 side. After this road was completed, the back gate road fell into disuse.

The bombs were hauled to the Bomb Dump Hill area by trains that ran from the Kyongbu line through the Jae Yok-dong area (Shinjang-dong) into the freight gate located at the tip of the bomb dump hill to the right of the picture. (The freight cars with munitions are seen in front of the revetments.) This rail spur then went around the base of Hill 170 were it split. Then one line went to the POL tanks at the base of Hill 170 and the supply warehouse at the base of Hill 180 now across from the BX. Heavy equipment for the 839th EAB was also brought into the base by this rail line. (SEE Freight Gate Road.)


First Permanent Building on K-55 (1952) (Robert Evilsizor) (NOTE: The village of Chokpong is seen in the foreground before it was relocated. The 839th EAB area is to the right. The road leading over Hill 180 (Headquarters Road) is at the base of the village to the right. Heading up the hill the vegetable fields are to the right and EAB area to the left. The intersection at the warehouse (Broadway) is now the intersection of the BX and Movie Theater with Headquarters Road. Incidentally, Headquarters Road was named for the headquarters buildings that were situated where the BX is now located that burned down in a massive fire in the early 1970s.)



839th EAB Seal at Bldg 817 (Jul 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


A large number of rice paddies were situated where the runway now lies. During construction, the water-table being so close to the surface created many problems. A grader actually sank into the mud during construction -- though it only sank up to its wheels according to photos in 1952. A levee on the north side next to the Chinwi River and drainage culverts had to be dug to drain the water.

Ed McManus, Col, USA (Ret) wrote to Don Tomajan (June 17, 2001):

"...Field was to be capable of handling F-86s and C-54 Cargo Aircraft.We had just about everything drop in. Our first customer was an F9J from MAG 33 at Pyongtaek that made an emergency wheels up landing in the Jun/Jul timeframe when the RW was under construction. The conrete lanes were 25 feet wide, 6 for the RW which was 150 feet wide. The paver had to be modified to handle 25 foot lanes from its normal 20 ft capability. The haul for river run was 22 miles round trip from 839 borrow area.

Construction sequence for the RW fill was first a sand pad hauled from the river just north of base by D-8 and Pan and until the turnadozers arrived this was followed by fill, earth either trucked from borrow pits Hill l70 and l80 or brought in by dozer and pan. When the turnadozers arrived this was their primary function. Next came the River run and crushed rock from the quarry at Anyang (by rail) or from my quarry on hill 180. The design met CBR requirements and this was topped with an 8 inch unreinf(orced) concrete pavement w/const and expansion joints.

The big problems were the water table, flooding from river north of RW (large drainage ditches, protective dike/bern, pumps,dragline) spare parts, operator training (heavy on OJT and hard on equipment maintenance) supply of construction materials, lightsets/generators for night operations and weather conditions-monsoon rains, heat,cold. My big problems at the quarry were the loss of drill steel due to fissures in the granite wall, explosive availability, replacement engine and jaws for the 150 ton primary unit. We wore that baby out with continuous two 10 hour shifts per day.

My dynamite came from Japan, when it came. I got a boxcar of frozen dynamite that we had to defrost - a dangerous operation. My demo people were not authorized demolition pay and we blasted every day were as the AF EOD/Bomb people on base got it. One of the minor irritants that proved SCARWAF were neither fish nor fowl as far as the AF was concerned.

When we ran out of dynamite we resorted to the use of black powder and C-4 demolition blocks scronged from the Army. The bore holes we drilled were round and the C-4 blocks were square so it was necessary to shave the corners off the length of each block so we could slide them in the hole. The chemicals in the C-4 turned the skin of my demo people yellow -- I mean bright yellow all over -- looked like they had a very bad case of jaundice. The black powder and primer cord didn't work too well, after every blast the area might be covered with unexploded black powder pellets. But we had to keep up production otherwise it meant a 22 mile haul or rock by rail from Anyang. ..." (Site Note: The "sand pit mentioned was near the villages of Yari and Shin-Yari which were relocated during the construction of the perimeter road.)
Ed McManus, Col, USA (Ret) wrote to Don Tomajan (July 13, 2005):

At the time of construction, the main road came off Rt 1, east across the RR Line and thru the 839th Area which straddled the road. Hqrs etc 839th on the left. cantonment area on right. (SITE NOTE: Col McManus description fits the use of the Back Gate Road at the time. The road over Hill 180 and the main gate had NOT been completed. From MSR-1 (Rte 1) one would cross the Kyongbu rail lines and enter the base area near the Doolittle Gate side of Bomb Dump Hill -- there was no gate at this time. The "Main Gate" was at the 839th EAB area as there was still Koreans living on the hillsides. The 839th billets were to the left (SEE PHOTO) and the cantonment area with all the heavy equipment was to the right.)


839th EAB Area (1952) (Robert Evilsizor)


The road then took a right hook down between Hill 170 and Hill 180 to the Airfield Area. The 841st cantonment area was to the right and left of the road with some elements located on the southeast side of 170.

There was a small village located adjacent to our camp on the 170 side of the road, north of us. We had two companies on the left side of the road, B&C with hill 180 to their back. (SITE NOTE: The small village noted by Col McManus are the houses on Hill 170 (on-base side) that Robert Evilsizor took home movies of when they were disassembling the thatch roofs of the houses and transporting them off-base to the south via oxen along the taxiway.)

The road proceeded north and east running around Hill 180, parallel to the runway/taxiway with the warehouse and parking diamonds in the area between to the 840th Bn area that was scheduled to be the second wing housing area and support activities Motor Pool etc. (This is why the 840th was the first Bn scheduled to move from Osan because their area was needed for construction.) (SITE NOTE: The village of Chokpong situated just above the long Supply Warehouse was also relocated. The 840th EAB was transferred to construction projects in rebuilding the infrastructure of the Seoul area. The second wing never appeared as the Korean War Armistice was signed in July 1953.)


Early Preparation of Runway Construction (1952) (Robert Evilsizor)


There was a levee on the north side of the base to protect the area from the flooding river. In addition we built a main drainage ditch that isolated the airfield proper.


K-55 Runway (1952) (Don Tomajan)

(NOTE: To the lower left corner is the Doolittle Gate area with the road running to the perimeter. The villages to the lower left is the Shinjang-ni village area. Over the Bomb Dump Hill in the "dimple area" of Hill 170 is the Namsan Village.

The path of the Hwangkoji River has been redirected. It used to twist like a coiled snake, but now its path is much straighter after flood control projects. The Jinwi River continues to run to the north of the base almost perpendicular to the runway and but now the Jinwi River path is farther away from the base perimeter. The Jinwi River connects to the Hwangkoji River up near the upper right hand corner of the picture and then runs to the left top of the picture. At the south end of the runway, there is a bridge over the river that connects to Seotan-myeon. The entire area to the west of the base (top left) has been turned into rice fields and is uniformly flat. There is only one village located in the area about half-way down the runway. A road now runs parallel with the perimeter on the south end to the Jinwi River. At the south end of the runway, the entry to the base is blocked by ROK riot police.)



Osan AB Runway Map (Circa 1952) (NOTE: This is from the south end of the runway towards Seotan-myeon. The Diamond A-D well shown. Note that the Jinwi River is actually touching the base perimeter and would later be redirected.)



Osan AB Runway Map (2000) (NOTE: The ill-fated F-84s Fighter Interceptors are from Suwon. Sent to escort the B-29s over the north, they proved so unreliable that the SAC commanders asked they NOT be used. In fact, the only MiG kill for an F-84 came when it collided with a MiG because it had a radar lock problem.)



Osan AB Runway Map (2000) (NOTE: Diamond A-D and AMC ramp areas.)


The first railroad spur was built from the main line on the west side of 170 that led to the warehouse area which was used to bring in construction materials primarily the cement for the airfield paving. This was on the north side of the Drainage ditch to the south side of the taxiway . My company put in a raised spur on the south side of the drainage ditch between the ditch and hill 170, into an area that was designated a class IV yard. I don't know wether or not this splitting of the spur into separate lines is causing the question about the spurs. (SITE NOTE: We had raised the question in Jul 2005 of the possibility of two spurs OUTSIDE the base because of comments in an article. Col. McManus response ended the discussion as it was apparent they were referring to two ON-BASE spurs.)

We constructed a fence between the Class IV yard and the village area referred to above as located to the north side of the 841st backing on hill 170. (SITE NOTE: This is the perimeter fence line that exists today in the Namsan Village area.)

It should be noted here that we altered the topography of both 170 and 180 since these areas were the source of the fill for construction of everything above rice paddy level. the north point of Hill 170 was the location of the signal antenna farm, POL Storage tanks and the Base Water plant and storage tanks.

The Bomb dump at that time was located on the west side of the railroad spur and hill 170 before the spur split into the north and south branches around the tip of 170. Where the hell is Doolittle Gate located? It is after my time.

The quarry was located on the northern tip of 180. After the overburden was removed by pan, the quarry/Rock crusher was started about 200 yards south of the main road. After the nose of 180 was uncovered, we started the quarry first one bench, and then two. Before I left we were ready to start a third bench.

After the AF moved into the first wing housing area and the main PX was established near the road we were still blasting away twice a day for rock for the remaining two parking diamonds (early 53).

Additionally an anti-aircraft outfit moved in and wanted the top of 180 for gun positions and their battery areas. (SITE NOTE: This is now the location of the ROKAF Air Defense elements.)

Blasting operations were restricted due to AF objections to once a day and the PX manager only had to refill his shelves once a day after the blast shook everything off.

After I left May53, the rock crusher and quarry was shut down, The crusher was moved with the 841st to Kunsan (K-8) leaving only the 839th at Osan. (SITE NOTE: The 841st completed the new North-South runway at Kunsan when it took over operations from the 808th EAB in Nov 53.)

I do most of my recollection using the plot plan for the Airfield on the general east-west orientation with hills 170 and 180 , route 1 and rail line on a north /south heading. I don't know if this helps in clarifying the questions you have. Let me know if I can offer additional clarification or muddy the waters further. ... There was a road that ran adjacent to the rail spur- led to 919th Maint and 934th Gp Hq , bomb dump and hill 170.
The Main Gate opened in 1953 -- and the "Freight Gate" just below the Songtan Catholic Church was opened in 1954. The first Main Gate was supposedly up near where the present base service station is now. However, by 1955, the photos indicate the main gate shack was directly at the road that proceeded straight ahead to MSR-1 through the Shinjang Mall area. The "Freight Gate" would be closed to vehicular traffic after the Korean War. Thus after the Korean War, the primary vehicular route was on the Shinjang Road to the Main Gate.

The Hill 180 Gate opened in 1953 -- but in reality, it was simply an open area where military personnel walked off-base to the prostitute village of Makum-ni. By 1954, the area has expanded with tightly packed housing and the gate was used primarily by ROK civilians for entrance to the base for work. After the Korean War, the ROK Army took over air defense (anti-aircraft positions) with an ammo dump off base and the Hill 180 Gate reverted to ROK control.

There are other access gates along the perimeter but they are not opened for general use.

The first road built to Osan AB was the back gate road. The back gate (Doolittle Gate area) was closed after the Korean War and there were on-base roads from this area around the Bomb Dump Hill (Beta site) to the Freight Gate in the Shinjang area. Roads from the Hill 170 area also ran down to the Freight Gate. The Doolittle Gate was opened in 1983 after the Overpass was built. At that time, the idea was to move the Main Gate to reduce the congestion in the Shinjang Mall area -- but its soon became obvious that the Main Gate was the preferred entrance. The Bravo Gate was added in 1990 as a contingency gate when the road connecting the Overpass Road to the Doolittle Gate connected to the Namsan Road.

(NOTE: For an excellent slide show on the roads on the base, see Retired Activities Office by Jack Tierwell. This site is probably the most comprehensive site available for the Osan AB community dealing with a myriad of matters and provides complete and up-to-date information on everything from shopping to slide show tours of the area.)

SHINJANG 1-DONG AREA

The Shinjang 1-dong area runs from the Kyongbu Railway on the east to Osan AB on the west. The Doolittle Gate Road to the north and the Shinjang Shopping Mall Road to the south. (NOTE: The start of the Doolittle Gate Road is in Seotan-myeon.)

K-55 Back Gate Road The 839th Engineering Aviation Battalion (EAB) cut the first road using a grader from the MSR-1 to the base along the same route as the current road to the back gate (Doolittle Gate) in 1952. Don Tomajan of the 839th EAB, stated, "I was told by Ernie Harper (deceased), a former Hv Eqp (heavy equipment) operator with the 839th EAB, that he was the Cat bulldozer operator that made the initial path for the road into the area that would become K-55 from Rte 1." Don went on to state that the back gate (Doolittle Gate) was the first "Main Gate" in 1952-1954 as Hill 180 was still under construction and the only way to get over the Hill 180 was by 4-wheel drive vehicles. (Source: Email from Don Tomajan in Jun 2005.) Photos taken by Bob Spiwak of the bomb dump in 1953 shows a road that leads up to the MSR-1 to corroborate Don's story. In the photo, the road intersects the Kyongbu Railway and then joins the MSR-1.


K-55 Runway (1952) (Don Tomajan)

(NOTE: To the lower left corner is the Doolittle Gate area with the road running to the perimeter. The villages to the lower left is the Shinjang-ni village area. Over the Bomb Dump Hill in the "dimple area" of Hill 170 is the Namsan Village.

The path of the Hwangkoji River has been redirected so that it runs to the north of the base almost perpendicular to the runway and now joins the Jinwi River path in the area of the upper right hand corner of the picture and then runs to the left top of the picture. At the end of the runway, the river is turned and flows now to the right of the picture. A bridge over the river now connects this side to Seotan-myeon. The entire area to the west of the base has been turned into rice fields and is uniformly flat. To the right off-base, there is only one village located in the area about half-way down the runway. A road now runs parallel with the runway from the south end to the north end. At the end of the runway, the entry to the base is blocked by ROK riot police.)


In 1952, the "front gate" was in the 839th EAB catonment area on-base -- where the base movie theater and Tumuli Lodge are today. Access from the MSR-1 was through the Doolittle Gate area access road. Up until early 1954, the passage over Hill 180 was a treacherous route requiring a four-wheel drive vehicle. All the supplies came in through this back gate (Doolittle Gate) road until the Main Gate entrance was completed. (SITE NOTE: We use the term Doolittle Gate for reference point purposes only as the Doolittle Gate was not opened until 1983. Some Koreans simply say "Duri Gate.")


839th EAB Overview Map of K-55 (Aug 1951) (Click HERE for large drawing)
(John Okonski)


The 51st Wing Historian, John Okonski, 51st FW Historian, provided an Aug 51 map that clearly shows the dirt road that was built to the base from MSR-1. This road was built to bring in all the equipment and materials required to construct the base. The railway spur was then built. We theorize it followed the original dirt path to the Shinjang-ni Village that was in the area. (SITE NOTE: This village is shown on aerial maps up until the 1970s.)


Map of Doolittle Gate road and Namsan Village area (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)


Shinjang 1-dong from the Doolittle Gate Road (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

However, Mr. Chae Won-ho, 51st CES Real Property, and Jim Price, first assigned at Osan in 1963, stated that there NEVER was a road to the MSR-1 this area. In addition, Pyeongtaek historical information through the Shinjang 1-dong house office stated the road was built between 1980-1983, though the photographic evidence and Aug 51 drawing that shows otherwise. (SITE NOTE: A copy of the photograph of this road was given to the Shinjang-dong House Office on 12 Jul 2005. This disparity may be due to the road being an undeveloped dirt road at the time, but it still requires resolution.)

The impression that there was no road in the area may be because the road fell into disuse immediately after the Korean War when the base population dropped off and after the 58th FBW left there was no major unit at the base except the TDY elements standing nuclear alerts. As such only the Main Gate was needed for the base, while the Hill 180 Gate was turned over to the ROKAF. This road -- which starts in Seotan-myeon -- now was used for the Shinjang-ni farming village and shown in aerial photographs well into the 1970s.

See Namsan Village Road below: In the 1953 picture of "Hill 170 View of Bomb Dump and Namsan-Village Area", the road exiting the base is on the left of the picture and leads to MSR-1. The present back gate (Doolittle Gate) is at the tip of the bomb dump hill on the left just off the picture. In 1952, though, the "front gate" was in the EAB compound area, and the base was still wide open. Each unit built their own compounds with fences, and Koreans were still occupying portions of the base as the base was being constructed.

If you blow the photo up, you can see where the Kyongbu Rail Line intersects this road, but detail is very poor. The valley area in the top left of picture leads to Jinwi-myeon. (NOTE: In 1951, the Kyongbu line was referred to on US drawings as the Keifu line from Japanese.) On the Aug 1951 overview drawing of the base construction, one can see the existence of a dirt road to the Shinjang-ni village area. This is the road that was graded by the 839th EAB.

MSR-1 is clearly shown in the distance behind the low-lying bomb dump hill coming from Osan-ni to the left and taking a diagonal jog down on the right into what would become the Songbuk dong area of town. (NOTE: At the diagonal jog -- where the present Songtan Fire Station is located -- the road goes straight ahead then up over ridgeline to Seojong-ni Station and then straight to Pyeongtaek.)

Namsan Village Road In the 1950s, there was no road to the right of the Main Gate leading to the Namsan Village area. The village below Hill 170 became the first bar areas for Osan AB, but soon returned to being a farming village once the Main Gate opened.


Hill 170 View of Bomb Dump and Namsan-Village Area (1953) (Robert Spiwak)

In the 1960s, this area was sparcely populated with farm houses along the hill near the perimeter. To the right of the main gate as you entered the base was the village of Chicol-ni. It extended until the Namsan-ni village area and it consisted of mudwattle farm houses scattered along the hillside. The Haesong Dance Hall -- the first large building to the left as one exited the base -- was located in this area in 1957. As more population moved into the area, mud brick and stucco houses were built starting from the perimeter down to the rice fields in the low-lying areas.


Namsan Village (1968) (Bill Bayless)


Namsan Village farmhouse (1968) (Bill Bayless) (NOTE: This is the house with the wall on the middle right in the picture above.)

In the 1968 photo above, the mudwattle houses (choga-chip) in the center area are those from the 1950s. Notice that the older houses are grayish in color, while the newer stucco houses are lighter in tone. In the 1953 photo the house on the left with a wall when seen from the rear is located on the right. By 1968, it was still there, but some new houses to the area. The area had returned to being purely agricultural. By 2005, the mudwattle houses were gone and the place they were at was now an open field. However, the two houses at the bottom of the photo still remained occupied by the original residents. The house to the right cares for a small farm patch planted where the original homes once stood.

Top R: Daycare Center Top of Hill 170. In the 1968 photo above, the paths converge at the top of the hill just below the hilltop -- this is the present location of this building.; Top L: Road looking up towards Daycare Center. In the 1968 photo, the path leading down from the top on the left is this stretch of road.; Middle R: Apartments under construction. These apartments are at the base of the path.; Middle L: Last two houses from 1960s. These houses are seen in the 1968 photo at base of hill. Bottom R: Rooftop of 1960s house (Note the transite roof and construction of mudbrick covered with stucco used in the area houses in the 1960s when concrete and wood were scarce commodities. The mud bricks were made in an open air "factory" in the Songbuk dong area.) Bottom L: The second 1960s house but note that additions were made over the years. (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

In the Chicol-ni area along the hill below the perimeter was mudwattle houses. Slowly these choga-chip farmer houses were torn down and converted to more modern houses for the military personnel who lived off-base and for housing for the influx of people moving to the area to seek employment on base. In the 1960s, the low lying areas were still rice fields, but soon the rice fields were filled in and new houses were built. By the 1970s, the housing spread now from the Chicol-ni side outside the gate to the Mokchon-ni side near the railroad tracks.

(L) Hillside from Perimeter looking down on Hillside area towards Jinwi (1965) (Harry Tezlaf) (NOTE: Mokchon Village in distance to left with Jinwi hills in distance. Railroad tracks are marked by telephone poles. Path closest to foreground became Namsan Village Road.) (R) Hillside along Perimeter to the left of Main Gate looking from the rice paddies to the perimeter (1968) (Bill Bayless) (NOTE: The path at the base became Namsan Village Road. The houses are a mix of mudwattle thatch roof and mudbrick/stucco with transite roofs.)

In the mid-1970s during the major reconstruction in Shinjang, a road was built to the Namsan Village area. Small apartment buildings on the Chicol Village side of the road were built for the military living off-base and the area started to become tightly packed with housing. From the Main Gate the Namsan Village Road proceeded straight then jogged left at the perimeter wall across from the Jae Yok Road and then straighted out down the slope until the base of Hill 170. However, the road did not extend up the hill whose paths still remained dirt covered.

In the mid-1980s (between 1980-1983), the road and rail overpass to the Doolittle gate was built and the back gate opened. In conjunction with this construction, a new road (Mokchon Village Road) was cut from the new access road to the Namsan village road. This road passed the Bravo Gate and then proceeded to a Y-intersection where one turned left to the Main Gate. An 3-building apartment complex was built for the growing population in the area as well as one down by the tracks in the Mokchon area.

In the late 1990s, the small road up the hill in the Namsan Village area was paved with concrete. In the 2000s, this road was expanded and new apartments built on the hill. By the mid-2000s, other apartment complexes were being added in anticipation of the influx of personnel when the Yongsan Garrison was scheduled to close.

Back Gate to the Mokchon Village area The Mokchon Village area was between the Bomb Dump Hill and the railroad tracks and extended to the Back Gate Road. The housing area was clustered close to the Shinjang side, while the area near the Back Gate Road was almost entirely rice fields.


Mokchon Area (1976) (Harry Tezlaf) (NOTE: This multi-story construction and cinderblock walls. In the 1970s, the street seemed spacious, but in 2005, the same street with cars parked on both sides now is very congested with room in places for only one car to pass at a time.)

After the Korean War, the back gate road to the MSR-1 fell into disuse as all vehicular traffic was through the Hill 180 gate. By 1963 when Jim Price was stationed at Osan AB with the 6134th Advisory Group, there was no road to the MSR-1 from the back gate (Doolittle Gate area). (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan with Jim Price, July 2005.) There was nothing but ricefields in this area until the late 1970s. There was a narrow country road off-base from the back gate (Doolittle Gate) to the Main Gate (Hill 180) but used primarily by farmers or military personnel living in the Mokchon area.

From the Back Gate (Doolittle Gate), the road proceeded straight ahead until where there is presently the fork where the road that leads to the Bravo Gate. This road wasn't there in the 1960s, but if you drew a line from the back gate road straight across the rice fields you would notice that it would connect to another country road which is barely wide enough for two cars. This was the road that the old back gate road connected to. The road went straight ahead to towards the Kyongbu railway tracks then veered right until it was following the railway. This area was all rice fields in the 1960s.

Most of the houses were clustered at the base of the bomb dump hill on the Namsan Village side and the road went through the rice fields and entered the Shinjang Mall area of present-day Shinjang-1 dong as it neared the Kyongbu railroad tracks.


Mokchon Area (Circa 1970) (NOTE: This new type of housing was for the American married personnel who lived off-base. This road runs parallel to the Kyongbu Railway.)

When the road was in line with the tip of the bomb dump hill, it turned right and ran parallel with the rail lines. It continued parallel with the tracks, past the location of the present Mokchun Underpass until it was in line with what is now the Shinjang Mall. It then made a sharp right. It crossed over the rail spur leading to the freight gate -- and ran the road directly to the Main Gate of K-55 (Osan AB). (NOTE: The road to the Bravo Gate was not built until the 1990s. In the 1960s and 1970s, a hotel was located where the road is now. There was nothing behind it but houses.) (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan with Jim Price, July 2005.)

Mokchon Village Road In 1990, the road was cut after the completion of the Back Gate (Doolittle Gate) Road from Route 1 with an overpass of the Kyongbu Railway. The road connected at a "Y" where the right road went to the Doolittle Gate and the left road would connect to the Namsan Village Road.

The road cut the Bomb Dump Hill in half and the Beta site was reserved for Osan Air Base use while the other half towards Shinjang was returned to the ROK. On the west side of the Bomb Dump hill where the train spur entered the base, the "Bravo Gate" was built as a contingency gate.


Road to Bravo Gate (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

SHINJANG 2-DONG AREA

The Shinjang 2-dong runs from the Shinjang Shopping Mall Road to the north. The road from Milwal Road to Jijang-dong Road just below the Taegwang Middle School marks the southern boundary. If you follow the arc of this road up until it meets the Osan AB perimeter, you have the southern boundary. The base perimeter is the western boundary and the eastern boundary is Kyongbu Railway.

Shinjang Shopping Mall Road This is the first cutoff to the main gate constructed by Co. A, 839th EAB in 1952. It made the turn-off from Osan-ni at the Songbuk Farmers' Market. When the base was being constructed the railway crossing was unmarked, but by 1959 there was a crossing signal at the tracks.


Railway Crossing to Songbuk Farmers Market (1959) (Ed Stirling) (NOTE: The train is in the distance heading to Osan-ni. Note the closest crossing is marked (signal bar on right side of picture). The next unmarked crossing is what became the Mokchon Underpass road that enters directly into the Farmers Market. In the distance is the Mokchon Village to the left of the picture. Further down is the original road that was built to get the equipment initially onto the base. By 1959, it was simply a road to Shinjang-ni Village on the Seotan-myeon side of the base.)



(L) Area to left of crossing as one heads into Songbuk-dong. Compare this photo to the same area in the 1959 photo. This area now filled with deserted houses and structures that are collapsing. (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Area to right of crossing as one heads into Songbuk-dong.



(L) Mokchon Pedestrian Underpass Street looking toward Railway (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Intersection to Mokchon Pedestrian Underpass Street (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: Used to be police box location in 1960s-1970s.)



(L) Mokchon Pedestrian Underpass (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Mokchon Pedestrian Underpass looking towards Shinjang Mall Road (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


By the late 1950s, there was also an unmarked pedestrian crossing of the railway in use by the residents of the Chicol Village area. (See 1959 photo above.) In the 1970s, a small manned rail crossing was added for people and vehicular traffic. Later in the mid-1970s the road was paved. When the Shinjang Overpass was built in 1976, the crossing was blocked. The Mokchon pedestrian underpass built in 2000 the connects to Tanhyun Road (MSR-1) across from the entrance to the Songbuk Farmers' Market. When the Mokchon Underpass was built, a road was constructed to the top of the hill to the Shinjang 1-dong House Office and Jungang Church.


Mokchon Underpass from Songbuk-dong side (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



Railway Crossing on Mokchon Road (Circa late 1970s) (51st FW Archives)

Railway Crossing on Mokchon Road (Circa late 1970s) (51st FW Archives)

Railway Crossing on Mokchon Road (Circa late 1970s) (51st FW Archives)

Train southbound on Kyongbu Line (1974) (Ken Shallenbarger)

2005: Mokchon Pedestrian Underpass (Jul 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


In the 1990s, the Shinjang Mall area was converted to a pedestrian traffic only area to create a true shopping mall with parking lots surrounding it. Movable blockades were erected at the rail spur (Plaza Road) and near the Main Gate at the Phoenix Hotel.



Map of Shinjang Shopping area (NOTE: This map slightly dated: Kyukmin bank is now Uri Bank. Hanmi Bank is now Citibank. The Asia Hotel expanded to the Shinjang Road. The road one block up from the Shinjang Shopping Mall is Jae Yok Gil (Road). At the end of the Shinjang Shopping Mall Road is the Mokchon Underpass. The underpass location on the map in relation to the Songtan Catholic Church is about one block off. At the "T" intersection with Shinjang Road, going south is Milwal Road. Shinjang Shopping Mall in this text is referred to as Mokchon road. Plaza Road is the road that runs parallel to the railroad spur into the "Freight Gate."

Shinjang Road According to Mr. Oh Sun-soo, his family owned a home just outside the Main Gate and GQ Tailors was started in this location in 1962. In 1970, Park Chung-hee visited Osan AB and the Wing Commander stated that the Shinjang Mall Road was too congested and that he needed another access road to the MSR-1. Park Chung-hee acquiesced to the request and work was started. Mr. Oh's family lost their home and business -- and were compensated with very little money. Thus he remembers well how this road came about.


Main Gate. (1955) (NOTE: At the Main Gate there is a house nearest the gate to the right of the road. This house used to belong to the family of Mr. Oh Sun-soo. The road to the MSR-1 would come around the back of the house and enter the base. The road that goes to the top of the picture near the middle is the Milwal Road. The road would have to go around a farm house at the Main Gate and then proceed diagonally to Milwal Road.)


In the first years from 1952-1955, this road was not actually straight but rather veered around houses as it neared the gate. If you look at the 1955 photo above, the Shinjang Mall Road into the center of Chicol Village went straight ahead as one exits the Main Gate. The Shinjang Road is a diagonal from the left upper corner to the Main Gate. It is a small undeveloped road that made its way up the hill. The ridge was not as steep then as it was still only a two track system.

The first step was to extend and widen Milwal Road from the top of the hill to the Main Gate. Viewing old photos, the alley way just to the right of the Main Gate as you exit was the original Milwal Road as it wound around a farm house then it went at a diagonal to the base of the hill and then up the hill. The widening process meant the complete reconstruction of the road and many people lost their homes and were given very little in compensation.


Outside Main Gate during Milwal Expansion; From Milwal Road looking towards Main Gate (1974) (Harry Tezlaf) (NOTE: Notice new lamp posts and trees.)



Outside Main Gate before the Overpass to MSR-1 built (1974) (Ken Shallenbarger)

Outside of Main Gate (9 Jun 1977) (36th FS Fiends Site) (Notice the trees have been cut down and Milwal Road is expanded.)


After Milwal Road was complete, then the work on the Shinjang Road and Overpass started. The rail road overpass connected the Shinjang area to the ridge line and MSR-1. (NOTE: The ridgeline was cutback in the late 1980s to expand the railway to a four track system.) Over the ridgeline, the Terminal Ridge Road was cut to connect the MSR-1 Bypass Road to the MSR-1 and Osan AB (K-55).

After all the roads were complete, the Shinjang Road proceeded out the gate turned right and went straight until it turned left at Milwal Road. Though the street was straightened, the alleyways remained. The alleyway just outside the gate matches the "jog" around the farm house to Milwal Road in the 1950s. The diagonal alleyway that exits at the Volvo dealership matches the original route of Shinjang Road in the 1950s. The original slope from the ridgeline was not as steep as it appears today and walking it was time


Intersection to base. (1974) (Ken Shanllenbarger) (NOTE: Roads paved by mid-1970s. Yellow Taxi and trucks from downtown. To base is to the left. Right is to the MSR-1 Bypass.)


(L) Overpass from Base (1976) (Harry Tezlaf) (NOTE: Notice the traffic light. To the left is to Seojong-ni and right to downtown. Intracity bus to far right edge of picture.) (R) Same intersection in 2005. To left is to downtown and to right to Seojong-ni. Straight ahead to Express Bus Terminal over hill. (Jun 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Throughout the 1960s-70s, vehicular traffic was minimal as cars were still a luxury item affordable only by the rich and powerful -- and American soldiers. American cars were often seen throughout the area, but there was not any real congestion except near the main gate of Osan AB. For the most part, the streets were relatively free of traffic except for the constant flow of speeding dump trucks on the MSR-1 due to the nation-wide road construction projects. After Songtan-eup (town) was raised to Songtan City in 1981 and combined Songtan and Seojong-ni, the effects of the Miracle of the Han started to appear in the Songtan and Seojong-ni area. Road and apartment construction projects started to create more congestion on the roads.


Shinjang Road leading to MSR-1 (1965) (Harry Tezlaf)


Shinjang Road Leading to MSR-1 (1965) (Harry Tezlaf)


(L) Overpass Bridge to Main Gate (1984) (Mike Dunnigan); (R) Railroad Overpass on Shinjang Road (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



2005: (L) Overpass on Shinjang 2-dong side (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Overpass from Taegwang School Road on Shinjang 2-dong side (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


The railway overpass was built connecting Shinjang area to the Songbuk-dong in 1976. In one sense, it added to the isolation of the Shinjang-dong area from the rest of Songtan. The commercial growth continued in the Songbuk-dong side of the town, while the Shinjang area remained linked to the base for its survival. Park Chung-hee was intending to attract tourists to garner much needed foreign exchange in the mid-1970s. As a result, Seoul, Kyongju, Pusan and the military camptowns such as Itaewon, Euijongbu and Osan were upgraded.


Overpass from the top of the hill. It appears much as it does today. (1978) (Harry Tezlaf) (NOTE: Coming from the base, the road to left goes to the "downtown" area and the road to the right goes to Jwa-dong (Sutkogae) )

MSR1 Police Box (1974) (Ken Shallenbarger) (NOTE: The Police Box is where the rail overpass on Shinjang road intersects with Tanhyun Road (MSR-1). The policeman on the right is controlling the traffic light.)

Freight Gate Road (Plaza Road) In the Korean War, the railroad spur from the Jae Yok-dong area (Shinjang-dong) entered the base at the toe of the Bomb Dump hill, near where the present Songtan Catholic Church is now located. The spur of the Kyongbu line leading to this area started in the Jae Yok-dong (Shinjang-2 dong) area near the present rail overpass, ran through shanty-town area to the base of the bomb dump hill. The bombs were stored in earth revetments dug into the face of the hill -- on both sides. (Source: Robert Spiwak photos (1953) and Kalani O'Sullivan observations (2005)) (NOTE: On-base bomb dump hill area is now referred to as the Beta site and still has ammo storage shelters on the Doolittle Gate side. Earthen revetments are still seen on the portion of Bomb Dump hill returned to the Shinjang-1 dong control.)

In 1953 a navigable road was cut over Hill 180 -- and the base was "expanded" for the relocation of the 5th AF Advanced Headquarters from Seoul. (Source: Email with Don Tomajan, Jun 2005) With the end of the Korean War, the freight gate road fell into disuse.

After the Korean War, the "Freight Gate" road (Plaza Road) would be used only by the Korean people who had constructed houses parallel with this spur -- or Americans who lived in the area. The "freight gate" would only be opened for trains carrying cargo onto the base. Like the back gate in the 1960s, it was no longer an active entry point to the base. By the 1960s, the gate was for train freight only. (Source: Verbal conversation Kalani O'Sullivan with Jim Price, July 2005.)

There was a small road off-base that ran parallel with the rail spur tracks into the Jae Yok-dong (Shinjang-dong) area with houses running parallel with the tracks. (NOTE: This road would later be called Plaza Road. The road turned right where the World Plaza is now.) One went over the rail spur, through the Shinjang Shopping Mall area (then a street) and then into the Main Gate.


(L) Shinjang Mall before the rail spur coming from Mokchon Road (R) Railroad Overpass on Shinjang Road (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: Straight ahead is the Shinjang Shopping Mall. To the right is the "Freight Gate." The rail spur that is no longer used can be seen going right to left buried in the road.)


Since the late 1980s, the spur has no longer been active. Due to complications with safety as the houses crowded along the rail spur, munitions and POL could no longer be transported through the Jae Yok-dong (Shinjang 1-dong and Shinjang 2-dong).

Railroad spur from Overpass (1984) (Mike Dunnigan)

At the same time in the 1980s there were major improvements to the infrastructure nationwide as the main highways were being paved and the routes from Pusan to Seoul had expressways built. By the end of the 1980s, trucks were handling all of the transportation and the "Freight Gate" was permanently closed. Later half of the Bomb Dump Hill that the spur ran along into th base was returned to the ROK. (NOTE: However, there are still problems with the containerized ammunition delivery (CAD) system in use today being transported by trucks. Trucks carrying munitions must be directed to Osan's off-base Alpha site two miles from the base. In addition, moving the containerized munitions creates special freight handling problems as movement by the heavy equipment loaders literally destroys the road surfaces. This problem has not been resolved.)


Railspur with Shinjang Road Overpass in rear (Jun 1993) (Lee Hak Jun)


2005: Railspur entering Shinjang area (NOTE: the rails are being filled in with dirt as they are no longer used.) (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

2005: Railspur continues into Mall area while Mokchon Road veers right to follow railroad tracks. (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)



2005: Railspur at the Freight Gate looking towards Bravo Gate from Shinjang. This is the area where the old perimeter road from the west side of the Bomb Dump hill looped around to the east side and headed back into base. At the Freight Gate, the road exited the base and followed the railspur into Shinjang till it intersected the Mokchon Road (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


2005: Railspur entering Shinjang area (NOTE: the rails are being filled in with dirt as they are no longer used.) (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

2005: Railroad sign and stop sign in Shinjang next to tracks (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

2005: Railspur in Shinjang mall area next to Railroad Overpass (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

2005: Railspur entering Shinjang area from the Kyongbu line (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Milwal-dong Road As construction on the infrastructure started, a road (or more reasonably a wide dirt path for carts) to the Hill 180 gate developed as people built houses up the hill along the perimeter. As one left the main gate, it twisted around existing houses then straight up the incline. If you look compare the 1957 Aerial View of Main Gate and the Shinjang Shopping Mall area Map, you will see that the alley just to the right as you exit the gate, matches the house location on the 1957 map. The alleyway was the jog around this farm house.


Milwal Road (1968) (Bill Bayless)

Later in the early 1970s, the Milwal Road was cut to run straight down to the main gate. A T-intersection was made to connect it to the Shinjang Road to MSR-1.

At the top of the incline to Milwal-dong, it veered right and followed the perimeter until it reached the Hill 180 Gate. Up to the 1970s, this remained a narrow dirt road. Makum-ni sprouted up outside this gate as a "camptown" area in the 1950s, but soon withered as the Shinjang area became the center of the bar culture.


Looking up Milwal Road (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


In the 1980s, the Milwal-dong Road was cut straight down the hill until it intersected with the Songtan Subway Station Road. Turning left, one crossed the overpass to Jwa-dong Road (MSR-1). Turning right, the Milwal Road continued down until it connected to Pokchang Road.

In the 1990s, Pokchang Road was constructed in anticipation of the move of the troops from Yongsan as agreed upon in a 1990 Memorandum of Understanding. Pokchang Road was to connect to the new area on the west side of Hill 180 that had been reserved for the Yongsan relocation. Milwal Road was extended down to intersect with Pokchang Road.

However, the ROK failed to follow through on the funding and the move stagnated. In 2000, Pyeongtaek City demanded the area be turned over to the City because of lack of use. Immediately, the Ministry of Defense turned the area over to the ROKAF and constructed the Air Force Operations Center (AFOC) along the west perimeter. The Pokchang Road terminates at the AFOC Gate.

Pokchang Road continues down until it intersects with the Jijang Overpass Road and the Panseong Maul Route. The Jijang Overpass Road crosses over the Kyongbu Railway and connects to the Burak Mountain Road. The Panseong Maul Route leads to Godeok (Godeok Myeon) and Route 340 to Anjung (east) or Seojong-ni (west).

After the Jijang Overpass intersection, the road continues down until it connects to the Taegwang School Road-Pokchang Gal Pyeong Road. It turns right and continues down to Route 340 to Anjung (east) or Seojong-ni (west).


Map of Shinjang 1-dong & Shinjang 2-dong area (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)

Hill 180 Gate Road In the early 1950s, homes were built on the side of the hill to house the growing number of people moving to the area seeking work. The Hill 180 Gate was simply a dirt path that veered right at the top of the Milwal Road. Into the 1960s, the road which split off from the Milwal Road remained a small dirt path up the hill side. It continued past the Jaeil Church till the southwest tip of Hill 180. The road then turned right (northeast) and followed the perimeter through the Chagi-ri area. By the 1980s, new roads had been built into this area and many of the dirt paths were eliminated. Only the original dirt path following the perimeter (Hill 180 road) and a few main side roads remained the same.


Map of Milwal-dong area with Pokchong Road leading to AFOC Gate at bottom and Hill 180 Gate Road following perimeter of the base (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)


Hill 180 Gate Road (1968) (Bill Bayless)

NOTE: Taken from the hilltop where the Jaeil Church is presently located. The top of the hill to left is the base perimeter. The wide path (road) running along the left is the Hill 180 Gate road. The dirt path running left to right now is the entrance to the Jaeil Church on the hill. Following the path back towards the Main Gate, the Jungang Movie Theater is at the top of Milwal Road. To the top right in the distance, the white building is the Songtan Catholic Church. The Kyongbu Railroad tracks are behind the hill of the church and the faint line from the Church area towards Osan-ni is the railway. The hills in the distance are the mountains in the Jinwi area. To the right the rice field area would be reclaimed and become the Taegwang High School.

Notice the roofs of the houses below. To the bottom left, the roof of what appears to be corrugated iron is held down with sandbags alongside a mudwattle house (choga chip) with thatched roof. The roof on the bottom right is the same as the shanties built in Chicoville (Chong-mun eup (Front Gate Town)) in the 1950s. The roof is tar paper tacked down with strips. If you look at the houses in the area, you can see that it is a mix of the choga-chip houses with the mudbrick ones.


The Hill 180 Gate Road passed through Sagi-ri. From this point on, the road entered into the Seotan-myeon and goes past Hamak-kom up a rise. At the top of the rise is the Hill 180 Gate and just over the rise is Makum-ni -- now a nondescript farming village. In the 1990s the Pokchang Road leading to the AFOC Gate was completed. The Hill 180 Gate is now closed and all traffic on this side of Osan AB now enters the AFOC Gate. The Hill 180 Gate Road joined the Pokchong Road.

Exiting the Hill 180 Gate, one goes straight to join the Pokchang Road in Seojong-dong. If turns right at the Hill 180 Gate Road, one continues past Jangdong and one will eventually pass the AFOC Gate on your right about two miles down the road.

After the AFOC Gate, there is the intersection with Pokchang Road. If one turns right at the intersection, one follows the perimeter for a bit. At the end of the perimeter, the road continues down to the Hwanggui intersection. If you go left, you head to Godeok on Rte 340. If you go straight ahead, you are at Kumgak-ri. If you turn right, you go to the Chang-dong Road leading to the south end of the Osan AB runway. (SEE Seotan Myeon: Chang-dong Road for route to the south end of the K-55 runway.)


Right: Closed Hill 180 Gate; Left: Impacts of Closure as shown by deserted apartment.
(2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Later in the 1980s this path would be improved and paved, but most of the dirt paths leading to the houses were eliminated and new roads running parallel to the slope were added. Of course, many of the shanties were cleared away at the same time as well.

The road continued down until it came to a rise. At the top of the rise was the Hill 180 gate. (NOTE: The Hill 180 Gate closed when the new AFOC Gate opened in 2000.) Right over the rise at the base of the sharp incline is the village of Makum-ni.

In the 1950s, the Hill 180 Gate was an access point that opened to the prostitute village of Makum-ni to the right as you left the gate. It was frequented by the soldiers on Hill 180 -- mostly from the anti-aircraft units stationed at the top of Hill 180. Ed McManus, Col, USA (Ret) wrote in Aug 2005:

... I left in May/June of 53 but not before carving gun pads for AA on hill 180 with my bulldozers (In fact, I lost a D8 that went over when making a side hill cut on the steep slope) The pad locations were designated for me by representatives of the AAA Brigade that was moving elements to K-55. (NOTE: That steep slope is the dropoff on the perimeter next to Makumni. The AAA site is now the ROKAF soccer field that is just up from Hill 180. When the US forces departed at the end of the Korean War, they transferred their AA equipment enmasse to the ROK forces who assumed the anti-aircraft defense role for the base. This became the ROKAF area from about 1956. The Hill 180 Gate became known as the ROKAF Gate as well.)
After the Korean War, Makum-ni returned to being a farming village as the bars opened up at the Main Gate. After the ROKAF had taken over the Hill 180 Gate, a narrow dirt road was constructed that led straight out of the Hill 180 Gate and along ridgeline to a ROKAF ammo storage area. This is the Dorang area and the road follows the ridgeline until it meets Route 340 to Seojong-ni (west) or Anjung (east). Later this would be improved to a paved two-lane road.


Map of Milwal-dong area and Hill 180 Gate Road with Pokchong Road. Taegwang School Road runs along the right side of the photo. (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)

Taegwang School Road After the rice fields had been reclaimed in the mid-1970s, the Taegwang School Road was constructed and runs parallel to the Kyongbu Railway tracks. Actually this area had started with a U-shaped area with the shanty houses hastily thrown together on the west side of Hill 180 spilled down to the edge of the rice fields. Businesses grew on both sides of the road to MSR-1 that became the Shinjang Road. To the right of the Shinjang Road along the railroad tracks, shanty houses were constructed and this area became the "business area" with small hardware shops and used lumber yard. Some of the old buildings from the 1960s -- identifiable by their transite (corrugated concrete/asbestoes sheets) roofs -- still remain in the 2000s. However, the bulk of the buildings are from the "building boom" of the late 1970s and early 1980s.

Along the Taegwang School Road -- which starts at the Shinjang Road Overpass -- there are rows of houses built with the popular red fire brick used in the 1980s. This area is laid out in the grid pattern used after the 1980s. Almost all of the houses and structures in the area were built with red brick that was popular in the 1980s. Some of the older concrete structures were upgraded with ceramic tile facings in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Today there are few 1960s structures, except for the few that are next to the Kyongbu train tracks. After the Taegwang High School, the density of housing along its sides tapers off significantly. The road runs until the Seojong-ni boundary (road below the Taegwang Middle School) where it becomes the Gal Byeong Road.


(L) Taegwang School Road looking toward Overpass (R) Taegwang School Road looking toward Seojong-ni (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)

Songtan Subway Road The Songtan Subway Road was constructed to connect Milwal Road to Jwa-dong Road. This road was constructed in the mid-1960s. As one headed towards the Kyongbu railway, the Songshin Elementary School was to the left and Taegwang Middle School was on the right. After the final rice fields were drained in the late 1970s, the Taegwang High School was built to the south. The overpass from the Jwa-dong Road (MSR-1) was constructed at the same time as the Shinjang Road Overpass in about 1976. In 2005, the Songtan Subway Station opened next to the overpass.

The bulk of the houses in this area were the spill over from the Hill 180 as the houses were constructed down the hill on the east side of the rice fields. The area still contains many 1960s structures with their low roofs and stuccoed exteriors. The area is primarily residential with small groceries stores and churches in the area.

Jijang Overpass Road The Jijang Overpass Road connects the Pokchang Road to the Jijang-dong Road (MSR-1). The Jijang Overpass Road crosses over the Kyongbu line and intersects the Jijang-dong Road (MSR-1). It continues east and becomes the Burak Mountain Road -- which in turn intersects the Bukbu Jungang Road (MSR-1 Bypass Road).

SONGBUK-DONG AREA

The northern boundary is Jinwi-myeon just before the "Y" where on turns down into the downtown area of Songtan. It follows the boundary of Jinwi-myeon past Route 340 and swings down to form the eastern boundary with Hweonkuk-myeon. The southern boundary meets Route 1 across from the Buraksan Mountain Road. The boundary then swings north following Route 1 until it is at the end of the Jisan Kunyong Apartments and then it swings across Route 1 to the base of the Jisan Park Hill at the Gym Park Road (Chae-euk Gonghweon). It then turns north until following the base of the Jisan Park Hill until Jangmi Apartment Road. It then swings west along Terminal Ridge Road until the Kyongbu Railway.


(L) Looking up intersection of Kunyong Apartments and Jisan Park Hill where Songbuk boundary leads to Jangmi Apartment Road to the right. Jisan Elementary School to left. (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Intersection of Jangmi Apartment Road looking towards road with Songbuk House Office one block down. Right to Route 1 and left to Express Bus Terminal. (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Tanhyun Road See MSR-1 Bypass Road.

Songbuk Market Road See MSR-1 Bypass Road.

Jisan Stream (Cheon) Road At the "Y" intersection where MSR-1 and MSR-1 Bypass Road split, there was another minor road that converged. This dirt road followed the Jisan Cheon (Stream) up the valley to Are Konji-ni (Lower Konji Village) and Mite Konji-ni (Upper Konji Village). At that time, the Jisan Stream only flowed during the wet season and the path followed alongside the streambed. When the MSR-1 Bypass Road was built this was a minor road.

In 1955, when the population was expanding, this road carried the materials to build the Songbuk Elementary School which opened in 1955. The location was most likely chosen because it is on "high ground" and the Jisan Stream turned right to flow to the Chinwi River -- but the lower areas were often flooded. The choice of the location also indicates that there was a growing population from the Songtan area (Chicol Village/Chongmun-eup area/Milwal-dong area -- as well as the population growth along the MSR-1 and MSR-1 Bypass road. The school location was probably selected because of its central location with access via the Jisan Stream Road (path); through the Chae-euk Gongwon Road that runs across the Jisan Hill area; and by paths around the base of Buraksan Mountain.

Presently, the Jisan Cheon (Stream) flows down the valley into the Songtan area and is diverted at the Songbuk Elementary School into an underground drainage culvert built in 1985 at the same time the apartments were constructed. It runs beneath the Jisan Cheon (Stream) Road which runs behind the apartments and intersects with the west side of Route 1. On the east side of Route 1, it becomes the Jisan Cheon (Stream) Bottom Road and runs down past the Life Apartments and to the "Y" intersection.

The culvert continues to the other side of the Tanhyun Road (MSR-1) past the "Foreigners Apartments" (Miguk-in Apartu) where it ends. The Jisan Stream then follows the railroad tracks for a bit until it flows under the tracks into the area near the Back Gate (Doolittle Gate) Road. The Jisan Stream then flows under a bridge of the Back Gate Road and continues into the Chinwi River to the north of Osan AB.

Songbuk School Road The Songbuk School Road is the continuation of the Shinjang Road-Terminal Ridge Road-Jangmi Apartment Road. It starts at Route 1 and continues east into the countryside. There are a few restaurants and the Grand Sauna along the road, but very few houses after this point. The Songbuk School Road then becomes the Samnam Highway which then winds through the countryside until it joins the road to the Songtan Interchange.

The Jisan Stream (Cheon) Road intersects this road across from the Songbuk Elementary School. In the future, a new proposed highway (the continuation of Rte 333 to connect to Rte 304) will intersect this road about a mile up the road at the base of the Burak Mountain.

JISAN-DONG AREA

The Jisan-dong western boundary is the Kyongbu Railway. The northern boundary runs up Terminal Ridge Road to Jangmi Apartment Road until the Farmer's Bank at the base of the Jisan Park Hill. It then turns right and follows the base of the Jisan Park Hill until the intersection of Gym Park Road (Chae-euk Gonghweon Gil) and the Jisan Kunyong Apartments. The boundary turns left and goes until Route 1. It then turns left and follows Route 1 until the pedestrian overpass just before the Burak Mountain Road. The Jisan boundary then runs east behind the Library and Apartments along the Jisan Park Hill until the Bukbu-Jungang Road (MSR-1 Bypass). It continues east until the Kyongbu Railway at the boundary of Shinjang 2-dong.


Map of Jisan Hill and Jangmi Apart (2005)
(Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)


NOTE: The pink area to the left is the Songtan area as it existed in the 1970s. The dark green area in the center is the Jisan Park Hill. There is a road on the right of the hill which is the original outline of the hill. The areas that now have buildings were "gouged out" to provide fill for the area. The topmost gouge was at one time the Paradise Lake (reservoir) recreation area which was drained and now is the Jisan Elementary School. At the topmost end of the hill is the Jangmi Apartment Road. Continuing to the left past the yellow MSR-1 Bypass Road is the Terminal Ridge Road that leads to the Osan AB Main Gate. To the far right, the yellow road is the new Route 1.


Terminal Ridge Road This road was constructed to connect the Jwa-dong Road (MSR-1) to the MSR-1 Bypass Road (Songbuk Market Road) in 1952 when the MSR-1 Bypass Road was built by the Army Combat Engineers. This is the boundary between Songbuk-dong and Jisan-dong.


(1954) (Robert Furrer) (NOTE: The MSR-1 Bypass Road was connected to base by this road. Straight ahead, the Jangmi Apartment Road would be built. In the middle of the rice fields is the road that connected the Jisan Hill houses with the Are Konji-ni Village area. Later the area between the MSR-1 Bypass Road and the path would be filled in as the Songbuk-dong area expanded.)


In the 1960s, land along the MSR-1 Bypass was reclaimed and buildings were on both sides of the MSR-1 Bypass. The land formed the Songbuk Farmers market and areas from the intersection until the Jisan Cheon (Stream) Bottom Road. However, up until the 1980s, the road dead-ended at the T-intersection and the area at the base of Jisan Hill remained rice fields and swamps.

Jangmi Apartment Road After the land was reclaimed in the mid-1985s, the Terminal Ridge Road connected to the Jangmi Apartment Road that ran from the Songbuk Market Road-Bukbu Jungang Route (MSR-1 Bypass) to the new Route 1 that was cut over the rise and ran straight until it rejoined the original MSR-1 in Jungang-dong. (NOTE: The road at the Songbuk dong House Office Road is the reclamation line. down to the Songbuk Market Road was reclaimed prior to the 1980s. All the areas from this road to Route 1 was reclaimed AFTER the mid-1980s.)


Intersection of Jangmi Apartment Road (2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan)


Between the MSR-1 Bypass (Songbuk Market Road) and Route 1, there are two roads that intersect the Jangmi Apartment Road. The first road closest to Songbuk Market Road follows the old farm path that connected Are Konji-ni Village and the farm houses at the base of the Jisan Hill. Later the area to the north would be reclaimed in the 1960s as businesses opened up on both sides of the MSR-1 Bypass. The road goes right to the base of Jisan Hill and then curves down to join MSR-1. The road that goes left continues straight until it joins the Jisan Stream (Cheon) Bottom Road.

The second road is a new road at the stop light followed along the base of the Jisan Hill and was used by the trucks to carry fill from the area carved out of Jisan Hill to reclaim the land that all the apartments now sit on. The fill for the reclaimed land came from the Jisan Hill where the Jisan Elementary School is now. The hillside was chopped into in the area that once was Paradise Lake (actually a reservoir) up on the hillside. In the quarried area, the Jisan Elementary and a small apartment complex was built. The road goes left and continues straight until it intersects the Jisan Stream (Cheon) Bottom Road. The road goes right past the Elementary School and curves up until it joins Route 1 at the end of the apartment complexes.

If one continues on Jangmi Apartment Road across Route 1, one will run into the Songbuk Elementary School on one's right and the intersection for the Jisan Stream (Cheon) Upper Road on one's left.

Chae-euk Gongwon Road (Gym-Exercise Road) In the 1970s, there was very little in the way of entertainment in the area, besides the bars and movies. The one place that was available for recreation was Paradise Lake. Actually a reservoir, it had row boats. On the banks, there was a recreation area for children. This reservoir area is now the rear of the Jisan Elementary School and the small apartment complex next door.


Paradise Lake (1976) (Harry Tezlaf) (NOTE: The weeping willows are the trees to the left in the photo.)

The area was accessible from the MSR-1 Bypass Road using what is known as the Chae-euk Gongwon Road (Gym Exercise Road). The Jisan Park hills contain hiking trails and exercise areas at the base of the hill. The MSR-1 side of the Jisan hill has a Buddhist temple. This road now passes along the side of the Jisan Elementary School and the Jisan Kunyong Apartments and then intersects with Route 1.


Map of Jisan Park Hill area (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)

In the mid-1980s, the reservoir (Paradise Lake) was drained and the area dug out to be used as fill for the reclamation of the rice fields and swamps in the area. If one looks at the map of the Jisan Hill, one will see how a large piece was taken out of the hill. The reservoir's location can be identified by the weeping willow trees that are directly on the boundary of the Jisan Elementary School. The now defunct children's park just above the Jisan Elementary School sat on the edge of the "lake." There are two weeping willows that mark the edge of the "lake" as weeping willows were only planted where there was abundant water.


2005 (L) Defunct Amusement Park (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Rear of Jisan Elementary School (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: The weeping willows are seen to the far right on the boundary.)



2005 (L) Buddhist Temple on MSR-1 Bypass side of Jisan hill (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (R) Exercise area on MSR-1 Bypass side of Jisan hill (Aug 2005) (Kalani O'Sullivan) (NOTE: If one follows the first road to the right on Jangmi Apartment Road, it will lead to older farmer-style houses at the base of the hill. Turn left and the dirt road will lead to the temple and exercise areas.)
ICHUNG-DONG AREA

The map from the Pyeongtaek City Si Sa does not indicate Ichung-dong. Then in attempting to locate the exact boundary area for the Ichung-dong, the Jisan-dong House Office and Songtan Branch of the Pyeongtaek City Hall referred us to the Jungang-dong office and Seojong-dong office. As of Aug 2005, we are somewhat confused of the boundary areas for Ichung-dong. This area stil in research.

Munhwakonghweon Road (Tradition Road) To the left of this road is the Songtan Branch of the Pyeongtaek City Hall. Behind these buildings is the Buraksan Mountain. When Songtan City was established in 1981, the vision of the city was to have the "new" city rotate around the City Hall. "Ichung" means "Two Loyalties" and symbolized the melding of the boundaries of the two entities of Songtan and Seojong-ni into Ichung-dong. However, in 1995, Pyeongtaek and Songtan would merge and the the Songtan City Hall would become the Songtan Branch of the Pyeongtaek City Hall. Soon thereafter the identity of "Songtan" as a distinct area began to fade and merge into Pyeongtaek City.


Map of Ichung-dong (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)

At the base of the Buraksan Mountain, the Munhwakonghweon Road heads east. To the right is the business area for Ichung-dong. Behind this are the new upscale apartments for the Songtan area and the new Ichung-dong Elementary School.

Straight ahead is the Leports Sports area with the Munhwakonghweon Civic Center next door. Following the road around behind the Munhwakonghweon Civic Center for a few miles, one comes to the Seojong Junior College -- that was founded in 1983.

SEOJONG-NI AREA

Seotan-myeon is the western boundary. The Seojong-dong area on the north runs from the Shinjang 2-dong area near the Pokchong Road down to Milwal Road to Jijang-dong Road just below the Taegwang Middle School marks the southern boundary. It then proceeds across the Kyongbu Railway to the Jisan-dong area near the Burak Mountain Road. It follows half-way up the Jisan Park Hill behind the apartments on Burak Mountain Road and then crosses Route 1 to the boundary of Songbuk dong. (NOTE: As of Aug 2005, we are not certain of the southern boundary with Jungang and eastern boundaries with Ichung dong (if any) In research.)

Initially, the Seojong-ni area developed separately from the Songtan area. After the rise of the Shinjang-dong (Jae-Yok-dong) area in importance, growth was limited in the Seojong area during the 1960s. Houses remained sparce between the Seojong-ni and the Shinjang-dong area (Jae Yok-dong). The area became Seojong-myeon. Seojong-myeon was made up of the villages of (1) Cheoncheon (2) Jijang (3) Pokchang (4) Shinchang (5) Saguri; and (5) Wanjokpong.

However, with the start of the Miracle of the Han River in the 1970s, more small manufacturing shops moved into the area. Along the MSR-1, three-four story concrete buildings were erected. The growth in the Seojong-ni area spread outwards towards the Shinjang-dong area and into the Jangang-dong area.

By the 1980s, the growth had reached the boundaries of the Shinjang area and more small-to-mid-sized factories moved into the area because of the lack of space in Seoul as well as the growth in Seoul south of the Youngdongpo area which was connected by the MSR-1. Three story apartment complexes were erected in the area. The streets in this area of expansion followed a grid pattern indicating post-1980s construction, but the streets were very narrow -- mainly because there were few cars in those days.

In 1981 Songtan-eup (town) changed to Songtan-shi (city) and Seojong-myeon was incorporated into Songtan. It became Seojong-dong and was divided into Seojong 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9. Songtan City Hall Building was moved from Jungang-dong to Seojeong-dong on November 13, 1986.

Ichung-dong was created north of Route 1 with the idea of melding both Songtan and Seojong-ni into one city with a new central administrative area. However, the later incorporation of Songtan City into Pyongtaek City in 1995 changed these plans and Songtan started to lose its identity as a "city." On July 20, 1996, the border of Ichung-dong and Seojong-dong were adjusted with Seojong-dong gaining the larger share.

Burak Mountain Road (Buraksan Gil) This 4-lane road runs between Route 1 and the Bukbu-Jungang Road (MSR-1 Bypass). The Route 1 intersection is near the pedestrian overpass and the Songtan Library on the Jisan Park Hill side. The area halfway up the Jisan Park Hill is in Seojong-dong based upon the old boundary of Seojong-myeon (district) when Songtan and Seojong-ni were separate entities.

On 1 July 1981, Songtan-eup (town) became Songtan-si (city) and Seojong-myeon was merged into the new Songtan City. This wide road was part of the master plan to make this area the new center of Songtan City. At that time, the national plan to combine Pyeongtaek and Songtan into an urban-agricultural city had not yet been surfaced, so the plans were centered on Songtan's merging of Seojong-ni and Songtan into one city.

However, on 10 May 1995, Songtan City was incorporated into the urban agricultural city of Pyeongtaek City and the Songtan started to lose its identity as a separate entity -- and what had been envisioned as the new Songtan City Hall in Ichung-dong became the Songtan Branch Office of the Pyeongtaek City Hall.

Seojong Tourism Road (Seojong Gyangyangtukgu Gil) The 4-lane Seojong Tourism Road connects the MSR-1 Bypass Road (Bukbu-Jungang Road) to Route 1 to Pyeongtaek. Designed as part of the master plan to be the commercial center of the new Songtan City in 1981. In the mid-1980s, this wide street grew to serve as the middle point in joining Seojong-myeon and Songtan-eup (town) into Songtan City. Along this road are the major banks, restaurants, and movie theater for the Songtan area. Directly across the street is the Songtan Branch of the Pyeongtaek City Hall.

As one heads up the road from the MSR-1 Bypass Road, behind the shops to the left are the 3-story apartment complex area built in the mid-1980s for the lower-income families. It stretches to Burak-Mountain Road. The streets were considered wide in the 1980s, but now they are congested because of the mass of cars and at times, barely passable. To the right, behind the shops along Seojong Road is an area of small shops and restaurants that stretches for a couple of blocks until Donggu-jae Mountain.

Seojong-dong Road & Donggi-So Road (Registry Office Road) Prior to 2005, the original MSR-1 (Jijang-dong Road-Samchon Street) was intersected by the Seojong-dong Road. As of 2005, the Seojong-dong Road no longer intersects the MSR-1 Bypass Road, but instead is an underpass of the Kyongbu Railway and connects to the Taegwang School Road on the other side of the tracks.

The Seojong-dong Road going east crosses the MSR-1 Bypass Road (Bukbu-Jungang Road) and becomes the Donggi-so Road. (NOTE: Part of Donggu-jae Mountain (at the corner of Donggi-So Road and Rte 1) was carved out to provide fill for the construction in the area. Some buildings now occupy this area.) In turn, the Donggi-so Road crosses Rte 1 and becomes the Munhwakonghweon Road.

The area between Seojeong-dong Road and Galbyeong-guggi Road is laid out on a grid indicating the construction in the mid-1980s. Construction before that followed the topography. This is the same time that Songtan City was beginning to fulfill its dream of being a united city by merging Songtan with Seojong-ni. This area was the middle ground.


Map of Ichung-dong area and Seojeong-dong area (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)

Route 1 (Songtan Bypass) The Route 1 bypass continues through Songtan until it rejoins the original MSR-1 in Jungang-dong. The major apartment construction in Jungang-dong is scheduled to start opening up in 2006.

Pokchang Road The Milwal Road intersects this road which leads to the AFOC Gate on Hill 180. Built in 1990s, this road is the boundary of Seojong-dong area. The area to the south of Pokchong Road is a hill that extends down to Seojong-ni with no residences or farms. Pokchong Road starts at the intersection of Jijangkoji Street near the tracks and continues to the AFOC Gate. At its start near the railroad tracks, the area is not as tightly packed with housing but as one approaches the base of Hill 180, the houses become tightly packed. It continues over the Seotan-myeon boundary and then to the AFOC Gate.

Route 340 Heading west, Route 340 passes through Seojong-ni near the Seojong-ni Station and heads towards Anjung after crossing over the Kyongbu Railway. Heading east, Route 340 crosses Rte 1 in the Jangdang-dong area and continues southeast until it reaches the Songtan Exit of the Route 40.


Map of Seojong-ni area (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office) (NOTE: Hyomyeong School Road on right connects to the Route 1 to Pyeongtaek. Across the tracks, Godeok-myeon boundary for Songtan area.)

MSR-1 (Seojong Market Road) Up until the 1980s, the area between Songtan and Seojong-ni was mostly rice farms alongside the railroad tracks with scattered farm houses on the hills. In the 1980s, small five-story apartment buildings were constructed along the railroad track area for lower-income families as the growth of Songtan spread. In the mid-1980s, the area remained primarily residential with small manufacturing or hardware shops in the area. This area is in line with the Ichung-dong area to the south of the MSR-1 Bypass Road.

The original MSR-1 continued along after the base of the Jisan Park Hill directly down to Seojeong-ni and veer left into the Seojong Market Road. It would bypass the Seojong-ni Train Station which was a right cutoff. (See SEOJEONG-NI below for photos of train station roads.) Just above the Seojong Market Road was the original center of Seojong-ni as noted by the farm houses that were arranged in a circle. This would indicate a well in the center. ("Seojong" means "West well.")

Today, the road comes to a "Y" intersection. As one is approaching Seojong-ni, the right road is one-way from the Seojong-ni Train station towards Songtan. It appears to have been built in the 1970s judging from the materials used in the construction of the store front buildings. This does NOT appear to be the original MSR-1 but rather a road built later to improve the traffic flow around the station. The one-way street (Seojong Market Road) from the Seojong Station Road appears to be the original MSR-1.

The street goes past the market area. At the intersection, one can turn right to go to the Seojong-ni Train Station. Going straight ahead it crosses the Seojong Station Road. After one block, it rejoins with the MSR-1 Bypass Road (Shinseon Road) and the road becomes the Hyomyeon School Road. It continues straight until the Jungang-dong intersection with Rte 1 and then continues on to Pyeongtaek. From this point on, the Rte 1 follows the original MSR-1 going straight until it passes the Pyeongtaek Train Station.

MSR-1 Bypass Road (Shinseon Street) The MSR-1 Bypass Road continued along the base of the Jisan Park Hill straight ahead to Seojong-ni. Up to the 1980s, this area was mostly rice fields and farm houses and there were not many homes between Songtan and Seojong-ni.

However, in the mid-1980s, the growth from Seojong-ni started to spread towards Songtan -- at the same time Songtan was spreading towards Seojong-ni. In the 1985, Songtan incorporated Seojong-ni myeon as Songtan City.

As the MSR-1 Bypass Road approached Seojong-ni, it passes the cutoff to the right for Route 340 which leads to an overpass over the Kyongbu line. After this, it then continues straight until it converges on a four way split. To the left it goes to new high-rise apartments built in the 1990s. The road turns right to go directly to the Seojong-ni train station. If you go straight, it will come to a three-way intersection where the MSR-1 Bypass (Shinseon Road) rejoins the original MSR-1 to Pyeongtaek.

JUNGANG-DONG AREA

To south from Pyeongtaek, the boundary is on the left of Route 1. In goes past the Songtan Industrial Zone and crosses Rte 1 at the northwest tip. It weaves north but as of Aug 2005, we are not certain of its northern boundary with Seojong-dong. (In research.) Route 1 (Jungang Highway 1-5) This connects the Ichung-dong area to the Jungang-dong area.

MSR-1 Road Continuation (Hyomyeong School Road) The road follows through the Jungang area and intersects with Route 1 which then follows the original MSR-1 route to Pyeongtaek Train Station. (NOTE: Hyomyeong Middle School and High School are located in Jangdang-dong, Pyeongtaek-myeon and not Jungang-dong.)


Map of Route 1 (Jungang Road 4) from Burkaksan Road to Songtan Branch City Hall (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)


Map of Route 1 (Jungang Road 4) past Seojong-ni area (Shinjang Road) (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)


Map of Route 1 (Jungang Road 4) past Seojong-ni area (Shinjang Road) (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)

SONGTAN-DONG AREA

The Songtan-dong southern boundary is Mokgok-dong, Pyeongtaek City. As one enters the Songtan area from Pyeongtaek, the boundary of Songtan-dong is on the left of the Route 1 (Jungang Road 4). The Songtan Local Industrial Zone is on the right side of Route 1. Immediately after the Songtan Industrial Zone, the boundary goes across Rte 1 along the northern edge of the industrial zone. Route 40 passes through this industrial area. If you follow, route 340 you will come to the Songtan Exit on Route 40. The area is Kaje-dong.

The boundary line goes up behind the Ichung-dong Munhwakonghweon Civic Center and Leports Playground where it meets the boundary of the Songbuk-dong and runs to the west.

Songtan Industrial Complex Road (Songtan Kongdandae Ro) This is the local Songtan Industrial Complex. It located at the southern end of the Songtan area boundary. As one is driving to Songtan from Pyeongtaek on Route 1 (Jungang Road 4), the Songtan Industrial Complex is on the right. The complex opened in 1990.


Map of Route 1 (Jungang Road 3) to Songtan Industrial Complex (2005) (Map at Songbuk-dong House Office)

SEOTAN-MYEON AREA

The Back Gate road (Doolittle Gate) starts in Seotan-myeon, but ends in Shinjang 1-dong. The Hill 180 Gate Road proceeds over the boundary into 4erSeotan-myeon and continues past the AFOC Gate which is also in Seotan-myeon. The road turns right and becomes Chang-dong Road to the south of the base. Along the northern Seotan-myeon side of the base and the area is covered in rice fields. Further to the north in Seotan-myeon, Rte 304 will be connected in the future, but it will not be close to the base perimeter. Presently the road to Seotan from Rte 1 is a two-lane road that passes the Seotan Myeon house office to the left and then winds through scattered factories and farm houses until one reaches the Seotan Elementary School area.

Chang-dong Road From the Hill 180 Gate, one continues past Jangdong straight until the AFOC Gate and turn right to follow the perimeter. At the end of the perimeter, the road continues down to the Hwanggui intersection where if one goes straight ahead, you are at Kumgak-ri. If you turn left, you will head to Godeok-myeon and Route 340. Turning right one heads towards Hwangguji in Seotan-myeon. The road runs parallel with the base perimeter with rice fields on both sides of the road. There is only one village about halfway down the perimeter.

In 1952, the Jinwi River was almost touching the northern perimeter and the 839th EAB had to build a levee to prevent flooding of the base. The Jinwi River meandered to the south end of the runway. In the 1970s, the river was redirected after the massive flooding in 1971 that had the low-lying areas of the base -- including the runway -- under water. The Jinwi River joined the Hwangguji River further north. Later flood control projects straightened out the "coiled snake" appearance of the Jinwi River. Now the land to the south is leveled rice fields with the road running straight from the Intersection at Kumgak-ri until the south end of the runway where you can see the over-run lights. The gate at this end of the base is blocked by ROK riot police. Directly ahead is the Jinwi River. There is a bridge that crosses the Jinwi River and leads to Yangkam-myeon and then to Seotan, Seotan-myeon.

If one turns left, there is a country road that follows the path of the Jinwi River south.


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