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This page is graphically intense with long load times due to photos. However, the photos and narratives by the men who served at Osan Air Base makes the wait well worthwhile. The opinions expressed are those of the author and in no way represents any official statement of Osan AB or the USAF. ![]()
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There are about 80 full-length songs to choose from. (NOTE: Song audio degraded due to space limitations, but adequate for computer listening.) |
OSAN AIR BASE AND THE SONGTAN AREA
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Acknowledgement: Special thanks to Ms. Jin Dal-lae and other personnel of the Jisan-dong Ward Office for taking the time to research and provide historical materials on Songtan and Pyongtaek. Many of the photographs of the early history of Pyeongtak are from the indepth history on the Pyeongtaek City History CD, "Pyeongtaek Si Sa." SHORT VERSION OF LOCAL AREA KOREAN HISTORYNeo-lithic Age |


Jinwi: Mangi-sa Temple (Dongcheon-ri, Jinwi-myeon): Iron Sakyamuni of Mangisa (Treasure No.567) We visited the Mangi-sa Temple in Jinwi-myeon in June 2005. The expanded meeting hall was still being constructed (left of stairs on upper level). The temple buildings were newly constructed with the same traditional motiff -- including the toilets. The parking lot is on the lowest tier with spring water -- which people come to fill jugs. The bell tower is on this level. The next level has the living quarters protected by two large friendly white dogs and a fish pond with koi (carp). Then the next level has the temple, meeting hall and other buildings. Old women were praying while others were polishing the brass candlesticks. Outside men were setting up a tent in preparation for some event. Inside the temple was the buddha. The Iron Sakyamuni of Mangi-sa is cast in iron, but now it has been gold plated with its right arm reconstructed in the 1960s. The display has changed from the picture above. Set before an altar with a background of other Buddhist dieties in gold and highlighted by a spotlight, it is quite striking. Along the ceiling are lanterns with the names of people and their wishes suspended. Along the walls are buddhas, lit by tiny lights instead of the traditional candles. The temple exterior is the traditional form with paintings of phoenix, dragon and storks. Along the exterior, we were intrigued by two other large statues of a multi-armed buddhist figure along with a "hotai" buddha which we had never seen at Korean temples before. The temple is about a 15 minute drive from Osan AB next to the Youth Hall and hiking trails to the mountains.
Revisited the site in Sep 2005 and there were some improvements with the teaching hall almost complete. Still very impressed with the renovations making this modern structure one of the best in Korea. Interestingly, as I approached the site, the white dogs started barking at me. A Korean Buddhist nun approached my daughter and sister-in-law -- and in Korean -- explained that the dogs bark at -- and bite ---anyone with wearing a hat, vest or with their hands in their pockets. My daughter and sister-in-law doubled over in laughter as I was standing there on the steps extending my hand to the dogs with a hat on my head, wearing a vest and had my hand in my pocket. No problem -- the dogs licked my hand. A visit is highly recommended.
In an attempt to distance themselves from the former Koryō court and rejuvenate the country, the rulers of the new Chosōn dynasty (1392–1910) severely curtail the practice of Buddhism and embrace Neo-Confucianism as the official state ideology. The systematic repression of Buddhist institutions, which were associated with the fall of the Koryō dynasty, and the withdrawal of official patronage of the religion leads to a decline in the number of Buddhist adherents and the production of Buddhist sculpture and painting. The commitment to Neo-Confucian educational and governmental policies, based on the influential school of Confucian philosophy and statecraft in China established by the Southern Song scholar Zhu Xi (1130–1200), is especially widespread among the newly influential yangban, or literati class, who come to dominate both the civil and military branches of government.Suwon, Jinwi-han and Pyeongtaek: In 757 (in the Shilla Dynasty), the Pyeongtaek area was named "Jinwihyeon." In 1431-1433, the records indicate the name of "Jinwi" is being resurrected for the area.In 1446, the reign of King Sejong (r. 1418–50) marks the cultural high point of the early Chosōn dynasty. One of Sejong's most notable achievements—motivated largely by the intent to further the education of the entire Korean populace—is the introduction in 1446 of the indigenous Korean writing system hunmin chōngūm (proper sounds to instruct the people), known today as han'gūl. This simple phonetic alphabet is perfectly designed for the writing of spoken Korean and, as such, is an ideal medium for the many who, unlike the yangban males, have neither the opportunity nor reason to become proficient in the more difficult Chinese writing system, initially adopted by the Koreans between the first century B.C. and the second century A.D. (Source: Met Time Line)
Jinwi-myeon (1402) (Source: Pyeongtaek History, Pyeongtaek Si Sa)In 1413 (Taejung 13th year), Yangwando-hae became part of Chungcheongdo.
In 1424 (Sejong 6th Year) Suwon was known as "Sunjungbu-gak." Jinwihan-myeon and Chikchan-myeon were under Sunjungbu-gak. By combining other administrative units, the area of Jinwihyeon became larger. Another combined was Yangseong-hyeon (Anseong-gun Yangseong-myeon). In June 1424 during King Sejong's reign, records state that there were few people in the area and numbers of divisions were few. There was a meeting between government inspectors to decide on the divisions.
Yangseong-hyeong Shi-do (Anseong-gun) (1423) (Source: Pyeongtaek History, Pyeongtaek Si Sa)In Nov 1430, records indicate a judge in Suwon settled a dispute between two parties. There was a call for additional judges for the area.
In 1433 (Sejong 15th year) Jinwihan was next Suwon. Parts of Pyeongtaek were administratively moved to Chunchongdo. (Source: Pyeongtaek History, Pyeongtaek Si Sa.)
In 1445, the government created the "Suwon-jinwi" area. (Source: Pyeongtaek History, Pyeongtaek Si Sa.)
Songtan: Chae Yu-Lim Shrine We visited the shrine in August 2005. It is located in Ojwa-gaol (hamlet), Ojwa-dong hidden away in the old village area behind the apartments across from the Songbuk Elementary School. On the hillside, there is a monument and shrine erected in 2001 to Chae Yu-Lim (1426-1471). The shrine is in good repair but to get to it, one must walk through an unmarked space between two houses and then through some high weeds while balancing on some stones to keep from walking in the mud. Outside the shrine is a stele. The plaque at the gate is in hangul with no English, so this does not appear to be a tourist attraction. The marker shows it was dedicated in 2001. The plaque gives the details of Chae Yu-Lim's life. Though interesting as a sidenote, it is not worth a special trip as the front gate is locked and you can only peek over the wall.Chae was born in 1926 and passed the government examinations in 1450. He became the Uijongbu governor in 1455. In 1464, he was selected to represent the King to the court of China to study the military situation and report to the King dealing with its vassal relationship with China. Chae recommended sending of Korean troops to China. In 1465, he returned to Korea. Due to intrigues within the court, attempts were made on his life, but he was saved by benefactors. He died in 1471 at the age of 45.
Suwon-Jinwi-Yangseong area (mid-1400s)
(Araetbubunae Suwon-Jinwi-Yangseong Dungi Boinda) (Pyeongtaek City)
In 1505 (Yeonsan-gun 11th year), Pyeongtaek was moved administratively under Kyonggido along with other changes.
After the establishment of the Chosōn dynasty, the Korean ceramics industry is reinvigorated, and white porcelain as well as punch'ōng wares are produced. While porcelain will continue to be manufactured throughout the dynasty, the production of punch'ōng ceases at the end of the sixteenth century, due in part to the devastating invasions of the peninsula led by the Japanese warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1536–1598). (Source: Met Time Line)
Imjin Invasions
Between 1592–1598, the greater prestige accorded civil over military officials in the early Chosōn period, attributable in part to the Chosōn rulers' promotion of Neo-Confucian values, engenders a chronic decline in the government's ability to protect itself against aggression from without or insurrection from within. By the end of the sixteenth century, after many years of neglect, the strength and preparedness of Korea's military forces have seriously deteriorated. It is at this juncture that in Japan the military leader Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1536–1598) brings centuries of internecine war to an end and assumes overall command of the Japanese archipelago's battle-hardened armed forces.
Faced by the potential peril posed by a vast and idle military, Hideyoshi conceives the notion of conquering Ming China and therefore requests that the Chosōn court allow his armies free passage through the Korean peninsula. Both common sense and Neo-Confucian loyalty to the Ming argue against Korean acquiescence, with the result that, in 1592 and again in 1597, desolating Japanese attacks are loosed against the peninsula. Striking from the south, the first attack sweeps north as far as P’yōng’yang (in present-day North Korea), but the second is stopped before advancing half that distance.The first invasionDuring the bitter years of Japanese occupation, large areas of southern Korea are thoroughly pillaged. Among the vast quantities of booty borne off to the Japanese archipelago are many treasures plundered from Buddhist monasteries, including paintings, sculptures, stone lanterns, and large bronze temple bells. Numbers of Korean potters are also carried off to Japan, where masters of the increasingly popular tea ceremony (chanoyu) have acquired a profound appreciation for Korea's punch’ōng ceramics. The labor of skilled Korean potters at Japanese kilns not only benefits the production of high-fired, glazed stonewares in the Kyushu region, but also significantly hastens the development of porcelain production in the archipelago. (Source: Met Time Line)
Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who established his hegemony in Japan in the latter part of the 16th century, had hoped but failed to receive cooperation from the Ming Dynasty in his attempt to make himself the new Shogun. Motivated in part also by a need to satisfy the perpetual land hunger of his vassals and find employment for restive samurai, he began making plans for the conquest of China. He first made his intentions to conquer China known to Mori Terumoto in 1586, then set about trying to realize it after he defeated the clans of Shimazu and Hojo. As the first step he intended to secure the Korean peninsula as an invasion route for his forces. After King Seonjo refused his offer of an alliance against China and military access for the Japanese troops, Hideyoshi launched a war against Korea in 1592 to secure passage to China.
The Japanese invasion of 1592 with 160,000 troops had great initial success mainly due to the element of surprise and its use of firearms. Two armies, under Konishi Yukinage and Kato Kiyomasa, landed on the 25th and 26th of May and marched north. Konishi reached the Han River south of Seoul and entered the city on June 12, just 18 days after landing at Busan. King Seonjo and his court withdrew first to Songdo, then Pyongyang and finally to Uiju , on the Yalu River.
Japanese troops ravaged many key towns in the southern part of Korea, took Pyongyang and advanced as far north as the Yalu and Tumen rivers. Korean marines and irregulars harassed the Japanese rear so no attempt was made by the Japanese to exploit their initial advantage.
In May and June, a small Korean fleet commanded by Yi Sun-sin destroyed several Japanese flotillas and wrought havoc on Japanese logistics. The Korean iron-roofed Geobukseon, or "turtle ships" were technologically superior in almost every way. In all perhaps 72 Japanese vessels were sunk by the end of June.
Imjin War Naval Battles
Sea Battle with Japanese with Adm Yi Dae Hwan in command. (Pyeongtaek City) (Source: Pyeongtaek History (CD), Pyeongtaek Si Sa)
Adm Yi Dae Hwan Grave (Pyeongtaek City) (Source: Pyeongtaek History (CD), Pyeongtaek Si Sa)
Adm Yi Dae Hwan Memorial Shrine. (Pyeongtaek City) (Source: Pyeongtaek History (CD), Pyeongtaek Si Sa)
Admiral Won Kyun (Hwan Gun) (1540-1597) was from Pyeongtaek. History relates that he was fired and Admiral Yi Sun-shin reinstated to save the day against the Japanese during the 1592 Invasion. (Pyeongtaek City) (Source: Pyeongtaek History (CD), Pyeongtaek Si Sa)
Along with Gen Kwon Yul and Admiral Yi Sun-shin, he was granted posthumous honors by King Seonjo in 1603. (Source: Historic Marker at Admiral Won Kyun's Tomb) However, some state that Won Kyun's (Hwan Gun) reputation was sacrificed in order to perpetuate the Yi Su Shin myth and elevate Yi Su Shin to almost mythic proportions. With the current penchant of historical revisionism -- and the elevation of Yi Su-shin to hero status with a statue of him on every elementary school playground, there may be some truth in this statement. His being granted posthumous honors by King Seonjo shows that there is a distinct possibility of another side of the story. However, most modern histories continue to paint Won Kyun as an incompetent commander who led the naval forces to ruin until Yi Su-shin saved the day.
Won Kyun (Hwan Gun) served as the magistrate of Puryong and other posts before being appointed to the position of Commander of Naval forces for Kyongsang-do Province. (Source: Historical Marker at Admiral Won Kyun's Tomb.)(NOTE: Bunroku: Korea states, "In the morning of April 12th, 1592, when a Japanese fleet was sighted, Won Kyun, the Right Naval Commander of Kyongsang, took it for a convoy on a trade mission. Towards the evening, a further report came of a great fleet and Won Kyun at last realized that something very serious was happening. His colleague, the Lef Naval Commander of Kyongsang, fled after scuttling his fleet and destroying all the armaments and provisions. Won Kyun in his turn sought saftey with only four ships. Thus the Japanese armada successfully disembarked its army on the Korean Peninsula without resistance.")According to the historical marker at his tomb states that he won the Battle of Okpo where he destroyed some thirty Japanese ships "with the help of Admiral Yi Sun-shin." (Source: Historical Marker at Admiral Won Kyun's Tomb)(NOTE: Current histories credit Admiral Shin with the victory with 28 battleships versus the 50 ships of Todo Takatora. This was the first victory of Chosun with Shin destroying 26 out of 50 Japanese ships leaving thousands of Japanese dead. TKDtutor.com states, "In the fifth month of 1592, assisted by the admiral of the Left Division of Chulla Province, Won Kyun, Admiral Yi Sun-Sin engaged the Japanese at Okpa. In his first battle, Admiral Yi Sun-Sin commanded 80 ships compared to the Japanese naval force of 800 ships. The Japanese were trying to re-supply their northern bases from their port at Pusan. By the end of the day Admiral Yi Sun-Sin had set fire to 26 Japanese ships and the rest had turned to flee. Giving chase, he sank many more, scattering the entire Japanese fleet. Several major engagements followed in which Admiral Yi Sun-Sin annihilated every Japanese squadron he encountered.")Won Kyun (Hwan Gun) won the Battle of Dangpo by "recruiting the dispersed Army inspite of the unfavorable situation in the early phase of the war." He scored victories at Happo, Chokchinpo, and other skirmishes. (Source: Historical Marker at Admiral Won Kyun's Tomb)(NOTE: Taekwondo Schools states, "The famous battle at Hansando is covered in Yi Pun’s biography of his uncle, Yi Sun-shin. "On the eights of Seventh Moon, hearing of the enemy’s departure from Yangsan toward Cholla province, Ch’ungmu-kong [posthumous title of Admiral Yi Sun-Sin], Yi Ok-ki [Commander of Cholla Right Naval Station], and Won Kyun [Commander of Kyongsang Right Naval Station] sailed to Kyonnaeryang (in Kosong), where they saw seven enemy vanguard vessels advancing in their direction, followed by many other crafts spread out all over the sea. Ch’ungmu-kong said, “Here the sea is narrow and the shallow harbour unfit for battle, so we must lure them out to the open sea to destroy them in a single blow.” He ordered his warships to pull back with feigned defeat till the jubilant enemy vessels pursued our fleet as far as the sea off Hansando, where they concentrated their total strength. Ch’ungmu-kong waved his flag, beat his drum and shouted the order to attack. In an instant, our warships spread their sails, turned round in a ‘Crane-Wing’ formation and darted forward, pouring down cannon balls and fire arrows on the enemy vessels like hail and thunder. Bursting into flame with blinding smoke, 73 enemy vessels were soon burning in a red sea of blood. This is called “The Great Victory of Hansando.’”However, he was defeated in the Battle of Chilcheonryang as he launched an attack in place of Admiral Yi Sun-shin who had been thrown in prison due to his disobedience to the orders of the Royal Court. In the Battle of Chilcheonryang in 1597, he was killed in action. (Source: Historical Marker at Admiral Won Kyun's Tomb) In current histories, Won Kyun, replaced Yi Sun-shin as Supreme Commander and within only months after taking command lost all but 12 ships (out of hundreds) to the Japanese.(NOTE: Other stories relate that he was beheaded for his defeat by the court, but other accounts state the Japanese beheaded him after he beached his fleet and fled. According to Wikipedia: Yi Sun-Shin, "The spy Yoshira continued to urge General Kim to send the Korean Navy to intercept a fleet of Japanese ships. When ordered to do so, Won Kyun gathered his 80 ships together and reluctantly set sail. This fleet was hardly recognizable as Yi Soon Shin’s former one. Won Kyun had eliminated all of the rules and regulations set up by Yi when he took command as well as purging the ranks of all who had been close to Admiral Yi. His inept manoeuvres almost destroyed the entire Korean fleet and alienated all his men. Also, through the spy Yoshira, the Japanese fleet had the necessary information about the Korean fleet. Consequently, this battle ended in a complete defeat for the Korean Navy, while Yi Soon Shin was being detained as a foot soldier. The Korean fleet scattered in a night storm and the main portion blundered upon the Japanese fleet the next day. On seeing the Japanese fleet, Won Kyun panicked and retreated. He beached his boats and took to the land but the Japanese overtook and beheaded him. The Korean fleet scattered and was mostly destroyed.".)
At the time when Yi Sun-shin lived, the Chosun Dynasty had to achieve political reforms and stabilize the livelihood of the people, while defending the country against the Yojin (Nu Zhen) Tribe and Japanese pirate raiders. Yi Sun-shin was regarded sometimes with jealousy in the process of protecting grass-roots people and sticking to the principles of reforms and lost some battles. He was removed from his duties three times and reinstated to the military service two times as a rank-and-filer. But for all this disgrace, Yi Sun-shin was reborn as a true hero who led the Chosun Navy to a myth of invincibility during the Hideyoshi Invasion (1592-1598 A.D.). Popular history states that Yi Sun-shin had a staff of many talented officers under his command. Some of them include Kwon Jun, a strategist, Na Dae-yong, a scientist, and many nameless people who assisted Na in building the turtle ships and making armory.
According to Admiral Yi Sun-shin, "1592: Japanese forces, under Toyotomi Hideyoshi, invade Korea. Yi tries to rally all the southern naval commanders, and so begins his troubles with Won Kyun, Commander of Kyongsang Right Naval Station. Yi finds nearly all of Won Gun's fleet destroyed, but brings the Admiral along with him and his combined fleet against the Japanese invaders. Yi has several naval victories, triggering Won Gun's jealousy of his compatriot. Yi leads several victorious attacks against the Japanese forces this year, and in one action is shot through the left shoulder, with the bullet lodging in his back. True to form, Yi refuses to acknowledge the wound until after the battle. Yi leads several more successful actions against the Japanese fleets, including his famous battle at Hansando.
"1595: After putting up with continual criticism from Won Kyun, Yi requests a transfer, but is refused. In this year, a Japanese double agent hatches a plot to get rid of Yi Sun Shin. He convinces the local military commanders that he knows when and on what ship a key Japanese commander will be sailing. The trap for Yi is set into motion two years later."
"1597: Yi finds himself caught in a difficult position. He is ordered to go out to sea to catch the returning Japanese official, whom the spy says is returning soon. Yet Yi knows it is a trap, but doesn't tell his superiors because he doesn't want to offend them, as they have believed the spy. At the same time, over the previous two years, Won Kyun had false messages defaming Yi's character to the court, and there is a growing suspicion that he is not loyal. Yi obviously fails to catch the returning Japanese commander, and is dismissed from his position by the King, handing over command to Won Kyun. Yi is taken to Seoul as a prisoner in a cage on an ox cart, and people line the streets to lament his detention, as he and his naval forces had struck fear in the Japanese military's hearts. Yi is released and placed as a regular soldier, and shortly thereafter his mother dies.
"Meanwhile, Won Kyun is defeated, much of his fleet destroyed and he is beheaded. Yi is returned to his post as Supreme Naval Commander of the Three Provinces, but finds only 12 vessels and 120 sailors remaining in tact from his previously victorious navy. Nonetheless, even outnumbered, Yi leads his fleet to a victory in Uldolmok (Myongnyand). That same year his third son, Myon, is killed while fighting the Japanese in Asan. (Bibliographic Source: NANJUNG ILJI: The War Diary of Admiral Yi Sun Shin. Translated by Ha Tae Hung, Edited by Sohn Pow Key. Published by Yonsei University Press, 1977; IMJIN CHANGCH'O: Admiral Yi Sun Shinļæ½s Memorials to the Court. Translated by Ha Tae Hung, Edited by Lee Chong Young. Published by Yonsei University Press, 1981.)
Visit to Tomb: In Sep 2005, I picked up a tourist map that showed its general location and went out there to see the site. The tomb of Admiral Won Kyun is located in the vicinity of the and easy to find -- if you know where to look. Besides the one sign that was half-hidden by a tree, there was no other marker in English. From the base, go straight past the Songbuk Elementary School and continue on until you pass the Korean National College for Rehabilitation and Welfare on your right. At the next four-way intersection, turn left. Go until you see a church on the left and large restaurant on the right. Turn left at the stop light BEFORE the church. Follow it back until a parking lot on the right. The building is the Admiral Won's study. There is a fishing pond on the left with a dirt road next to it. Follow the dirt road till the tree lined park at the base of the hill with the Admiral's tomb at the top.
My first impression was somewhat of a surprise as I was expecting the tomb and study to cover a much smaller area. It is well cared for and the setting would be a pleasant place to picnic -- and if you're a Korean-style fisherman, it might be a nice place to fish as well.
In July, the Wanli Emperor, responding to King Seonjo's request for aid, sent a small force of 5,000, which was not enough to fend off the Japanese. The Chosōn court's loyalty to the Ming is rewarded by the dispatch of Chinese armies to Korea, where they live off the land and frequently join in the fight against the Japanese.
Imjin War Naval BattlesHaving seen the token forces they had sent to Korea wiped out, China sent a much large force in January 1593 under Song Yingchang and Li Rusong (Yi Yosong). The expeditionary army had a prescribed strength of 100,000, made up of 42,000 from five northern military districts, a contingent of 3000 soldiers proficient in the use of firearms from South China, and far more from Siam and the Ryukyus. Seaports in China were closed for fear that the Wokou invasions of the 1550s would be repreated. In February 1593 a large combined force of Chinese and Korean soldiers attacked Pyongyang and drove the Japanese into southward retreat. Li Rusong personally led a pursuit with a force of 1000 cavalry. He was checked by a large Japanese formation outside Seoul and thoroughly routed at Byokje, Koyang-myeon.
Sosa Pyongi (Japanese Map): Japanese move through Pyongtaek area (Pyeongtaek City) (Source: Pyeongtaek History (CD), Pyeongtaek Si Sa)
Japanese Advance on Seoul: Japanese advanced through Ansan and split it forces to take Cheonan. The main force continued to the Pyeongtaek area where they were met by the Korean forces. (Pyeongtaek City) (Source: Pyeongtaek History (CD), Pyeongtaek Si Sa)
Imjin War Routes Pusan-Seoul
Osan-ni: Doksan Castle and Semadaeji are cultural assets of Osan City. This is the location where Captain Kwon Yeul, a governor of Chunra province, and 20,000 of his soldiers battled against a Japanese army lead by Gato Kiyomasa in July 1593 during the Yimjin war. The Japanese army laid seige to the castle, believing that there was little water available. Captian Kwon Yeul deceived the Japanese army into retreat by washing white horses with white rice on a hill to make them believe that there was plenty of water in the castle. (Source: Osan City.)
(NOTE: It should be noted that the method of the time was for the common people to flee the low-lying areas and hold up in mountain fortresses until the invaders had passed. As such whole cities were pillaged and ravaged as there was no one there to defend it. Rebuilding of the areas took a long time as the areas were completely razed. Even after the king returned to Seoul after the Japanese withdrew, he ordered the mountain fortresses rebuilt. This method of "defense" was continued until the construction of Hwaseong Castle in Suwon as the first "flat-land" castle in Korea.)
Chungeong-do -Pyeongtaek (1596) (Pyeongtaek City)
Chungeong-do -Pyeongtaek (1596) (Pyeongtaek City)These engagements ended the first phase of the war, and peace negotiations followed. The Japanese evacuated Seoul in May and retreated to fortifications around Busan. Some Japanese soldiers left the army and settled down in Korea, even marrying Korean women. The ensuing truce was to last for close to four years.
Imjin War Routes Pusan-SeoulBetween the initial onslaught of Japanese troops in 1592 and their final withdrawal in 1598, the invaders maintain themselves within massive fortifications erected along the peninsula's southern coast while they live off the backs of the Korean peasantry. At this juncture Hideyoshi, after suffering numerous setbacks, including logistical problems caused by Korean saboteurs and major naval defeats at the hands of the Korean navy, proposed to China the division of Korea - the north as a self-governing Chinese satellite, and the south to remain in Japanese hands. The peace talks were mostly carried out by Konishi Yukinaga, who did most of the fighting against the Chinese. The offer was promptly rejected.
The interlude
In the summer of 1593 a Chinese delegation visited Japan and stayed at the court of Hideyoshi for more than a month. The Ming government withdrew most of its expeditionary force, but kept 16,000 men on the Korean peninsula to guard the truce. An envoy from Hideyoshi reached Beijing in 1594. Satisfied with Japanese overtures, the imperial court in Beijing dispatched an embassy to invest Hideyoshi with the title of "King of Japan" on condition of complete withdrawal of Japanese forces from Korea. Most of the Japanese army had left Korea by autumn 1596; a small garrison was nevertheless left in Busan. The Ming embassy was granted an audience with Hideyoshi in October 1596 but there was a great deal of misunderstanding about the context of the meeting. Hideyoshi considered himself the victor in the war, and was enraged to find out that he was to be installed as a tribute-bearing vassal. He demand among other things, a royal marriage with the Wanli Emperor's daughter, the delivery of a Korean prince as hostage, and four of Korea's southern provinces. Peace negotiations soon ceased and the war entered its second phase. Early in 1597 both sides resumed hostilities.
The second invasion
Soon after the Chinese embassy was given safe conduct home, 200 Japanese ships carrying a force of 140,000 were sent to Korea. The court in Beijing appointed Yan Hao as supreme commander of an initial mobilisation of 38,000 troops from as far away as Sichuan, Zhejiang, Huguang, Fujian, and Guangdong. These were assisted by a naval force of 21,000 men. Ray Huang has estimated the combined strength of the Ming army and navy at the height of the second campaign at 75,000 men.
The second invasion differed from the first in that the Japanese met with stronger resistance. They pushed to just south of Seoul in August 1597 but were turned back by a large Korean and Ming force that winter. As the Japanese retreated south through Gyeongsang-do they burned Gyeongju and destroyed and stole much of the historic and artistic legacy of Shilla.
Thereafter they were on the defensive. Naval operations, already deemed important in the first campaign, had a decisive influence on the outcome of the second. Following the loss of Hansan Island , Yi Sun-sin, who had been sent to jail, was reinstated. With his return the Koreans soon regained control over the waters of the straits, forcing the Japanese to land men to take defensive positions along the coast from Ulsan in the east to Suncheon in the west. On September 16, 1597, Yi led 12 ships against 133 Japanese ships in the Myongnyang Straits. The Koreans sank 31 enemy ships and forced a Japanese retreat. In November, the Japanese fleet was lured by Yi into a tide-race where the oar-driven turtle ships caused wholesale destruction.
By early 1598, the Japanese forces, hemmed in by Korean and Chinese armies, found themselves unable to break out of the south despite fierce fighting. The Wanli Emperor sent a Chinese fleet under artillery expert Chen Lin in May 1598 this naval force saw action in join maneovres with the Koreans. Konishi Yukinage warned that the Japanese position in Korea was untenable. Hideyoshi in turn ordered the withdrawal of close to half of the invading force, leaving mostly Satsuma warriors under Shimazu clan member commanders. The remaining Japanse forces fought fiercely, turning back Chinese attacks on Suncheon and Sacheon. The invasion was suddenly abandoned only when news of Hideyoshi's death on 18 September 1598 reached the Japanese camp late in Ocotber.
The Seven-Year War left deep scars in Korea. Farmlands were devastated, irrigation dikes were destroyed, villages and towns were burned down, the population was first plundered and then dispersed, and tens of thousands of skilled workers (celadon ware makers, craftsmen, artisans, etc) were either killed during the war or kidnapped to Japan as captives to help Japanese develop their crafts. In 1598 alone, the Japanese took some 38,000 ears as horrific trophies. The long war reduced the productive capacity of farmlands from 1,708,000 kyol to 541,000 kyol. Pillage and foraging by Chinese troops only added to the unmitigated tragedy of a war from which the peninsula kingdom never fully recovered.
Imjin War Return RoutesFollowing the war, relations between Korea and Japan had been completely suspended. Japan was cut off from the technology of continental Asia. After the death of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, however, negotiations between the Korean court and the Tokugawa shogunate were carried out via the Japanese lord (Daimyo) on Tsushima. In 1604, Tokugawa Ieyasu, needing to restore commercial relations with Korea in order to have access to the technology of the mainland again, met Korea's demands and released some 3000 captive Koreans. As a result, in 1607, a Korean mission visited Edo, and diplomatic and trade relations were restored on a limited basis. (Source: Seven Year War)
Though unrecognized by modern Korean history, the Daimyo of Tsushima remained in Possession of Pusan, and from 1623, Korea agreed to send envoys and tribute to Japan, although conveyed at the expense of the Japanese. It is unnecessary to point out how much this war intensifed Korean hatred of the Japanese. (Source: The Republic of Korea, W.E. Reeve, 1963, p14) References as late as the 19th Century indicate that large areas of Pusan contained a large Japanese population.Seoul: After its founding as the Choson capital in 1392, Seoul grew slowly but steadily. Its growth came to a halt, however, in the late 1500's when the Japanese invaded Korea. In 1592, the Japanese general and warlord, Hideyoshi, invaded Korea, after Korea refused to allow his forces to march through Korea to attack China. For six years, the Japanese burned and looted the country. Seoul was ruined and shrank in size. The royal residence of Kyongbokkung was burned by commoners angered by the king's decision to flee north. This symbol of royal power was not rebuilt until 300 years later.Korea had barely begun to recover from the Japanese assaults when the Manchus, people from northeastern Asia, overran the peninsula in 1627 and 1636. Once again Seoul was destroyed. (SITE NOTE: Remember that the Choson Dynasty was founded by the Pro-Ming faction and the Ming Chinese had come to its aid during the Imjin Invasions.) Korea was called on to aid Ming China against the Manchus, but as a result suffered two Manchu invasions, and in 1637 was forced to promise to renounce allegiance to the Ming emperor and to send tribute to the Manchu court (Yuan Dynasty). This tribute was progressively lightened, being "rather a percentage paid for license to trade than a symbol of vassalage." The Manchus as the ruling dynasty in China continued to invest each Korean king and a new fillip to Chinese learning in Korea was given by Chinese refugees from the Tatars. During the remainder of the seventeenth century until the early nineteenth century Korea enjoyed a period of relative peace, but fear of foreign powers had become so great that she completely shut herself off from the rest of the workld. Foreign trade, except for a small volume with China and Japane, was discouraged; foreign travel and visits by foreigners were prohibilted. (Source: The Republic of Korea, W.E. Reeve, 1963, p14)
Natural disasters, including droughts, famine, tidal waves, hurricanes, and earthquakes, brought further hardships to Korea during this time. Yet these natural disasters brought people to the capital seeking relief in the form of rice. Since the government had the power to collect and store rice, it was in a position to distribute food to starving peasants. The government set up a system to give food in exchange for labor. It had built rice storage facilities along the Han River. Around these storage areas that lay outside the city walls of Seoul, commercial activity grew up and people built homes.
After the Japanese and Manchu invasions, the government set out to rebuild Korea. As part of their effort, it shut its borders to foreigners. Both China and Japan were taking similar steps in the 1600's, isolating themselves from outsiders just at the time that Europeans were beginning to sail their trading ships into East Asian waters. Korea's isolation would be so complete that it became known in the West as the Hermit Kingdom. (Source: Korean Society.)
The Manchu invasions of the Korean peninsula and the subsequent establishment of the Qing dynasty in China during the first half of the seventeenth century shaped the Chosōn elite's view of its own culture. Scholars and officials increasingly take an interest in Korea's history, geography, agriculture, literature, and art. The new strain of research, now commonly termed sirhak, or "practical learning," is in vogue through much of the two centuries between 1600 and 1800. It is manifested in practical legislation that seeks to control and enhance the government's bureaucratic workings and the lives of the general population, especially the peasants. (Source: Met Time Line)
Throughout the centuries Choson merchants and leaders engaged a in limited contact with Japan and a slightly more expanded contact with China. So intense was the isolationism within Choson however, that when the first recorded Europeans landed on the peninsula in 1628 (three Dutch sailors who were shipwrecked off Cheju Island), they were not allowed to leave. They were treated well by their rescuers and two of them were later killed defending Choson against the Manchurians. The third took the Korean name Pak Yon and lived his full life in the capitol at Seoul.
Similar treatment was given to survivors of another Dutch shipwreck in 1653. Though 15 years later some of them were able to, the maritime world understood that if you went aground in Corean waters you would disappear for eternity. This, like the pre-Columbus tales of falling off the edge of the flat planet, added an even more ominous mystery to a little known kingdom. (One of the survivors from the 1653 shipwreck was Hendrick Hamel, who later wrote about his adventures in Corea, providing European readers with their first glimpse of what was becoming the Hermit Kingdom.) (Source: Home of Heroes: Korea 1871)
Jinwi Yangkyo Baejido
Pyeongtaek Baejido
Jinwi Government Office and Pyeongtaek Government Office. Unknown when the government offices were first built, but the offices were reorganized in 1680s after complaints of abuses of power by the yangban over the common people. The government offices were to enhance the bureaucratuc controls to benefit the common people. (Pyeongtaek City) (Source: Pyeongtaek History (CD), Pyeongtaek Si Sa)
Pyeontaek: In 1596 (Seonjo 29th year) Pyeongtaek-hyon had been destroyed by the Japanese invasion. There was a movement to rebuild the area and it was aligned under Chiksan.
In 1610 (Kwanghae-gun 2nd year), the rebuilding of Pyeongtaek-hyeon started. The Pyeongtaek area contained Chiksam-han and Kyongyong-bo. (Pyeongtaek City) (Source: Pyeongtaek History (CD), Pyeongtaek Si Sa)
The Monument to the Enforcement of the Dae Dong Law in Sosa dong, Pyeongtaek was set up in the 10th year (1659) of King Hyo Jong to make the enforcement of the Dae Dong law known to all people and to applaud his virtue of caring for people. It was after the Dae Dong law, which was enforced in Hoseo region to remove the imbalance of public labor and the unfairness of compulsory labor when Kim Yuk was working as the governer of Chungcheong Province in the period of King Hyo Jong of the Chosun Dynasty, produced good results. The Dae Dong law is a tax payment system which removed the evil practice of imposing each province a tribute in their local specialties, and reformed the system to the one by which people can pay tribute in rice. After the enforcement of this law, the imbalance of public labor and the unfairness of compulsory labor were removed and private commercial transactions also came to progress smoothly . The Dae Dong law was enforced from the 41th year (1608) of King Sun Jo to the 31th year (1894) of King Go Jong. (Source: Pyeongtaek City.)
Paengyeodo (1767-1776) (Pyeongtaek City)Pyeongtaek: During the same period, the guesthouse of Paengsung hyeon during the Chosun Dynasty was originally built on a small-scale but later rebuilt to a large-size during the period of Hyeon Jong (1659~1674). It was repaired in the 36th year of Yeong Jo (1760) and then repaired again in the 1st year of Soon Jo (1801).
Paengsang-eup Guest House (Pyeongtaek City)(NOTE: The building is located in Paengsung-eup, Pyeongtaek City. At present, the building attached to the main gate and the main building remain, and among the total of nine rooms, three rooms are Jungdaecheong and three rooms on either side of it, respectively, are Dongseoheon. Jungdaecheong, in which the memorial plate symbolizing the King was kept and the head of the district bowed down to the plate twice a month, is a building highly formalized by framing Choikgong on a thick circular column and making the roof higher than that of Dongseoheon. Dongseoheon was used as a guesthouse in which public officials from other districts stayed. The main gate consisted of one room at the central part of the building attached to the main gate was decorated with a monitor roof. Structure carved in the form of the dragon head were put on both ends of the ridge of the roof of Jungdaecheong and the main gate. They showed the dignity of the administrative office.) (Source: Pyeongtaek City.)
Kyonggi-do (18th Century) (Pyeongtaek City)
Pyeongtaek-hyeon (After 18th Century) (Pyeongtaek City)
Pyeongtaekhyeon (mid-18th Century) (Pyeongtaek City) (Source: Pyeongtaek History (CD), Pyeongtaek Si Sa)Education in Korea was conducted on the Confucian system. The pupils first entered the sohtang, or private common school found in every town and village, where they were mainly taught to read and write Chinese ideographs and the Chinese classics. For a more advanced course, they might go to a higher school, or han-gyo, in every district; and finally to the Imperial Academy in Seoul. As in China, the purpose of education was the development of the examination system for civil servants, through which learned men attained political power and social prestige. The basis of all learning was the great compendium of neo-Confucianism, the Hsing li Ta-chu'an. The Korean language remained the language of the people, but the scholar-governing class was contemptuous of it. To this day education in South Korea is to some extent influenced by the persistence of the Confucian ethos. Its system of ethical rules requireing a fixed pattern of life discouraged change, innovation, or progress; individuality and originality tended to be subordinated to official doctrines; the whole emphasis was on literary pursuits and practical matters. Above all, manual labor was despised. (Source: The Republic of Korea, W.E. Reeve, 1963, p86) As can be seen the society was still structured with the Yangban or scholarly elite class at the top, followed by the craftsmen, tradesmen, and farmers in the middle and the despised jailers, butchers, boatmen, coolie laborer, etc. at the bottom.
Seoul: In Seoul during the 18th century, Korean kings ignored the advice of conservative aristocrats who held much political power as well as land and began to implement various reforms. The kings redistributed some land to peasants and eased the tax burden on commoners. To bypass opposition from the ruling elite, King Chongjo, who ruled from 1776 to 1800, began to walk outside the city walls and listen to the concerns of the people themselves. He hoped thereby to prove the merit of his ideas and overcome aristocratic opponents. This practice also reflected the Confucian idea of the ruler whose job was to provide good government to his people. Chongjo's efforts to reach out to the people led to a system of petitioning. Commoners gathered at the gate used by the royal family and handed out petitions detailing abuse of power by royal officials or requesting attention on other issues.
During this period, commercial activity increased in and around Seoul. Ports sprang up along the Han River, and local trade flourished. Each port handled a specific product such as rice or lumber. Despite Korea's isolation, various imported products were available, including leather goods from the Middle East and textiles from Europe, China, and Japan. Meanwhile, the government eased regulations that had limited commercial activity. Private merchants and artisans competed for business with companies that had long held official licenses from the government.
Commerce led to growth outside the city walls. Areas that had once been used for agriculture were turned into building sites for stores and restaurants. In time, these "suburbs" were absorbed into the city of Seoul itself. Economic growth transformed Seoul from merely a center of government into a center of economic and cultural activity. With the rise of a wealthy merchant class came a challenge to the traditional Confucian social order. According to the Confucianist world-view, scholars ranked at the top of society, followed by peasants and artisans, with merchants at the bottom. In Confucian thought, merchants made profits off the labor of others and not by their own hands. In Seoul, however, wealthy merchants lived as well or better than landholding aristocrats. Gradually, their financial successes forced some adjustments in social attitudes although scholarship continued to be seen as the most noble pursuit. (Source: Korean Society.)
Culturally, a similar strain of interest in things Korean finds expression in works of art that explore native vernacular, geography, and social customs. Fiction written in han’gūl (Korean writing) explores nontraditional themes that fall outside of yangban (literati) interests, and are often authored by people of the lower classes. Paintings of the eighteenth century depicting famous sites in Korea and the daily lives of people—known as "true-view" landscape painting and genre painting—evidence the vibrant and "Korean" artistic expressions of this period. Ceramic production, having suffered setbacks following major Japanese and Manchu invasions of the peninsula, reemerges with fresh creativity by the second half of the seventeenth century and through the eighteenth century.
Attention to Korea's history and culture does not mean indifference to foreign stimuli. On the contrary, there is enduring, if selective, interest in and relations with the world outside, alongside discoveries of native potentials. Diplomatic and cultural exchanges with China and Japan continue, despite ambivalence and mistrust, and contribute significantly to shaping Chosōn culture. Sporadic and largely accidental contact with the West sparks the two worlds' awareness of each other. (Source: Met Time Line)
Yi Sung Hyun, among the first Catholic converts in 1783 (Pyeongtaek City) (Source: Pyeongtaek History (CD), Pyeongtaek Si Sa)